Wife's 2011 Tiguan just stalled when she was driving it. both fuel pumps were replaced about 2 years ago when we bought it used because they faulty. After talking to my wife, I realized that she has been putting 89 in it. I'm just curious if using 89 for an extended period of time could be causing this issue? I had her pick up an octane booster because she just filled up with 89.
View 2 RepliesOk so I have a 09 tiguan S that stalled yesterday while driving only a few short min. My wife had been driving home about 4 miles when she got home I could hear a faint squealing noise as she pulled up. I left right after and assumed it was the the ac belts it that exist, so to verify that I turned off the ac and the sound did fade. I drove with it off for a few min then turned it on again the car acted normal and cooled just fine then about 5 min later I pulled into a lot and while waiting for others to move the engine stalled and I had the engine light, epc and battery lights showing. Now it was something like 110 outside and I thought overheated but the temp gauge showed normal and I received no warnings. I smelled a burned rubber smell and I recall seeing a small puff of smoke. I could not locate anything that could have burned out. The only thing I could see that was unusual was what looked like buildup on the air intake tubes.
View 5 RepliesTwice in the last two weeks, I've had a CEL appear. Both times, I was driving the car more aggressively, but not in the red or anything.
The first time it happened, I slowed down and as I was looking for a place to pull off, the light stopped blinking. The second time, the light blinked, then I slowed down, and then the light stopped blinking and stayed lit.
I checked the fault codes and they were "P0300" and "P0303" which are multiple cylinder misfires, and 3rd cylinder misfire (respectively). Looking those up isn't very useful, except it narrows down the problem to about a dozen things.
It's a 2011 SE triptronic, 4mo, 19k miles, APR stage 1 ECU, CAI, and no other performance mods. I'm running the 91 mode, and using 92 octane gas (which in Oregon is not that great). I've had no other issues with the car, and the engine has never stuttered or seemed off in any way.
I have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
Earlier today our 2012 Tig SEL 4M stalled on me two separate times. Each time I was backing up slowly, when without warning the engine stalled. The only indicator light that illuminated was the battery light. Each time, I was able to easily restart the engine and within seconds I was back on my way. I have a VCDS set-up so I scanned the car when I got home after the second stall.
There were no engine or transmission fault codes in the system.
There were two other fault codes: one in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth and one in Address 4C: Tire Pressure II
Of those, the only one that seems connected is Address: 05 Acc/Start Auth, specifically 1057035 - Antenna for Keyless Entry System: Drivers Side N116F 13 [008] - Open Circuit. It shows as an intermittent fault. My thinking is that the KESSY system ever so briefly looses track of the key transponder (because of the antenna fault), then since the car is in gear it shuts down the engine. Since the fault is intermittent, then it quickly restarts as if nothing happened.
Where the Driver's Side Antenna is located and can its connections be easily checked? Now, pushing this thought further, what happens if this were to occur at speed?? Adding to this, my wife has reported that at times that the keyless entry is a little off, meaning that KESSY won't open the door when she grabs the handle.
My 2011 Santa Fe stalled while I was going 60 mph on a major freeway at 10:30 pm. It was very dangerous and scary, but I was able to pull off to the side of the road and get towed to safety. The "malfunction light" came on and the dealership said it had a code of PO638. They were aware of the problem and performed a software upgrade.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2011 Mazda 2, 1.5L w/automatic trans. The car only has 1800 miles on it. The other day i was driving it when the car started to lose power and then stalled out. I coasted to a stop. When I tried to restart the car it idled roughly and only in the 200-300rpm range. When I put in gear it would stall out. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and then was able to restart the car with no issue. Since then I put on another 40 miles with no problem.
Before the car stalled I had driven it for about 30 miles with the first 15 miles on the interstate. It was 100+ degrees outside and I was running the air. I have taken the car to the Mazda dealer but I am concerned that they will not be able to locate the problem since now the car seems to be running fine. What could be causing this problem?
I have a 99 dodge ram i was driving it home the other night and it stalled out on me and will not turn over. When i try to start it it just clicks once and that's it. I just replaced the fuel pump and have already checked the starter, alternator, and battery and have still found nothing.
View 1 RepliesI bought a used 2007 Santa Fe limited 3.3 last year. I'm currently at 98k miles. I replaced fuel Spenser's, added remote start and a curt hitch, did the head gasket service, did a maintenance to replace spark plugs and coolant.
Everything was ok ( although noticed with our single digit temps the engine was slow to start) then yesterday happened. Starting car in driveway and I got a check engine light. Tried restarting car and it stayed on. No problems. Drove about 15 miles and parked car. It sat for for three hours and then used it to go a few miles up the road ( engine light came on). No problems.
Had lunch, restarted car, light on, and Then oil can red light came on. Drove about 5 miles and while slowing down for a light I felt the power steering go, car stalled, and I couldn't restart. Never heard any whines or shrieks. Pushed car into a gas station and tow truck came. He tried to jump it ( it clicks when I tried to start it but it never turned over) and if his power supply was on and I tried to crank engine it made no sounds. Towed to a shop where mechanic tried same thing. Same result. They put car on rack and tried to manually crank engine. Couldn't budge it and told me engine seized. 4500 estimate to replace engine.
Took my own mechanic out to car ( night and freezing) and he did a few other checks and agreed that engine seized but thought it was weird I didn't hear the whine of the ball bearing getting shredded. Thinks a sensor blew, causing oil pump to fail, causing engine seize.
I'm now reading about multiple issues with crank shaft sensors and pulley separation and it seems like that is a possibility however I can't get my car to turn over at all. Granted it is freezing out here.
On Friday the engine in my V8 stalled while driving at approx 40 mph. I shut it off and restarted, and it idled very rough and stalled again. I had it towed home. Tried starting it at home. started and idled fine. Just went out this AM, started it and drove it around the neighborhood, ran fine. The check engine light never came on at any time. I had noticed one of the variable intake linkage arms as being busted and thought that was the cause. I now understand that that is most likely not related.
So, where does this leave me? As I was listing too it running, I noticed a faint humming coming from this thing on top of the motor. Underneath the VW logo cover is a round black plastic piece with a large hose attached to the side, and a hose coming out the bottom. If I tilt this slightly, the humming stops. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the stalling, but I'm fishing.
Why the car stalled, and/or if this crankcase ventilation/emissions device should be humming.
This morning I started my day as usual, remote started the car via the app to warm her up. I had my ac/heat and heated seats on as usual, everything else was off. After I got into the car I started it up and as I shifted out of park it immediately stalled. I thought I had taken my foot off the brake too quick and restarted the car no problem.
I pulled out of my driveway in reverse and as soon as I went to shift into drive the car stalled again. both times I maintained electricity but engine went dead. I restarted the vehicle and everything was fine for my 15 minute drive. The only message on the dash was to shift back into P OR N.
GM ignition recall debacle immediately popped into my head. My car only has 900 miles on it.
My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
View 8 RepliesFirst time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
View 50 RepliesDriving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
View 4 RepliesDuring our last ice storm during a nice long skid down an icy hit, I reverted suddenly back to my days one decade ago of driving a stick-shift in the ice and tried to down-shift our '98 Camry (automatic). I placed it in reverse. It stalled. The car continues to run, but the check engine light came on. I took it into the garage and they couldn't find any engine issues. They turned off the check engine light. It came back on the next day. Sometimes it sounds like the gears aren't shifting automatically as I drive (rpms run high.) Am I damaging the car by continuing to drive it?
View 3 RepliesIts done this twice to me, once last week, once this morning. Drive a short distance after cold startup and it dies. Cranks strong but doesn't turn over. I waited a few minutes (took longer today than last week) and it restarts with a larger than normal puff of smoke, perhaps due to the multiple cranks, and the epc light comes on. Last week, I finished my errands with it on, it even went off after a restart. Today I didn't bother driving it because I was late for work. 137,xxx miles
Fuel pump and filter were replaced recently, relay was not because I could hear it and a new one didn't fix my fuel pump issue. One day I didn't hear the pump prime so naturally it didn't start but after opening and closing the door and waiting some time, it did prime and start.
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry CE (2.2L/V4) w/ 130,000 miles on it. Just recently I have been experiencing a stalling issue after driving on the highway for 19 miles (or 20 minutes) at a speed greater than 65 mph. As soon as I exit and take my foot off the gas the car will stall as if I just turned the key in the off position. After I pull over, turn the key in the off position and wait a minute or two, the car start right up as if nothing happening. The idle seems to be ?normal?. The engine light does not come on when this happens.
If I feel the car may stall when still on the highway after slowing down, I can shift the car into neutral and hold the idle speed high enough to continue driving. However the car will eventually stall. But again and I restart it and be on my merry way without incident. I have try switching to high octane gas, but that did not work. If I disconnect the battery for a few hours the computer reboots itself and it will take a few more trips at high speeds for this issue to occur again. I have put in a fuel injector cleaner and cleaned the butterfly value (air intake). I own an Auto Xray code scanner; however it is not showing any error codes. What this issue may be?
My 2006 stalled twice yesterday. Was running normally, then suddenly stalled after driving for 10 minutes. Error message said something like "insufficient power available". Started up fine after that, but a few miles later had the same problem.
Some potentially relevant background. The night before these two stalls I got some cheap gas from a no name station. A month earlier my car had a really rough start and check engine light came on, but it drove fine. Mechanic diagnosed a leak in the air intake tube (into turbo, I think), and replaced it. He said he got some strange codes though. (120D, 121B, 216D, 21E0 for air mass meter and fuel trim, and also control module comm code E000, 710B, 900B).
He said if the problem reoccurs I probably need an air mass sensor replacement. Thoughts?
Given it restarts so easily, I'm not too concerned re driving the ~10 miles to my mechanic, but I'll be avoiding highways and rush hour. Or, do you think, I can damage the car by driving to the mechanic?
I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES, with about 120,000 miles. On February 14th, Valentine's Day, my car broke down and has not functioned since then. Here's what happened, I was driving the car when it started to shake. It continued to shake for about 5 minutes, then it stalled. I was able to start he car again and it began shaking worse than before. Then it stalled again and it has not run since then.
The mechanic I've been working with has tried a new CAM sensor, replaced the computer and checked some of the electrical wiring. But nothing has worked. It's been almost 4 months and I am eager to get my car functioning properly right again.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 207K miles on it. I recently replaced the catalytic converter on it in order to fix the P0420 code. I drove the car to work the next day and the test came back under the max specs. I drove back home and everything was fine. No more CEL.
Now I have the problem where the car starts normal when its cooled down, but if I drive it for a few minutes and turn it off and back on again it stalls. If I let it cool down for a minute it will turn on but idle really rough like at 400 RPMs. At times it will stall back again.
The only other thing I did differently was pump a full tank of gas at a different gas station than I normally do. Before I changed the CAT I had no problems like this.
2 days ago my 2000 Hyundai accent Gl 1.5 stalled while driving i lost no power to my electrical system all my lights and stereo stayed on but i lost all engine power the check engine light popped on and i had to have a friend tow me home this has never happened to me before. I had sat in my yard for about a year before i started driving it again due to money problems. I did a tune up on it before I took it out anywhere and ran some lucas injector cleaner and changed oil added some oil additive and changed my air filter spark plugs seemed fine so I didn't replace them and it ran for almost a month just fine i have about 150k in miles on it then suddenly just died while driving home from work I am thinking its in my fuel lines filter or pump are clogged up but I am not sure. I am going to start diagnosing it tomorrow. I can't get the check engine light looked at cuz I can't get it started.
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