Our V6 Touareg stalled while reversing out of a parking space last night. We have about 21,000 miles on it, and never had this problem before. I was able to fire up the engine again without any problem... by the way, can you tell if the battery is good or not from the battery meter in the instrument cluster?
View 10 RepliesSo I've noticed at times when I make a turn or when backing out of a parking space and cranking the wheel I hear a knocking sound. What it is? 2013 F Sport with 37K miles. Under warranty so taking it in either way but just curious on what it could be.
View 5 RepliesI just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
I have an 01 Hyundai Elantra that has had power steering problems for awhile.
Awhile back, when we would fire it up, we'd get a loud screech. Eventually, my father in law replaced the power steering pump and belt.
Now there is a new issue. Ever since he has replaced that, on start up, there's a small screech and when turning out of a parking space, the steering wheel is tough as if the power steering isn't working.
I was thinking it's the power steering pump pulley, but can't seem to find any real stores that just sell the pulley itself. I did see the pulley have a minor wobble in it when examining it. Thinking maybe its the bearings on the pulley.
Not really sure what happened. Drove into town on a nice casual drive after lunch to pick up some stuff at the hardware store we now have (we're big time now). About a 4 mile, uneventful trip. Went in, did my business, came out, turned the key on, bumped the key to the auto start thing, shifted to reverse, began backing out of space and the truck started beeping at me like I've never heard before.
Stop and keep my foot on the brake and the message center is just posting multiple messages and dinging each time a new one comes up. Had to hit the OK button on the steering wheel to clear many of them. Things like, low oil pressure, low coolant, powertrain malfunction, reduced power, shut down engine, the end of the world is near (I made the last one up).
Decided that it was either a catastrophic failure in 2' at 2 mph, or an electrical glitch, neither of which I could do much about. Decided best course of action was to shift to park, idle for a few seconds and turn the truck off.
Counted to 10, went to restart, and nothing. Like both batteries had been removed. No dash lights, nothing from the starter, nada. Turned off, counted off 30 seconds and more of the same. Repeat this time waiting one minute using the watch and again, nothing.
Pulled the key out, tossed it in my lap and waited 5 minutes while dreading having to call my son in law (who now is driving my old truck) to grab a trailer and come rescue me. Either 5 minutes or key out of ignition was the key because truck started up with no more warnings other than the SES light.
Vehicle health report said oil and stuff was good (dipstick said it was good too), but the end of the world was coming and I needed to get to a dealer right away due to the light.
Used forescan to pull the codes and nothing major jumps out at me, but the common theme seems to be the computer lost contact with all the electronic gizmos and it was apparently too much for the system to handle. I did not clear the codes (attached to the bottom of the thread).
Question now is, truck is less than a year old and has a bit over 33k on it. Do I clear the codes and chalk it up to a non-verifiable electrical gremlin, or take it in to a dealer for who knows how long to let them look at it before the 36k warranty goes?
If they reflash the computer, I'd have to add the nav again, but not sure a reflash would fix anything other than just giving them something they said they did.
I've been hearing a popping noise occasional when reversing into a parking spot for about a year no, its like 3-8 pops each time. I looked at the CV joints and the rubber hosing is intact. I am pretty sure this particular noise now is not ball joints squeaking.
How long can I let this slide without replacing. Is the CV joint sold as one whole piece?
BTW I'm checking out the 2013 Sante-Fe....
Having a slight issue with my 2004 Camry. I've noticed when reversing out of a perpendicular parking spot the car seems to cluck when I am turning my way out. It always clunks twice, it feels as if I am reversing over a slight bump. It doesn't happen every time and it only seems to clunk when I am reversing out of a spot. I feel it throughout the car rather than hearing any odd noises. The lots I park in are smooth so I know it can't be the lots.
View 1 RepliesThree weeks ago I started my truck as usual in the garage and let idle for couple minutes. Backed out of garage and accelerated, then it stalled, started again and drove about 150-200 feet and stalled again. This repeated two more times and then I decided I better try and "limp" back to the house. It has been in at the service dept. for three weeks now and they first told me it was the fuel pumps. Now they say its the fuel transfer pump, don't know if there is a difference.
My service dept has no straight.
I've had my R since late mid-summer, and one of the first things I noticed was this clunk sound when reversing into my parking spot and when making an aggressive sharp turn. Usually Left.
After reading multiple threads on this topic, I came to the conclusion that it was my sub-frame and the bolts need replacing. I got in a GB for the tyrol subframe stiffening kit after reading some good reviews/responses.
Today, on my day off, I finally went to a mechanic to get this installed. I just changed my mechanic, and this was my first visit to the guy hes had over 10 years experience at vw and just opened up his own shop. He did a great job, torqued the bolts to spec, made me drive around, do some pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear, reverse forward etc.
So hes about to pull the car back in to retorque and.... CLUNK...
Get in the car, reproduce the sound, get the car back up on the hoist... and at this point I'm expecting the worse. He takes my control arms off, checks the end links...
Brings the car down, and the clunking sound is louder than ever. It was the weathergaurd. When I turned on the wheel it was pulling it out and when I straightened the wheel it was popping it back into place, making a big clunk sound.
This was the exact sound that I was hearing, thinking it was my subframe. The bolts that came out were not stretched or bent out of shape like the ones you see in other reviews. They're actually in great shape. I'm glad I did the Tyrol kit and do not regret it, and I definitely feel a difference when I went into some aggressive turns.
2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
Does the 2011 Touareg have automatic outside mirrors "tilt down" when reversing?
View 9 RepliesSo a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
On the wife's 300C hemi, the driver's side mirror dips in reverse gear; on my VW, it's the passenger side.
Which is "correct" ?
I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 235,000 miles which last summer started to lose power going up hills and then stalled when I pulled into a parking spot. After sitting 20-30 minutes car restarted and drove fine. At the time a mechanic recommended tune up and replace fuel filter. Because money was tight, I could only replace the fuel filter, which actually improved driving performance.
But a few months later, when I started the car the idle was very rough, at 35-40mph the car felt like it was driving over those street cut outs, acceleration capability dropped...got a tune up but it hardly fixed the problem. Mechanic thought the ignition module was bad, but a new one didn't cure the rough idle. Fuel pressure was normal and the injectors seem to be working fine.
Since the tune up, there's strong gas smell outside the car (lessens after engine runs a while), gas consumption has dramatically increased, and the engine shuts off repeatedly when slowing to turn into a parking spot or turning car around in the street. This winter cold killed my battery so the first thing I need is a new battery, after that then what? Should I get a compression test? What could be causing these engine performance problems?
Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 RepliesWhen I went to shut off the ignition today, the MFI showed "Parking Light On". Don't know why it happened but it shut off by itself. But then it switched over and said "Side Light On" and the annoying buzzer stayed on. This is the second time that message came on. I started the engine again and it shut off. Actually, the first time the message "Side Light On" came on was after I had opened the rear hatch and noticed the inside lights stayed on.
View 5 RepliesMy parking assist does not work any more. red lights and and one tone front and rear when the car starts, after that I just get red lights going forward and red lights going in reverse. Any way to reset the whole system? I pulled the fuse but that didn't work.
View 3 RepliesYou can turn parking lights on on left or right side via the turn signal feature. I can't see a way to turn all parking lights on. What am I missing?
View 4 RepliesI have an '08 T2 and this issue may be unique to this new version of the Touareg. Here's the deal...
Let's say I am driving at 30 MPH on city streets. When I apply the brake, I "feel" what I would describe as periodic engine braking occurring simultaneously. I also experience this periodically in all sorts of driving situations when I am not accelerating. In other words, the truck doesn't always just coast freely. This "feeling" doesn't really slow the truck, it's just a feeling like some sort of resistance is taking place. I have also described it as a hum but it's only slightly audible.
I am in DRIVE with the A/C running . I have 800 miles now but it's been happening since I picked up the truck. Oh - no, the parking brake is not on and the differential is not locked.
When I took my truck in to have the CD changer installed, I tried to describe this to the tech. They ultimately said it is probably one or more of the various pumps. It was also suggested that it may be the A/C compressor but I haven't been able to determine that it truly the case.
I am becoming so frustrated with this that I am considering going to another VW dealer in a friend's car to test drive another T2 and see what it does. I need to figure out if this is just something a T2 does or mine is screwed up.
Again, there have been so many changes in the 2008 model so it may be unique to this new design. Unfortunately, they just came out so I don't know how many owners are out there yet.
My 2004 Treg is thoroughly enjoyable, having had it for almost 2 weeks at this point. I notice every now & then, that the parking lights stay on after I turn the car off, despite the switch being in the "off" position...
View 2 RepliesMy problem is that i am stuck in the parking gear and i cant move ... I changed the brake light switch and nothing still in the same gear .. my friend scan my car and it sends Comm with TCM failed Comm with abs fail.. The problem is that i need to move my car from its current location. I will like to fix the problem but my main thing is to move the car from where its at . How can i move this car ?? Also I notice that when I connect the new brake light switch on the back of the car the back door light turns on the stop one only that one ...
View 3 Replies