My 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesSo the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
View 13 RepliesI've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
View 8 RepliesWhy the rear Auxiliary A/C blower on a 2004 Sport Trac keeps blowing fuses and how to fix it?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
View 6 Replies1989 E150 Club Wagon, 5.0, EFI, Autotrans, 61kmiles.
Blower motor acting up.....sometimes on, sometimes off......mostly off now. For a while there whenever I would accelerate heavily, the Blower Motor would cut off, and when I leveled out in speed, it would come back on. I'm thinking maybe the thermal cutout in the Blower Motor Resistor Assembly..... but I also want to check the Blower Motor Relay, which I find on the schematic but have no clue where it is on the Van........ Also, it must go by another name because I can't find it listed in any of the parts stores.
1990 740 gl with 225000 miles and as a routine maintenance I want to clean my solenoid and maybe flip the contact and clean up the plunger on the bendix (inside the solenoid). No biggy right. I know my way around this car, replaced water pump, fuel pump, fuel filter, injector o rings, etc., sensor, etc over time.
The starter though wow - how do you get access to the top bolt? From top side I took off the bellows to intake manifold ( air breather element)but that top bolt I cannot see how to access with a short socket.
From the bottom I can get at that bottom bolt easily enough and actually got it out no problem but that top one wow. From underneath it seems like there horizontal room not vertical room due to the tranny dipstick.
This is the only part I am having trouble with, everything else on this car is pretty clean and clear. Again top starter bolt access tips on how to get it out without stripping it.
i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
I have a 1989 towncar. The blower motor works in any selection (vent, panel, hi-low, mix, defrost) but does not work in the "floor" position. It also turns off in the off position as it should.
I changed out the entire climate control assembly with another one from a junkyard. I thought the function selector electrical switch might be bad. However, the blower motor still does not work.
My friend like to get his 1990 740GL back on the road. It starts and dies. Narrowed it down to injector pulse. Noid light is bright the first couple pulses then gets weaker and weaker while cranking to almost nothing. Tried a new radio suppression relay.
Tested the voltage to the positive side of the injector plug and it is full voltage with no drop from battery voltage. I tested the negative side of the injector plug for resistance to pin 19 on the ECU and it was perfect no resistance. I thought that was a pretty good sign the ECU was bad. Replaced it. Jetronic and same exact number. Same exact symptoms. I checked the grounds on the valve cover to firewall and the ground on the intake from the harness.
What else could it be?The ECU I replaced is in the passengers kick panel. Is there another computer for the injectors?
I have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and I was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
I left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be I haven't driven it since!!
I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 RepliesThe system is charged, the fan looks working, but the a/c works well only when the cars is moving. What is it?
We think it works well if the "rear ac" is on, but that's not normal anyway.
The system is charged, a autozone tester say overloaded but the gauge of a technician says is ok, then who knows. The fan is working and the car never goes overheat, then I guess that fan is working good.
I recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
I just bought a 2005 Camry LE with a sunroof, but the motor doesn't work at all, not even any clicks. Can it be removed and replaced just by taking off the center plate with the switch and map lights? How does that piece come off so I can look, anyway? I tried to pull it off from the front of the vehicle, nearest the windshield, but I cracked two tabs...
View 2 RepliesHave a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
View 6 RepliesI have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 RepliesThe car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Olds Alero. The AC compressor went out so my father in law and I replaced it. It worked fine for about one month, not it keeps blowing the a 10 amp fuse (can't remember which one at this moment, my wife is at the store with the car). I have been told that it is a bad wire, I can't see any pinche wires and have looked up to where the wires go into the tape/plastic casing. I have also been told that it is the compressor that is doing it (the parts store said this was not the case... I think they just don't wanna warranty anything).
View 12 Replies