My 2005 V8 starting intermittant stalling when stopped for a light/ when cruising at 40 MPH; the car restarts, runs for 30 seconds and then conks out. Had the car towed to selling dealing (3000 miles since end of April, 05) and now waiting for a diagnosis. Dealer claims they have never seen this problem before.
View 1 Replies05 Nissan Altima CVT 91k was running great until last week, it stalled while sitting at a traffic light, restarted the engine and ran fine but check engine sign lit up. Today at 60-70 mph engine hesitated once but was noticable, and took 3 cranks to get it to start after re-fuelling. Plugs were replaced at 55k, air filter is clean and was new 4 months ago anyway. Autozone read P0335 and P0725 something about a crankshaft and engine timing sensors?
View 1 RepliesCar has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Saab 9-3, the 'Viggen' model, and it almost always runs just fine. But once in a while, maybe every couple of thousand miles, the engine just stops, in the middle of cruising along. The power steering goes dead immediately. So far, it has only happened in city driving, not going fast or accelerating hard. I can restart immediately by just depressing the clutch and running the starter. From other reading, I wonder whether it's the Direct Ignition Casset? The engine is the 2.3 L turbo.
View 6 RepliesMy air conditioning has stopped working and the dealer tells me the blower motor has frozen up. This car only has 73k on it. Is this common to the 2005 Touareg or ?????
View 3 RepliesLike the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
I have 120K on my 2004 V6 and have been driving with the Exhaust light on steady for about 1000 miles. Tonight after filling up at my usual Chevron with Techron Premium gas station, my engine started stalling and I lurched the 2 miles home. I took off the gas cap to see if reclosing it changed things and it did not. I had the coil pack recall work done 30K miles ago. I'm thinking fuel pump, having it towed to the shop?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
I'm getting an intermittent brake light warning message on my otherwise perfect '04 V8. It is the bulb in the center part of the 3rd brake light. To replace it I looked for access from inside or outside. No obvious way to get to it.
View 1 RepliesI got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
View 2 RepliesI did STFA, but no love. Cruise quit, EPC light on, Intermittent power loss. I checked all the fluids (ok), cleared the codes and drove it. all the stuff came back. I have a 2004...
Vag says:
Thursday,04,May,2006,19:20:22
VAG-COM Version: Release 512.4-UD
Chassis Type: 7L - VW Touareg
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 11 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 29 32 34 36 37
39 46 47 55 56 57 64 65 68 69 6C 6E 75 76 77
[Code] ......
We are waiting for the front drive shaft? It all started a while ago when the Treg started squealing in the front when cruising, it's really loud now and very annoying. Dealer says it is ok to drive on (?). I can't believe it, this sounds not good, I kinda do not look forward to the big lock-up.
View 10 RepliesI'm experiencing a serious problem with the tranny on my V10 TDI: When the engine's warmed up it sometimes starts slipping and generally keeps on slipping, even when cruising on the highway, until the engine is cooled off again. In thread [URL] .... I read something about a "faulty solenoid valve inside the tranny". Could this be the cause?
View 12 RepliesOK here's the deal. Cruising down the road at 55 mph, I felt a pop and then the engine just stopped running.
When I tried to start it up, no oil pressure. It appears that the IPR valve may have failed, but I'm curious if the pop was a catastrophic IPR failure or an indication of something else?
I have a 2004 t-reg, purchased used about 4 months ago. I love VW but have doubts about this purchase from the numerous problems/issues (Tire pressure & flat tire sensor, unable to turn off headlights, etc). This new issue has me worried the most:
While stopped at a light, the car began to shake (almost like it was sputtering at a low RPM), and immediately after, a warning light came on. It flashed at first, then went solid. I don't recall what the warning light stood for (and I don't have the manual with me), but it looks like a faucet (best way I can describe it), it's yellow, on the left side of the instrument panel.
I drove it today because I have to, but only 2 miles. Can I get a way with doing this for the next couple of days? I don't have time to take it in this week.
2005 Golf TDI... I'm due for a smog check, and of course, in the last few weeks I've been getting some check engine lights intermittently. I'd rather take care of the problem before trying to smog. Anyway, here are the codes.
Confirmed
P0674 - Cylinder 4 glow plug circuit/open
P0673 - Cylinder 3 glow plug circuit/open
Pending
P0101 - Mass or Volume air flow "A" circuit range/performance
To be honest, I haven't learned all that much about my Golf TDI. Just normal maintenance. So, I don't know where to start.
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I looked around for ABS issues but did not find anything to my question .. Mine started last summer running along interstate light just popped one I had just run over some paper and stuff tossed out by a diver food bags and stuff so I figured maybe some trash go into the area under wheel sensor I stopped a bit later for fuel and lite did nit come back on at start up.. Did not come on again for several weeks I scanned the system said faulty sensor circuit .
My son in Law has a mech. at his dealership to look it over he plopped a new sensor in it .. Light came back on again a day or so later I think there is a bad connection at some point .. I took the one at the wheel and the one right at the fender well liner a my scanner said it was right or passenger side front both times I scanned it .
My question is, how many more connections there is its almost impossible for my crippled up to crawl and climb all over and under the thing to clean the connectors and add some dielectric grease. 05 S/D 6.0 turbo....
I have an 06 Touareg V8 with AWD, auto tranny. No leveling suspension. And when I drive it specially while my foot is on the gas at cruising speeds there's a grinding noise coming from under the car. When I step off the gas it is gone or when I am accelerating hard I can't hear it. What could it be? It's driving me and my ocd insane!! I think it is drivetrain related (differential, wheel bearing, etc.) but not the transmission as I can still hear it while coasting in neutral.
View 3 RepliesI had the battery checked. Good battery. No codes via regular obd 2 scanner.
2002 passat B5.5 1.8t 5speed.
2x while stopped downhill it shutdown.
Also sometimes has hard starts.
when that happens I get the EPC light light up.
cel is on anyway from p0420 (cat)
If I shut it down and turn it on, maybe after 2-3 tries itll come on. What could it be?
2005 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0 engine
At first I would have an intermittent jumpy speedo then today it got worse and all of a sudden the check engine light popped on. Got it scanned and had three transmission related codes come on including the gear one incorrect ratio code (can not remember the other three). My first suspect was the VSS output. Replaced the sensor and took it for a test drive; no speedo no shifting. Took it back and and got a new one same issue with the replacement.
The tranny fluid was recently changed just after 203,xxx miles. Believe I am the third owner of this car. Seems to have been well cared for in the past. Recently also did some other work that was not transmission related when I first purchased the vehicle.