Tacoma :: 1998 4wd Suspension Is Too Soft?
Apr 25, 2010
I just bought a 1998 Tacoma v6 SR5 TRD excab with 112k miles. I'm having trouble figuring out why the suspension on my truck is so soft and even dangerously unstable when driving at highway speeds. Is it my shocks?
When I hit a bump on the highway, 65-75mph, it rocks side to side really bad. But at lower speeds it takes bumps very good almost like a Cadillac. It has Monrore sensatrac shocks at all four corners, so I figure they are not stock. Do you think I have the wrong shocks on it? it doesn't sag at all so I doubt the springs are worn out at 112k.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Love the Gen 2. Really benefiting from the low fuel consumption.
However, I realize that the suspension is really low and suspension really soft. What happens is the the underside of the car always gets knocked against the speed bump on the road whenever there are 2 or 3 passengers sitting in the rear passenger seat.
How I should go about this? Should I get new suspensions that are harder?
View 7 Replies
I'm a fairly new owner, and the 89 gt I just bought came in very good shape. Yesterday the manual clutch just went completely soft. I felt this for about a week when I first purchased it, but only in first gear and it worked itself out and hadn't recurred since then. Now the clutch will not disengage. Gears move well when the car is off though. I noticed the clutch fluid was totally empty when I looked under the hood yesterday. Is this indicative of a bad master or slave cylinder? Or do I just need to bleed and refill the fluid? I love driving this car and want to again soon.
View 1 Replies
I have a 79 f150. I changed two brake lines and master cylinder and bleed,and more bleed,but still very soft all most to floor? wheel cylinders look good.
View 2 Replies
I have an '04 TRD Doublecab 4x4. I first started hearing a "clunk" upon acceleration, but only occasionally. It started getting worse and would happen pretty much every time I accelerate (although it never got louder, just more frequent). It usually only happens after a full stop (or near stop like in stop an go traffic), and I'd hear it pretty much right when I step on the gas. It seems like it has something to do with the A arms moving forward and back. When you accel, the rear wheels push the vehicle, essentially "sucking" the front wheels back slightly. When in 4wd, the noise is still there. It is quite obvious it's coming from the front right corner. I'm usually pretty handy with a wrench, so I decided to swap the upper A-arm bushings and upper ball joint (ball joint was leaking grease). Noise is still there. I ran out of time/motivation, so I took it to the Toyota dealer.
Here's what they did: -replaced front right coil-over, said it was "loose". That didn't work, so they put the old one back on. -tightened bumper etc..., didn't work. -then they removed the REAR drive-line and put it in 4x4 and drove it around. They say that "fixed" the problem since the noise went away. They were pretty adamant it was the drive line, but I didn't believe them since the noise is OBVIOUSLY coming from the front right. It just seems odd that it'd be the drive line. I took it home and tried what they said, I took the drive line off and drove it around in 4wd. They weren't lying, the noise went away. But since a good friend has an identical truck (but an '03) I switched our drive lines and the noise came back (HA! I was right!!). Driving in "front wheel drive" (no drive line) makes the front wheels "pull" the truck forward, vs in rear wheel drive, the rear wheels "push" the truck, and thus the front wheels will move backward slightly because of wheel/bearing friction.
I think it has something to do with when the front wheel is forced "backwards" but as far as I cal tell, all the suspension components are intact and show no signs of looseness. I can now occasionally hear the noise when under slight accel going over studder bumps like street reflectors or something (but only rarely, it's almost impossible to duplicate that on command. Makes me think a suspension piece is loose (shock/spring or loose bushing), but I NEVER hear the noise under braking, and rarely hear it on those studder bumps (and only for a split second). If it were a loose bushing, wouldn't I hear the clunk under accel AND decel (A arm moving back and forth)??? So I'm basically stumped (so was the dealer!). Ball joints appear fine, wheel bearing has no slop (that I can tell), and it has brand new upper urithane bushings and a new upper ball joint. I KNOW it's not the shock/spring, b/c I even swapped the left/right, and the noise is still there (and didn't move to the other side).
View 3 Replies
I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab Long Bed that still has the original shocks which are in need of replacing. What shocks I should get that would provide a soft ride?
View 14 Replies
I have a wobble in steering at 55 mph and have gone thru 2 sets of tires. After 1st set i changed front struts, no luck . When i rotate tires from rear to front it goes away for 6 months and tires start to wear wavy and wobble starts.
View 3 Replies
98 trd 4x4 locker I do not think is working!!!
(The light on the dash just flashes) could it be destroyed internally? how do i tell if the Sylenoid is working? this is my second toyota i bought it a month ago and will be spending big bucks on this unit (parts for repairs, labor not included already exceeding 2,000) on parts alone. i have tried backing up, low 4x4 and the light just flashes! could some moron have blown it up before i bought it? are they very strong? better yet, if it is broken.
View 11 Replies
My '98 Tacoma automatic has had a intermittent hesitation for 5 months. I've had it to 3 mechanics who cannot get it to hesitate when they are driving it. I left it for 2 nights at the last auto shop and let them drive it when it's cold and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It hesitated 3 times this afternoon as I was driving it home from the shop.
Everybody has told me to wait until it gets worse to bring it back to be fixed. I have a new catalytic converter, o2 sensor, fuel filter and none of that has worked. The check engine light has come on briefly once, but went off before I could get it diagnosed. What I can do to get it diagnosed and fixed before I get stranded somewhere?
View 6 Replies
I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
View 3 Replies
My 1998 2x4 2.4 cylinder tacoma truck (69k miles) is making a noise when idling or in any of the gears (5 spd) going down the road. The noise goes away when I barely touch/depress the clutch (depress about 1/2 to 1 inch). Any ideas what is making this sound? It's not a growl or rattle, but a very high pitch, whistling sound almost like a cross between a cricket, cicada and grass hopper.
View 2 Replies
My 98 Windstar Limited has air suspension in the back. Lately, it would be sitting low in the back before starting it up in the morning. The compressor would pump it up as soon as you fired up the van. And the rest of the day would be fine. The other day, the warning light for the air suspension came on, and the compressor has not worked since. Fuses and power connections all seem okay. OBD codes C1770, C1790, C1818 and C1850 were in the system.
View 3 Replies
The driver's side rear suspension on my wife's 1998 Toyota Corolla LE completely locks up when the temperature (read-out from dashboard) is below 30-degF... every little crack in the road feels like the earth is splitting in two and jars my spine. The car becomes almost undriveable. However, above 33-34 degrees, it goes back to being perfectly driveable (as driveable as a 240k mile car is expected to be). I've replaced the front and rear linkages and rotated the tires to try and rule out the wheels... no change in behavior. I just need this car to last another year... really not worth replacing the suspension.
View 5 Replies
So I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
View 13 Replies
Two months ago, I replaced the rear drum shoes, wheel cylinders and seemed after that I was ok until today. I checked the rear brakes and they are split in half. i noticed my abs & brake lights lit up this morning. I would think the ABS is getting stuck? How do I check the ABS? This morning I felt like something was holding back the truck. I continued and when I got home I said to myself, let me just check the rear brakes and thais what I found. Both sides had the shoes broke.
View 1 Replies
Just as the title states. When I put the AC on in the car my clutch pedal gets some play in it, enough that it messes up shifting and gets jerky. I tried searching, but no results
View 14 Replies
I own a 2004 camry 3.0 v6 Car. Recently, i realized that i have to press hard on the brakes for the car to stop and its been like that ever since. I driven my dads rav4 and my friends corolla to test and their cars begin to stop just as i light press on the brakes. Mine however, i need more force to being to slow the car down.
View 14 Replies
I replaced my MC, and still soft pedal, when I bench bleedI noticed that the screw in plugs to fit the tubes over it to bench bleed it, they both were loose and when I was bleeding it a lot air bubbles was goin thru the tubes, so I tighten the screws and belled it again this time I bleed it till no bubbles, installed the MC and we bleed the brakes, and still soft peddle, we are going o bleed again tomorrow. Were we supposed to bleed until the new fluid comes out? and if you can what is the best way to bleed the brakes?
View 6 Replies
Bought a prius off craigslist that didn't have a hybrid battery. Replaced it with a used reinvolt battery off ebay. Car starts right up now. However, there's a few things wrong with it. I can't get the key out of the ignition and the brakes are soft. Could these be related?
I have a fully charged and known good 12v battery in the car. And when I remove it, the key comes right out. If I bleed the brakes, do you think that will solve the problem?
View 4 Replies
A while ago I had to lock up my brakes to prevent an accident. now my brakes are soft and spongy, going all the way to the floor and still not quite stopping. making abs type noise. also, i can press all the way down while standing still, with the same type noise.
1996 chevrolet astrovan
View 3 Replies
