Suburban :: 2007 5.3L - V8 To V4 Switching Has Slight Vibe
Nov 27, 2011
In V8 mode the engine runs smooth but as soon as it switches to V4 I get a noticeable vibe, the same kind of vibe when an engine is missing, and that slightly different sound that sounds like a miss. It never stays in V4 at steady speeds, instead quickly switches back to V8 because V4 can't hold speed. All this and the fact my mileage sucks makes me think I'm down a cylinder. Everyone else says their switching goes unnoticed whereas I can hear and feel mine. Is there a simple way I can check if I have cylinders missing or even pinpoint which ones? Does the V4 operation always use the same cylinders? I've hooked up OBD and that says nothing.
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"step on gas, truck feel like it is pulling a house, slight buck, but with more gas it moves, it has good presure out the exhast, all wheels are turning freely, engine idles great has lots of power,"
tested, cyl pressure, fine
check engine timing, fine
made sure all wheels spin freely, fine
check all fluids, fine
slight pinging sound can be heard, from time to time from center of truck. I'm thinking torque convertor. Feels like engine is binding only when you put it in gear.
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1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
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I have the 5.3L FLEX Fuel with 98K miles. I have purchased this 2nd hand and having a slight idle stumble when in park as well as in drive @ a stop light...etc. If i am under way, the vehicle runs flawlessly. When i am idling with the brake on or in park, there is a slight stumble that is driving me crazy. I have replaced the high dollar IRIDIUM plugs but did not replace the wires...they looked fine. I did clean the throttle body. I get fuel from different places and it does not make a difference. I have not cleaned the fuel system professionally but I have used OTC additives such as SeaFoam. No codes are exhibited on a diagnostic computer or any updates available for that matter.
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Own a 2007 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix). Anyway, do a lot of driving on gravel roads, and the rear window is always covered in mud or dust. Any type of deflector available to alleviate this ?
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I have a 2007 Vibe. My niece strattled a dead deer on the highway and I have a rattle noise coming from the rear right tire. Only think is that it's not constant? 9 out of 10 times it's there when I start the car but as drive for 30 or 40 minutes, or longer, it goes away? I had my Uncle look under the car and all he said was that he saw deer hair.
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It seems the LS460 cannot go DIRECTLY from "the engine is running with the infotainment system on" to "the engine is turned off, but the infotainment system remains on".
It seems as soon as you turn off the engine, the infotainment system cuts off immediately, dropping any bluetooth calls, music, or anything else.
You must press the Start button once more to get the accessories to come back (after a delay... since the wheel and seats have to retract once again... seems wasteful to me).
The only workaround I found, is to put the transmission into Neutral, then cut the engine... then put the transmission into Park.
This method will leave the accessories ON after the engine is cut, BUT it will not apply the automatic parking brake (if you use the feature).
It seems like a sludgy workaround... since I ALWAYS leave the parking brake in automatic mode, so I'd like it to engage every time the car is parked... which doesn't seem possible if I use this workaround.
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Chevrolet Tahoe 2007
This service light came on 2 weeks ago. The next day, the car seemed to be trying to switch from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive. Took it to the dealer who found nothing. We drove the car for 2 days without any service lights coming on. Then the switching ( 2 to 4 WD) started again, but this time the transmission would not go above 1st gear. Pulled over and turned off the engine, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Dead. A few minutes later, we go it back home. Had CAA tow it back to the dealer. It's been a week and they found nothing. They are looking for engine codes that would explain the problem.
Is this an electrical problem or a sensor issue?
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I started to drive with my windows open and just noticed a noise every time I switch gears, and specially when I'm going up on hills or streets, the noise is just for 1 second maybe 1.5 and when I'm going up on long and elevated streets is longer specially on 3rd gear, I just did the oil change on my car a couple weeks a go (quacker state 5W20 , 3 1/2 quarts) and I was hoping to fix the "noise" with that, but is not......the "noise" is like a "click click click click" like valves hitting .......I can't say for how long the engine was doing that "noise", cause I just noticed after driving with my windows open
My car have 125,000 kilometers and the timing belt was change at 108,000 kilos, no A/C on the car
Take a look on 2:00 minutes, right after the guy release the pedal, the "click click click" noise : Sunet ciudat motor Hyundai Accent 1,4 DOHC - YouTube
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I'm having an issue with my Nav system. I'm not sure if its going out or if it's due to the cold weather but it doesn't immediately come on when I start the car. At some point while I'm driving I'll notice that it's on and working but it seems to also be intermittently switching between the day and night time screen mode. How to check to determine if it needs to be replaced or if there is a fix?
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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My '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rear end (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rear end replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "governors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership.
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Have a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban. The voltmeter reading varies from 13 to 16 volts, no obvious reasons for changes in the reading. Chevy says there are a number of different inputs that determine what the reading should be, such as battery temp, etc. On older cars you could use the voltage to determine when something was going wrong with the electrical system. Other that a complete loss of alternator output, can you use the reading to diagnose electrical problems, such as a bad or dying battery?
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One side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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I just purchase a new 2012 Lexus LS460 L AWD. Between 35 to 40 MPH I feel a slight vibration in the front end of the car. Once I get above 40 MPH the vibration or wobble goes away. Could it be a tire out of balance? Car was bought new, and currently has 1200 miles on the clock.
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So I have noticed a slight hesitation from a stand still. I press the gas and there is a slight delay(maybe less then a second) before something happens. It also does not do it every time, it is pretty random.
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My car is an 08 AWD 3.3 I am noticing the engine will do a slight rev up, down, up, down when cold almost daily when I leave work in the afternoons.
I removed the airbox and intake tubing, cleaned the throttle body with TB cleaner and mass air sensor with electronics cleaner. I also used about half of a bottle of seafoam in one of the vacuum lines to the engine, and the other half in the fuel tank. Also ran some Chevron fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank. Nothing seemed to make a difference. It still persists.
It's noticeable the most in neutral, you can watch the tach rev up from 800 rpm to about 1100 and back down repeatedly. If the car is in drive and the brake is lightly applied, it will want to move when its revving up.
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I recently purchased a 2009 es in good condition, the tires were quite old and loud and the car pulled to one side. I purchased some primacy's and they are great, however the pulling/poor alignment was still there, I then took it back to the dealership and they rotated the tires which actually worked with the pulling but then there was a slight vibration from about 100-130, by 140 it's gone, but i seldom drive that fast.... I then had the tires re-balanced and the alignment done again, the vibration perhaps lessened but i can still feel it...
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I've noticed that on cold starts after work, or in the mornings in start up my Santa fe's really rough at idle.. I'd like to say even slight hesitation when I take off.. I notice a drop in RPM and lately harder shifts out of first..
My sf is the 3.5 AWD w/ nav it's a month old with 2900 Kms on it..
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