Tiguan :: Stalled When Backing Up Slowly / Battery Light Illuminated


Jan 2, 2014

Earlier today our 2012 Tig SEL 4M stalled on me two separate times. Each time I was backing up slowly, when without warning the engine stalled. The only indicator light that illuminated was the battery light. Each time, I was able to easily restart the engine and within seconds I was back on my way. I have a VCDS set-up so I scanned the car when I got home after the second stall.

There were no engine or transmission fault codes in the system.

There were two other fault codes: one in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth and one in Address 4C: Tire Pressure II

Of those, the only one that seems connected is Address: 05 Acc/Start Auth, specifically 1057035 - Antenna for Keyless Entry System: Drivers Side N116F 13 [008] - Open Circuit. It shows as an intermittent fault. My thinking is that the KESSY system ever so briefly looses track of the key transponder (because of the antenna fault), then since the car is in gear it shuts down the engine. Since the fault is intermittent, then it quickly restarts as if nothing happened.

Where the Driver's Side Antenna is located and can its connections be easily checked? Now, pushing this thought further, what happens if this were to occur at speed?? Adding to this, my wife has reported that at times that the keyless entry is a little off, meaning that KESSY won't open the door when she grabs the handle.

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This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.

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Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?

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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.

This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.

So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.

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Well, the Tig has developed brake squeal when we're backing out of the garage first thing in the morning. I notice it even more when it is humid outside (I live along the coast in Texas....when is it NOT humid outside?). Anyway, took the Tig in for the 10k mile checkup and oil change (I'm at 9500 miles right now), and I had a small list of things for the service tech to check out. The brakes was one of them. They came back and said that the squealing brakes is just a fact of life with VW. I told him, that was funny, that my 2003 Jetta never had a brake squeal, all the way up to 90k miles. He said that there was nothing they could do about it.

So, my question is.....does any TBS from VW that covers excessive brake squeal in the Tiguans? I thought for sure that they would at least offer to scuff up the pads or rotors, but he said it was normal because of the amount of dust generated by the pads. I also had the tech check oute that occasionally, in the first mile of driving the Tig, the brakes feel like I'm trying to stop a 2 ton truck old style, that is, they don't slow the Tig down until you're almost at the point of locking the wheels, and of course, they couldn't replicate the problem, so, no problem found.

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I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.

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1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.

2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.

I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.

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Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.

Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.

P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
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Any TSB on this issue?

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I never expected my newer 2010 Prius to have a hybrid battery failure before my 2008 older Prius.

I'm looking for options with Prius over 200,000 miles. Both have been maintained through dealer services. Dealer reports the 2010 Prius with this issue is worth 1000.00 . I'm at a loss I really want to keep the car, but now I'm unsure, and obviously think it's worth more than 1000.00.

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