My Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
View 4 RepliesV10 TDI doesnt give any boost when accelerator pedal is flattenned. What could be wrong.
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
I have been hearing a muffled thud or knocking noise often, especially when letting off of the accellerator when coming to a stop...almost sounds like some kind of bracket might be broken and some part is slapping against another. No particular consistency in the pattern of the sound...very strange. I had the car in for service to replace the stepper motor and the tech indicated he thought changing it would take care of it...it didn't.
View 3 RepliesThis rattle from the ignition lock is really annoying and comes from the ignition lock, it sounds like some friction b/w metallic objects.
View 3 RepliesWhat this might be. I have a rattle type noise coming from behind the glovebox. It is only there at low speeds and driving on poorly paved roads. It is definitely not in the glovebox. It has been driving me crazy for some time now...
View 3 RepliesI tried to search for this, so I might be alone here, had a rattling noise coming from the right rear seat / seatbelt area?
View 24 RepliesWent to pick up my Touareg tonight. Took it for a quick test drive and there was a noise and rattle coming from the steering column when you hit bumps. It sounded like metal on metal. The tech guy drove it with me and agreed something is wrong. They put it up on the rack but I left because I had been there for one hour and that was already past my mental limit for being in a car dealership. I didn't sign the paperwork. Told them to call me when they figure it out and I'll come back and buy it if the problem is not significant. Everything was going great until then.
View 2 RepliesI started my car and a chain rattle noise then the check engine light popped on. now I have two codes, p1340 and p0012 codes for camshaft issues.
View 1 RepliesI have an 2005 VW Touareg. I purchased it 1 month ago with 8919 miles on it. I love the thing! However I have a rattle coming from the part that is below the passenger dash. The good thing is it only rattles when i hit a big bump, however when u pay 30k + this is the last thing you want to hear. See Pic. How to remove this black panel so i may fix it? Dealer was no luck the typical "I didn't hear any rattles" ....
View 1 Replies2007 Touareg with 19",V6, with 10,700 miles
Problem: Noise or rattle in engine compartment, at low speed (less than 25miles/hour) on uneven pavement (not potholes). Can be replicated over and over.
The dealer acknowledge the noise and has tightened all suspension parts, greased all joints, replace front-right shock and bushings (for some reason the noise is more prevalent on Right side), put some sort of tool with sensors in different areas of the chassis to "hear" noise differences while driving to determine the culprit.
Description: To me, the noise sounds like there is something lose in either the engine compartment or the area where the wipers are located. Sort of like if there was something (plastic maybe) hitting the chassis (only at slow speeds - I cannot hear it when driving faster I guess because of engine and road noise). I have not been able to figure it out.
The noise was present only on another 2007 with 8K miles.
Major squeaking noise started end of last week. Could it be the brakes? but no sensor warning light came on! 36K Miles.....
Service at 30K showed brake pads to be okay. I did my own inspection and agreed. I took it to the dealer this morning (I've always had problems with them so I'm used to having to fight and try to get a good price) Dealer says I need Fron Brake Pads (to me they still look okay) and this is what's causing the problem. I'm going to replace them and advised them to drive the car after completion to check the front Drive Shaft since this seems to be a problem with this vehicle.
Concerns: Brake Light sensor did NOT come on. Squeaking noise = Could be Front Shaft.
My APR dealer is double checking on this. Got an APR Stage 1 tune today and am now periodically noticing a whistling/slight rattle when I punch the accelerator. Only appears to happen when I build revs quickly. Never heard anything like this before the Tune.
View 24 RepliesI've taken out the 2 bolt covers, taken out the T30 bolt, and have loosened the gas pedal a bit. But I can't pry the gas pedal upwards with a flat head screwdriver. I'm pulling and yanking this pedal up and back towards the front of the car and it won't pop off! Are there any tricks to getting this pedal off?
View 2 RepliesTrying to diagnose the below clunk noise as the accelerator is initially pressed?
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If there belt tensioner wobbles like this on a 2azfe? There is a noise as you initially press the accelerator but then disappears. You can hear it in the video. I know there is a tsb on the tensioner but the belt doesn't look like its loosening off.
If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
View 3 RepliesYesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
View 19 Replies2000 Integra with 95k miles in an excellent condition - used pedal jack when parked
I had to make a left turn and ramp up so put it on D3 - I pressed the accelerator and when I felt the speed could be higher (I am not comfortable to drive up the hills) so I must have pressed hard on the accelerator. It then responded
Not sure what was happening, I started breaking and steering - still around 30mph, guessing - it was not a wild drive.
Still not satisfied, I moved to gear 2 and stopped the car. Realized the car is still pulling, turned off the engine and realized the accelerator pedal is stuck.
I pulled it and it has been fine! With the engine off, I pushed the pedal hard and it always bounced back. Not sure that the getting in and out the pedal jack had been interferring with the accel pedal. It also looks like the engineers did a good job that with the stuck accel pedal, I did not end up in a wild drive - I had to brake and move the tranny to 2 but was able stop it - it was a mild up the hill, but unsure if it played a big role.
I need to know how to unplug the accelerator wiring. I lift the little red lock on the side, but then I still can't unplug it. I've tried pressing on different places like is so common with other plugs, but no luck.
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