Touareg :: Driver Side Power Window Buttons Area Is Peeling


Sep 8, 2005

Driver side power window buttons area is peeling like mad! I noticed its just a plate with plastic and some cheap peel off stuff that is attached to it. Is there a aluminum or wood trip kit to add to those areas. Passenger side is not so bad. My car is otherwise looking like the day i bought it one year ago. [IMG][/IMG]

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There's a film peeling off the inside of the drivers window. I didn't even know there was a fim there, I assumed the tint was in the window itself. It appears that it is shrinking away from the left edge and along the top of the window itself. The piece along the top edge has peeled off and is now actually flapping in the breeze! 1/8 to 1/4 inch, tops.

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I have an 05 touareg and I started to notices that the rubber coating is peeling off the buttons. Is this a common problem or an I just touching them to hard?

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Driver Side Power Window Motor Won't Stop After Window In Upper Position?

2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.

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Lexus RX 2004-09 :: Aftermarket Key Won't Program - Driver And Rear Window Buttons Are Flashing?

I just purchased a 2004 rx330. I purchased a set of keys off amazon and tried to program them using Techstream. It will not allow me what so ever to program. it always gets to programming the key step and then says error between key and ecu. I have programmed tons of toyota keys using techstream and never had any issue with aftermarket keys so I bought another set from another vendor and they will not program either. I was able to manually program the remote for keyless entry so they will communicate with the car and are the right FCC ID number. I used to be a service advisor at Toyota so I do know more than the average person when it comes to these.

Also the power window master switch will not roll down the drivers side rear window or do auto for the drivers window. I have tried every combination to reset (we used to do them on the driver sometimes) and it still wont work. Drivers and drivers rear window buttons are flashing.

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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.

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Lexus ES 2013+ :: Driver Door Window Master Switch Stopped Working Including Lock And Unlock Buttons

So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.

My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.

After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.

After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.

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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?

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My drivers side power window does not work as if its getting no electricity. I bought a new regulator, plugged it in and it still does not work. I bought the 4 switch console, replaced it and still it does not work. The 3 other windows work though.

I checked the fuse, its fine. I am wondering where the electrical current could be stopped. Also, where could I get a schematic of the window pins so I can check the voltages and what each pin does?

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My 02 venture has about 52k. my driver side power window is having an issue. while closing the window, when it reaches the midway point of being closed, it tilts forward a bit, and slows to almost a stop before it finally resumes closing normally.

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1996 Blazer Driver Side Power Window Is Slow To Go Up Or Down

When operating my driver's side window, it is very slow going up or down. I have to get it go up by pulling on it while pushing the button or else the circuit breaker will stop the motor about when it gets about half way up. Sometimes I have to push it going down also.

When it is very hot outside, and the window is in the up position, it will not go down at all (very annoying since my AC doesn't work). It just does not make any noise at all when I push the switch.

I have taken the door panel off and greased everything I could and put silicone spray on the felts in the window channels, but the problem remains.

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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and the driver side power window has stopped working. When I press the button to lower the window, I hear a click-click-click noise for as long as I am holding the button but the window does not move at all. Fortunately, it is in the up position. I don't hear any motor noise either when I hold the button down.

Chances are it is a real easy fix. I'm not sure about this but I think this issue began right around the time I had locked my keys in the car and they stuck something down inside the door to pop the lock (I wasn't home so I didn't see what they did). I just wonder if they didn't pull a wire loose or something when they were fishing around in there.

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I just noticed I'm getting a rattle from the power window panel on the driver door when the bass kicks in with the mark levinson system.

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The driver's side power window is so slow to be put up. I think there is something wrong with the motor.

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It looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.

In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.

Like this: [URL]

But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]

So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?

I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.

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So after 6 1/2 years, my original Panasonic battery died today morning. I used jump start to get to work and used the same method to take the car to Sears to replace with Diehard Platinum.

While driving back, after the battery replacement, I noticed that I couldn't use auto power window roll up or down on driver side (manual roll up/down worked). Other three windows won't even work. I checked the windows lock button and it wasn't in lock position.

I turned the ignition power off and turned on to ACC. Then I could able to roll driver side windows up/down in auto. However, other three windows remain nonoperational. I also noticed a small green light on the window is illuminated only for driver side.

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The window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.

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