My left side blinkers keeps Blowing the fuse, I replaced ir 3 times already. First I thought it was the light bulb but my whole left side (driver side) blinkers were out except the one on the side mirror. Is there a relay for the blinkers somewhere that might be bad or something else?
View 2 RepliesMy fuse keeps blowing for my blinkers i legit changed it probably five times and it blows after i use them once. What good the problem be?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with Towing Package. I just recently bought a Trailer and when they tested my 7 pin plug, I was only getting Running lights and 12v Charging. Im not getting Left/Right Blinkers or Brake. There is NO power. I checked all Fuses. The problem is, I cant find the Blinker/Brake fuse. The manufacture book does not show one.
View 5 RepliesI have a 96 Buick Century Special with the 3.1 six cylinder engine. Starting on March 18, 2015 my car has started blowing the Injector Coil fuse any time I take a fast left-hand turn. It never does it during a right-hand turn. I have now replaced the fuse a total of 5 times since March 18.
View 1 RepliesA while back I posted a message about a humming sound that sounded like it was coming from the left side of the dash behind the left air vent.
I talked to the master tech from my local VW dealer and he tells me that the humming from the left side of the dash is not the CAN BUS. He says that there's a water pump high in the left front wheel well that is supposed to run as part of the engine cool process. He says it's not supposed to run during normal operation, but he has heard a LOT of complaints about the noise.
He suspects there will be a fix from VW given the number of complaints, but he says that it's normal and nothing to worry about. Just a little annoying.
My 2006 Azera Limited keeps blowing its backup fuse (10amp) whenever I so much as move an inch in reverse. Moving from P to D (or even past the manual gate) is OK, as long as I don't take my foot off the brake when passing R.
I've so far burned through 4 fuses and still don't know what the problem is.
Here's some history:
The first time this happened yesterday AM, I just replaced the blown b/up fuse with the spare 10amp and the car ran fine the whole day, including several feet of reversing.
The second time this happened was today AM. I ran out of extra fuses, and decided to use the ABS (10amp) fuse instead, to be able to go pick up extra fuses at the local autoparts store. On the drive, I kept seeing check engine and ABS failure messages on the IP, as expected.
After I replaced the 2nd blown fuse, the check engine light came on. I didn't have my code reader with me (it's a funky bluetooth obd reader + android tablet, and i don't always carry the tablet). Had the local gas station look at the codes, and was told of "speed sensor" and a "high-speed controller link" error codes.
Reversed out of the parking spot at the gas station, and the fuse blew again. Twice.
Nothing on the car (other than as described above) has changed in the past several months. I haven't had the car washed for over 6months, but did drive in the rain several weeks ago. There haven't been any other changes at all (I opened the hood up just yesterday after several weeks of not needing to). The car is stock, there haven't been any major modifications (except, I removed an aftermarket nav system and put the stock 6cd radio back, but that was several months ago).
I'm pretty sure there's some sort of electrical fault somewhere, but can't quite figure out what / where.
Just this morning, my 2006 Azera Limited would not cycle on the A/C. I found that the 10 amp fuse for the A/C solenoid had blown. I replaced the fuse. The A/C worked perfectly, blew ice cold air, for about 15 minutes. Then the fuse blew again. Replaced the fuse again, the compressor clutch kicked and started to turn compressor and fuse blew yet again. Replaced fuse a third time, blew immediately. And now tonight, the dash lighting will not go into "night mode" - will not dim the instrument cluster fully, and the night illumination on controls will not light. Also, randomly, the fog light indicator will not light - even though the fog lights are on and illuminated. Not sure all these things are related, but it seems like some sort of major failure is occurring somewhere. I looked for shorted or burnt wiring under the hood, couldn't find any. Other than taking the car to Hyundai and paying two arms and a leg? I have seen posts for other Hyundai models where the compressor wiring shorts against the compressor - but so snug down there I haven't been able to check it properly yet. Also, another post suggested the clutch coil may be bad? But if it was, would it kick in and run properly for 15 minutes? I'm mechanically inclined, have done a lot of work myself on cars for over 20 years, but this one stumps me...
View 4 RepliesYesterday My wife's 2010 Elantra needed a jump start, I had Accidentally connected the Jumper cables up incorrectly. I corrected the issue and the vehicle runs fine now. however the AUDIO fuse in the interior, which controls the radio and any alert Dings keeps blowing. Its a 15A fuse. I replaced it yesterday with a brand new fuse and it worked when tested the first time. this morning however it is now not working again and the fuse is again blown. do I just replace it with another fuse? is there something else I can check? will a 20A fuse work better?
View 1 RepliesI tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
I got in my 2009 Sonata this morning, started it and turned on the headlights. The headlights turned on momentarily and then turned off. The 20 amp headlight fuse blew. I cleaned the battery ground on the fender and the battery terminals. I also cleaned the connection between the battery terminal connector and the negative cable. I put everything back together and installed a new 20 amp fuse. I turned the lights on. They lit momentarily and then, predictably, blew the fuse again. Curiously enough, the "passing lights",which are just the high beams on another position on the headlight switch, still work.
View 2 Repliesgot in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
View 14 RepliesMy 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 f350 king ranch 4x4, I recently used 4 wheel drive and could not disengage it, it would go into 4 low but would not go back to 4 high or 2 wheel drive, I unplugged the actuator harness and applied 12 volts to the terminals and it disengaged, I reversed the power and it engages, the actuator seems to work properly, I then replaced the two relays located by themselves on the front fender driver side, when I try to install the 30 amp female fuse located in the outside fuse panel rear driver side, fuse #3 for 4x4 shift on the fly it blows immediately, it makes no difference if the harness is plugged into the actuator or not, if I remove the two relays then I can install the 30 amp fuse, but as soon as I try to install the relays it blows the fuse again..
View 6 RepliesI have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 RepliesThe other day in 90 degree weather I found that the left side vents where blowing warm air the right side is blowing cold air ,I checked the settings and vent controls to rule out driver error. Living in South Florida A/C is not an option its a necessity. Especially driver side air.
View 1 RepliesAnyways I have a 2006 F350 6.0 and a couple weeks ago I have been having issues with my running lights. In the fuse box under the dash fuse location 17 blows as soon as I insert the fuse leaving me with a short somewhere, no instrument cluster lights (but the instrument cluster gauges work and operate fine), and no running lights on the truck. I have been looking for hours and days and can't seem to locate this short (which I am assuming it is).
View 6 RepliesThe fuel pump fuse keeps blowing intermittently. I would assume it's a wire grounding out somewhere but I can't seem to find one yet. I do have a faulty purge solenoid on the canister but I don't think that would cause this. The reset switch doesn't seem to be tripped either.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Touareg with a 2-zone climatronic system. A while back (hard to quantify exactly), my wife noted that she couldn't ever get warm on her side. I stuck a temperature sensor in the vents and cycled through the temperature settings on both sides. On the driver's side, the air varied with the setting. On the passenger side, it did not.
The absolute biggest problem I'm having, is that here in Florida, I get ice cold air blowing on the bottom of the windshield which causes significant fogging. I can adjust the air to blow away from the windshield, but I obviously get some "blow around" and end up with spots of condensation on the outside of the window. The condensation is almost solely on the passenger side.
I pulled the dash off and replaced the temperature sensor on the passenger side. It actually fixed the problem -- but that "fix" only seemed to last about two or three weeks. After measuring temperatures, the temperature tracked with the setting -- on both sides. Now, the problem has returned and I'm ready to replace the damper motor for the mixing damper on the passenger side. But, after reviewing the eBahn manual, they need the VAS 5051/5052 to intiate a "service position". . . I obviously don't have the VAS 5051.
So, my questions: Is it damper actuator? I also understand the climatronic module "could" be bad. Could the second temperature sensor have actually gone bad? Can the VAG-COM be used to intiate the service position? If not, what are my options?
Have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter. Headlights not working unless turning on the bright lights and also left blinkers are on. At this point if bright lights are turned off then the headlights working.
View 3 RepliesI can find some references to unsatisfactory sound and whining noises in the speakers, but not dead ones. The wife called me the other day, annoyed, and said that the speakers stopped working in the Treg. It appears that it is the left side, both front and back. They came back on for a little while, but now have been "dead" for a couple days. There is an occasional "pop" from the left side, but that is all.
View 2 RepliesI have been hearing a rattle from the left side of the car. By accident I found that when the rear left sunshade is extended the rattle goes away. When it is retracted it seems to sit in the door frame perfectly. My 05 Treg has 5000 miles on it and I have had this problem for the last 2000 miles.
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