Touareg :: 2008 - CEL Comes On / P0327 And P0441 Codes
Jun 14, 2015
Just bough a new (to me) Touareg yesterday...2008, 75k miles, good service history. Drove home from the dealer no problems. Driving that same night (last night) the CEL comes on. Ok, I've had VWs before, CELs don't really make me panic.
Get home and scan the car and it comes back with P0327 (knock sensor 1 circuit low) and P0441 (evaporative emissions system incorrect purge flow).
I have a feeling it's got less than premium gas in it....I'm gonna throw some octane booster in the remaining 1/2 tank and see what happens. Anything else I should do?
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Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac grand am coupe GT with the 6 cylinder engine. It has been a very good car to me. I really like it and it "fits" me well ... and yet... it is now testing me. About a year ago the check engine light came on. The codes were P0327 and P0336 for bad Knock sensor and Crank sensor respectively. The were both replaced multiple times, the light still stays on... and the codes are still coming up. I have have been to different experts, and after the computer resets... there they are again. (someone even thought that the computer needed updated codes for those sensors... so he installed them.. with no better results). The code P1189 for an oil switch is now coming up too.Here in California, the car cannot pass smog with the check engine light on... so I'm not able to re-register it, and I don't think I can sell it for much because no one can register it now. So, what this can be? Is there some common thread between all these sensors (or a recall of some kind) that would explain this? My fear is that the computer will have to be changed at about $1000. My even greater fear is that that will still not solve the problem.
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I have a 97 F350 5.8 with E40D trans. I bought the truck with it shifting hard thinking maybe a simple filter/fluid change would fix it. It may have worked a little but did not fix the issue. There were 3 or 4 codes that I have already cleared up with new parts. I am still getting a 327 (something with EGR?) and 629 (Converter clutch control circuit failure). These show up in KOEO and KOER self test. The O/D does not flash ( bulb does work).
Parts that have been replaced: VSS, MLPS, new connector going into solenoid pack (tabs were broken), TPS. Removed the trans wiring harness and there is no damage or loose connections. When I replaced the solenoid connector I noticed there was some trans fluid in the connection. I cleaned it the best I could and reinstalled with dielectric grease.
The truck runs fine and shifts in and out of every gear fine its just shifting hard. If I unhooked the battery it will shift perfect for 5-10 minutes but then the hard shifting returns.
The only other thing I can find with my research is maybe the solenoid pack needs replaced. I figured if I take it somewhere they are going to want to rebuild/replace transmission. It seems like it can't be something very major since it will shift fine when reset...
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So one day when I was driving, the CEL comes on, and then I go to autozone to get my free diagnosis. I got codes: P0441 and P0171
My engine is running fine and everything else seems to be in order. However, I have to get a new canister purge valve and new oxygen sensors, in order to be in the clear.
For the Oxygen sensors, I have AN IDEA of where they're located; somewhere underneath the car, by the catalytic converter (the converter is in between the two connectors, apparently). I have yet to do this and would like some opinions on what to do for it.
For the Canister Purge Valve, I have no clue where to look. I pop open the hood and I notice a diagram with labels. Great, but there are just too many other pieces to look at...I do not know if it is visible as soon as I pop open the hood, or if I have to dig deeper, or even if I have to remove the fancy plastic thing that covers the engine.
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I recently picked up a 2001 Prius to learn more about it. I've been trying to resolve the following codes: p0440, p0441, p0446. I used a new OEM gas cap & did a smoke test and smoke is coming out of the perimeter of the filler mouth and what seems to be a plastic ring with slots around the mouth.
My question is this:
1. Is this normal?
2. Does this indicate that the filler neck is bad?
3. Does this indicate that the charcoal canister is bad?
4. A bad VSV by charcoal canister?
5. Is it something else?
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Car - 2004 Accent auto.- 1.6l - 97K miles
After battling a few months to get my check engine light - fault code P0304 to go off I finally remedied the problem with 3 bottles/fill ups of STP Gas treatment. This was about 1500miles ago. I go to DMV Inspection station and sat for an hour then wait anther 20minutes for the test to end and was given the big fat rejection sticker, she failed because the check engine light came on with fault codes P0304 & P0441.
Now what the heck happened here? Just bad luck and coincidence or did their test set it off? Anyway the P0441 code is new and researched it is the Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Valve. Okay where is it, the HMA manual is not specific? In relation to the intake manifold where is it? Easy fix? And will this solve my P0304 code?
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2003 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 165k miles – Got all of the above codes. Obviously checked gas cap and no issues there. Checked both VSV underhood and had clicking. Checked VSV at canister under vehicle and no clicking. Used a Dremel oscillating tool with flat metal blade to cut off rusted Philips head screw. Removed VSV and checked by jumpering to battery. No clicking, but did draw a tiny arc. That told me it was “trying” to actuate. Sprayed PB Blaster into hose fittings of VSV and mowed the lawn. Came back to VSV and it now actuated – but very slowly and delayed. Sprayed electrical contact cleaner in hose fittings with the VSV jumpered and open. Activated VSV several times and sprayed contact cleaner through the hose fittings several times – both directions. VSV began to active quickly. Put VSV back on vehicle. SES light went out by itself after it ran the EVAP test.
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I've been having P0441 & P0455 codes showing up on my 2007 Corolla CE. My code reader tells me the areas that need checked. But, I can't find the vacuum switching valve on it so that I can check it for problems. Somebody said it's under the hood, but I can't seem to locate it.
Is is possible that it's mounted on the vapor canister (which I have located above the rear axle)?
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Shop said o2 sensor and they just want to replace one. I can get universals for around 80 each, will they work if this is in fact the problem?
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2002 CE with 120K miles two months ago. the car seemed fine and drives fine too. After a while I found out that the seller had removed the "check engine" light, so I read the error code by a instrument and I got these errors. 171,420,441. And I noticed that the engine burn a quarter oil every 200 miles on long drives!I checked the VSV valve and connected hoses but no problem there. Since the car has just 120K miles, I'm not sure that the piston rings are worn out! I'm wondering what could cause all of these errors?
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Just tried to leave for work and my check engine light came on. Luckily I just got a scangauge and the error codes are P0441 and P0445. I checked online and for regular Prius is says it could be the fuel system, fuel cap, etc. I'm scared to drive it now and wonder if I should call Toyota Care to tow my car to service.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with 90,300 miles. Last week check engine light came on and mechanic said it was P0440 and charcoal canister needed replacement. Did the repairs and 20 miles and two days later CEL is on again. Take it back to mechanic and codes this time are P0441 and P0446. I'm told I need a new gas cap, so it's replaced with new one from dealer. 15 miles later, CEL comes back on and I return to mechanic. This time it's reading all three codes, but they can't find anything wrong. The only parts not replaced are the vacuum seal valves, which mechanic says test as good. They reset lights and 15 miles later, the check engine light is back on. My mechanic is baffled. What the problem could be or what they should check? Car drives fine, but light coming on is annoying.
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I have a 06 treg V6 and the code is p0441 I have replaced the evap canister as recondmended on club treg and the code came back.
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Currently throwing both P0441 and P2096, just prior to this I was also throwing P0442.
Read around on web and decided the simplest thing it could be would be the fuel cap, may as well start there. Owners manual even recommends changing at 90k. Got a replacement from advanced (which is supposed to be built to OEM specs), re-set battery light stayed off, attempted to pass emissions but a few systems were "not ready". Was good for 80ish miles. Light came back on throwing P0441 and P2096. I re-tightened fuel cap and re-set battery, light went off.
Did some maintenance; spark plugs, air filter, oil/filter change and replaced the leaky oil pan. Keep putting on miles hoping to get to the recommended 200 mile mark before stopping by the emissions testing facility, 105 miles after re-set same codes came back. I'm almost positive I replaced a o2 sensor 2ish years ago for emissions. Also there is an obvious exhaust leak which could be a culprit. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a weak battery can cause problems with fuel pressure... not sure if it's true or not but for what it's worth I do know my battery is on it's last leg.
I'd like to avoid unnecessary fixes, it's only my winter car so as long as it's nothing major I'm not going to dump money in it. I'm going to take a guess and say the check engine light is coming on when these systems become ready. Plan is to try this re-set one more time hope for the best and if not replace exhaust or at least repair leak. Not sure on my next step for P0441 though. Vehicle is a 2004 Hyundai accent with 86k on it.
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I have a 2002 Echo with 185K miles on it and i have a 2003 Echo with 101K miles on it, Both have P0446 P0440 P0441 codes coming up on them, the 2002 I replaced the gas cap, VSV valve and the rubber hoses from the throttlebody to the hard plastic line in the engine bay, and the 2003 I only replaced the rubber lines in the engine bay.
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Engine light came on a week ago, finally made it in to get the code pulled yesterday : P0441
From reading on this site, thinking its a faulty purge valve.
I have found pics of its location on an 04, but cant seem to find it on my 08 2.7L.
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So a letter history about the car and this car is a friends car. They owned the car and drove without changing the timing belt when the car hit 109k. So the timing belt snapped and they went out and bought a timing belt and also the timing belt kit with the pulleys and all. They installed it.. didnt turn over or what so ever.
They towed the car to us which we own an auto repair shop. We knew the valves was bent and so we tore off the heads send them off to have them put new valves and etc etc.. We put the car back together for them and now the car runs fine. They pick it up and about a few days later they brought it back due to a check engine. It threw the code:
16711 - Knock sensor 1-G61 Signal too low. (p0327)
now we replaced both knock sensors and when they came and got the car... the check engine light came back one showing the same code. We cleared it out and the next day it came back on showing the same code Again! So now we don't have a clue why that code keeps coming up because we replaced both sensors with a new one. Any clue why the code keeps popping back up?
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I replaced the water pump. Huge problem. I will get rid of the car before I replace that again. But, it is replaced and the car is functioning.
Unfortunately, the check engine light remains on and I still get p0327(knock sensor) code and car has a slight ruff run.I have the Actron code reader(fairly cheap, but effective) and it will clear the vsc but not the check engine. Upon restart, the check engine light reappears in 7 seconds followed by the vsc symbol. This has been for a week now. So I have been dreading tackling this project next. But I figure if I'm doing this, I better change the rear plugs and maybe the rear coil packs as well.
Don't want to do this, but whether I do it or send it to the dealership, once is all I'm gonna do. I say all of this and yesterday, the check engine light goes away on its own and full power is back and ruff run gone.
I still plan to go into the engine this year because my car just hit 120,000 miles and i have to change my plugs. If it recurs, I will change it all. I will just wait. Only going in once.
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So, I have my check engine light and the code is p0327 (knock sensor). Clear cose but it returns. Going on for 3 days now. I was suspicious that something else is going on. I also remembered I've been using a little more antifreeze in the reservoir. So, today I needed to watch the coolant. I ran the car for an hr and I found a lot. Red coolant on my belt, the back passenger side of my engine and it was caked on with coolant. I think the water pump is going up.
I was concerned that coolant was also leaking from the intake manifold but it's only the right side, so I'm pretty sure the coolant is being slung around from the belt. I rinsed the engine down and the knock sensor code went away. Temporarily, until more coolant got back there. Do you think I will need to replace the knock sensor along with the water pump or should the sensor work ok after some intense cleaning after the water pump replacement?
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I was told that these are affiliated to a problem with the air pump (not the one you pump the tire up with) -- Need to locate the air pump? Hoping to find a loose hose or something I can fix.
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