Mazda :: 1988 B2200 Engine Pings Shortly After Get In And Drive It When Car Is Warming Up
Mar 18, 2013
The engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
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I have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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Deliver mail so make many starts and stops throughout the day. I drive a 1988 Mazda 323 manual transmission. Recently, it has had trouble starting in the rain (like it isn't turning over). When it isn't going to start, the red lights come on the dash and then fade out to black.
The first time I noticed it, I was running the lights, windshield wipers, radio, rear window defogger and the a/c on and off to clear up the front window. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the battery.
The next time it wouldn't start, I had accidentally killed it and was running the lights and windshield wipers and radio. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the alternator.
The next time it wouldn't start, I only had the the lights and windshield wiper on. It eventually started. The mechanic replaced the distributor cap and wires.
Now today, it wouldn't start again but eventually did. I had the lights and windshield wipers and radio on. I turned off the radio before trying to start it the second time and it started.
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I'm a rural mail carrier driving an '88 Mazda, manual transmission. Recently noticed that sometimes the car won't start. Didn't have it looked at yet, because it always starts for the mechanic. One of the times I tried to start it and it didn't start on the first try. It did start on the second try and then the keys fell out onto my feet. I put them back in and kept delivering mail. Previous to that incident, I thought the keys were "loose" in the ignition.
So, I switched to a different keyring with only that key on it. Still have incidences of the car not starting. All the lights come on the dashboard when I try it but it doesn't make any noise at all, not even the ding ding ding, you're seatbelt's not on.
I think maybe it might be the battery. It seems like that was it the last time when all the lights came on but it didn't make any noise. However, I don't think a low battery should make the keys fall out. That's not normal, is it?
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I've noticed this more on the Phaeton than the last two cars I have owned. When the car is warm and I arrive at my destination and turn the engine off, the engine makes a lot of little pings and pangs for several minutes. Don't know how better to describe the sound. Does this mean anything? Normal?
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I have a 1988 FORD Ranger with the 2.9 liter engine with the four speed automatic overdrive transmission. Several days ago the transmission went out. The truck will not pull in reverse, overdrive, drive, second or first. Usually most vehicles will usually have at least the reverse, A first or second when the drive and overdrive stops working altogether. What the problem could be?
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V6 diesel engine producing white smoke shortly after startup. I noticed it this evening when leaving to come back to London and shortly after starting the journey the exhaust was laying down a rather nice smoke screen that stopped very quickly after about 750 metres.
I only noticed a small amount of smoke later in journey when pulling away from some lights and it was illuminated by the car behind. The smoke definitely wasn't black and the only thing I can think of that's been out of order recently was the oil being overfilled by the dealer. I did an oil change this weekend and removed about 8 litres (the engine accepted about 6.75).
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I have a 1988 F150 which is in beautiful shape. My father in law had it since 1989 and had "babied that truck" according to him. So it's running great, has a mere 92,000 miles, is an automatic with 4X4 with manual shifter to put it into 4X4 or Low 4X4. Here's the questions: When driving in rear-wheel drive mode (I never drive it on the street in 4X4 - we don't get snow here in SC) it has developed a hard shift from first to second. It feels like it bumps when shifting. When empty it shifts at about 3200 RPM at average acceleration, which I think is a little high. Does RPM even matter when the shift occurs? Can the tranny be adjusted to shift at a lower RPM? Is my tranny about to go kerplunk? The transmission fluid was a tad low so I topped it off but that didn't seem to work.
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I have a 2006 Audi A4 with about 90,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine has been making a clicking noise when it is warming up. Once the engine is warm it stops. No, performance problems, just the sound. It got an oil change recently (I always use synthetic oil), but the sound was occuring before and after the oil change. What it could be?
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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This is after a few minutes of the car warming up.. I'm concerned do to the fact that I've only owned the car for two weeks .
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When I'm leaving the house and I pull out onto the street, I have to go close up a very annoying gate which takes a good few minutes to do. The car is still in it's warm up mode so the ICE is running the whole time. I know just turning it off would save gas, but would it be bad for the engine, to turn it off with the key before it shuts itself off?
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Basically, when driving shortly after turning on the car (when the engine is still warming up) I often experience a 'shot' of acceleration despite not further depressing the accelerator. In other words, I'll be driving along smoothly and suddenly the car will speed up slightly by itself without me having done anything. This only occurs when the HSI is past the middle (i.e. when the engine is powering the car) and when the car has recently been switched on. It's almost as if the sensor that detects my acceleration is re-calibrating itself while I'm driving, increasing the input to the engine.
The first time it happened it was a bit of a shock and I was a little scared, however I'm used to it by now and can anticipate it happening (however it doesn't happen 100% of the time). It's nothing too serious - it probably only accelerates a couple of KMs above what I'm actually doing but still is a bit of a worry. I'll be taking it in for a service shortly and seeing what they say about.
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My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
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Recently my daughters 626 stopped going into drive, 1st and 2nd as well as reverse work. Dealer says the transmission is shot...I would like another opinion. Has fluid though I do not know the last time the filter or fluid was changed. Car only has 90K on it.
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