I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
View 5 RepliesI have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
View 6 RepliesMy parents have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix. The blower that controls the a/c and the heater does not work consistently. It just works when "the spirit moves it." I took it to a mechanic today. They didn't even look at the car. They just went by my description of the "symptoms" of the car. According to the place I went, it needs the whole nine yards (naturally). How could they tell what was wrong without examining the car?!
View 8 RepliesA few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
The oil light came on in my mazda pickup. So the mechanic put in a new oil sending unit, spark plus, wires, distributor. $250. Two days later the oil light came back on. So the mechanic put in new rod bearings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, valve cover basket, and oil filter (and oil, of course). $1300. Two days later, the oil light is BACK ON!! What is going on??
View 7 RepliesStarted up the 2002 EXP today and thought the fuel pump was failing. Get a consistent thump every 1 second. Later today i looked and noted the noise is coming from drivers rear fender well (i think). I took off the small plastic cover of the rear blower motor and thought it was in that area. Disconnected the motor and still thumps. Disconnected the blower motor resistor block and still thumps. Looked at the overhead consol and the rear blower was on HI. Turned the blower down and as you reduce speed the noise volume is lower. Turned the switch off and i thought the noise was gone. Pulled the cup holder above the fender well looking for a relay or something in that area. I cant isolate the noise but seems to be real close to that area. Later i heard the noise, very faint, and the blower switch was off. Turned it to 1-2-3 and it gets much louder. Turned it off and very slight noise. What am i looking for? My hearing is not accurate enough to find it.
View 2 Replieswith a new heater core, new blower motor, and new resistor and no heat, what would be the problem? gonna check the thermostat tomorrow.
View 2 RepliesB2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
View 1 RepliesMy wife is out of town and while she parked her 1997 Mazda B Series pick up truck this morning she stated that her truck continued to roll while parked on a very slight incline. The vehicle was in gear so she put the emergency brake on. Could the clutch be slipping although she said it seemed to be shifting fine. She has to drive back 3 hours over the rolling hills of Nevada and is very concerned that something else could be wrong. What could I have her check besides the clutch fluid?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1989 towncar. The blower motor works in any selection (vent, panel, hi-low, mix, defrost) but does not work in the "floor" position. It also turns off in the off position as it should.
I changed out the entire climate control assembly with another one from a junkyard. I thought the function selector electrical switch might be bad. However, the blower motor still does not work.
The engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
View 1 RepliesSo the evaporator in my dads Prius had been leaking for a while so we finally decided to bite the bullet and change it. Everything came apart fine. Changed the evap and expansion valve. Put it pretty much back together except for glove box and a pillar trim pieces. Push power button twice to make sure all the flaps and blower motor works as it should. Well the blower motor doesn't come on. I hear the relay click when you turn the fan on in the mid. No power at the fan though. I checked just to be sure. I've looked all over for loose wires/plugs but have yet to find anything. I started the car up and everything works fine except the blower motor. What it could be?
View 13 RepliesI've got a new to me 97 Ranger that the blower has never worked in and I can't get it going. I've checked the fuse. That's good. Tested the relay. That's good. Did an ohm test on the power switch for the blower. It's open in the "OFF" position and closed in the other positions. I've got continuity through the speed selector switch. New resistor and pigtail because the other one was nasty looking. What seems odd to me is that I've only got power to the blower motor relay at one terminal with the switch on (number 30 I believe). In addition, when I test the plug for the motor itself with my test light, one of the wires (org/blk I think) has power only when the switch is off. And I ran power straight to the fan from the battery and it spun right up. What am I missing?
View 8 RepliesMy 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 96 ranger.I noticed the fan did not work but for high. I search the internet and found how to remove it and discovered a mouse nest(village) which basically took over the housing where the evaportor core,blower motor resides. I bought a chilton but cannot remove the housing around the core so I cleaned it the best I could(air compressor and vacuum and disinfectant)...
I had to buy a new blower motor and resistor. However, I cannot find the hose that attached to the blower motor?-mouse had chewed a hole in the one- I've looked and found serveral differents names for it but seems I cannot find it at my local parts store.
My question is- is this intake hose? vent hose? I'm guessing I will have to go to dealer or, if I know the name I can look it up in a salvage yard?
Have a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
View 6 RepliesI have and 07 F250 and the #2 speed for the blower motor don't work (hasn't since I bought it) I read that the most common cause of this is the resistor under the hood on the firewall so I replaced that and still no 2nd speed??? Where I look next? Motor itself maybe?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Windstar Van with 155,000 miles on it. A problem has developed with the electrical system/components. The van will start and run fine. With the engine running, there is no instrumentation, power windows do not work, wind shield wipers do not work, radio does not work, heater blower motor does not work. After the engine has been shut off, the radio will work, windows will work, door locks until such time as you open the door, then all quits. With the key in accessory, the windows work, door locks work, radio works, etc. The neutral module was replaced (the old one, none of the contacts appeared to be burnt). Ford dealer spent an hour trouble shooting - checked body modules (2) - found nothing.
View 4 RepliesThis 92 MB E300 has been sitting around for the better part of the last two years for various reasons (have another car with better mileage, don't drive much anyways, no insurance on it, etc), and we've been trying to get it going again with some mixed luck. I just replaced one of the window regulators (cable busted) and the battery (alarm drained it dry), but now we're having trouble starting it. It doesn't happen every time, but when we try to start it, the starter motor seems to get going no problem and it turns pretty good, but it just won't catch consistently. Its almost like there's no fuel in there, or maybe no sparks or something? Sometimes it will catch for a second, but it takes a while. Usually, once it's going its good, but if we have to stop and wait at a red light, it will sometimes just die when shifting to drive (I usually put it in neutral and give some gas while waiting). Also sometimes just when it's in a low gear and shifts up it will die too. Then, we have trouble starting it up again!
So what's going on, do you think? I was thinking maybe something along the lines of the fuel pump, spark plug, or injectors, but what do I know? (not much).
My horn doesn't work consistently. Problem started about 6 months ago. Airbag never been deployed. Never wrecked the car. No liquids ever spilled on steering wheel. There is nothing that could be identified as a precipitating event.
View 8 RepliesI have a 97 Aurora and I have had no other electrical or major issues with the car. However randomly the blower goes on and off. It does it on all the settings, and whether it is on AC or heat. It is really starting to bug me but its almost time to put it away for the winter and I would like to have it ready for "constant" cold AC this spring. I have tried tapping on the motor and it makes no difference. The temp flashes on the climate control all the time but it has always done this. What the random on/off issue could be? It is not throwing any body codes, just the usual o2 sensor in the engine.
View 4 Replies