Mazda - B2200 :: Truck Continues To Roll While Parked And In Gear
Sep 27, 2011
My wife is out of town and while she parked her 1997 Mazda B Series pick up truck this morning she stated that her truck continued to roll while parked on a very slight incline. The vehicle was in gear so she put the emergency brake on. Could the clutch be slipping although she said it seemed to be shifting fine. She has to drive back 3 hours over the rolling hills of Nevada and is very concerned that something else could be wrong. What could I have her check besides the clutch fluid?
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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The oil light came on in my mazda pickup. So the mechanic put in a new oil sending unit, spark plus, wires, distributor. $250. Two days later the oil light came back on. So the mechanic put in new rod bearings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, timing belt, valve cover basket, and oil filter (and oil, of course). $1300. Two days later, the oil light is BACK ON!! What is going on??
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I was wondering if there may perhaps be a more conventional approach to getting the blower fan motor for the AC/Heat in my 1990 Mazda to work consistently - other than whacking it with my hand or foot? Is there an easy fix for this?
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I have replaced the water pump,oil pump,timing belt an tensioners, done a head job an now it wants to start missing when you put a strain on the motor[going up hill] but doesn't on level ground.
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The engine "pings" shortly after I get in and drive it when the car is warming up. I watch the engine temp rise...and when it starts to get warm just before the thermostat opens and the temp drops the car "ping or pre-detonate" when the accelerator is gently pressed. After the engine warms up... no problems. I drove it from Port Angeles Wa to southern Oregon with out it ever happening... but when I drive a short distance to town it consistently happens. I have checked what I know how to but beyond that it seems odd. Its it normal for the engine temp to rise up warmer than the normal operating temp, and then drop back down? The thermostat was recently replaced. It seems something is creating excess vacuumduring the warmup time that makes the engine ping. All the vacuum gizmos and gadgets make me crazy...
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I have a very reliable Mazda 3 2006. For the last month I have had a problem with it refusing to start. I put the key in the ignition, turn it on and nothing. No start, no grinding, no clicking, no sound at all. Got a new battery and it happened again. The second AAA tow guy taught me to start the car by putting it in neutral ( with foot brake and hand brake on) and then start it, which does the trick when it won't start otherwise.
After the new battery and continued problems I asked my mechanic to check the electrical system. He did and said everything was fine.
I don't know whether this is a generator, alternator, computer or battery problem. And I don't know what I am doing to my car when I do the neutral set start. I don't know if I am hurting my car when I do that.
The problem is intermittent. There is no pattern: length of trip before I stop, length of time the car is not used, etc. What is causing this and what needs to be looked at/ fixed.
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We just bought a used 2007 Mazda CX-7 in Dec 2010. Three times that I've parked the car, only me, no witnesses, and used the remote lock & alarm set, I've come back to car after shopping to find the two front windows down. The first time I thought I must have left them down but it's happened two more times, twice when it's been at night and cold so that I would not be driving with windows down.
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Got a 2004, Mazda 6i, 2.4LT, Manual, 140K miles
Car has been acting weird from past one week or 10 days. Outside temperature is around 25- 40 Fahrenheit.
I park my car in my home garage. It started fine in garage in morning, drove to work and parked in open parking lot for about 8 hours. Evening it did not start in the first try, it started at 4th time. I thought it might be weather and battery.
Next day morning it started fine in garage at 2nd start. Same problem in evening it would start at 4-5th time. Then I looked at my car battery and it was installed 2 years ago 3/2014.
I went to Walmart where my car battery was installed and they tested and said it is fine and has no problem with car battery. Just to make sure I took to nearby autozone they said that car battery is fine.
Over the weekend I left my car in our garage and was starting it every day morning to make sure if its working fine. It started fine and left it ON for about 45 minutes, everything is fine.
Today Sunday evening the weather outside was good around 55F. Went to some store for grocery shopping and returning back it started at 4th time.
When ignition key is turned ON, all the lights on dash board,radio,lights are fine and when I turn on the car it does not give any sound ( no cranking or anything) it was completely dead.Took the key out and waited for 5 minutes and tried again, with little cranking sound it started at 3rd try.
Took car to autozone for free testing and they said Car battery is good and when they asked me to start the car,it again did not start first time. They jump started my car and it started.
They are suspecting it might be alternator. What baffles me is why does the car start in 2nd try when parked in garage over night and does not start when parked outside in parking for about 45 minutes.
(Starter was replaced for the above car 2 years ago).
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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With my previous cars I only had to put the car in gear and it would not roll or move. However, the first night I took my R home last week I woke up to the car which had rolled half-way down the driveway. Now I always use the e-brake.
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After returning from about a 5 hr roadtrip, I backed my snowmobile trailer up my steep driveway in 4wd and the truck did not want to move after that. The truck is an '05 SCREW 4X4 5.4L with about 110,000 miles on it. Trailer is probably around 1,000 lbs with the snowmobile on it.
The driveway is steep and short. That combined with the 90 degree turn to get in and some uneven terrain and part the path onto slippery frozen grass makes for a bit of a rodeo trip backwards up the driveway with a trailer.
Anyway, after getting the trailer up into it's place, I unhooked it, switched back to 2wd, disengaged the parking brake, and put it into drive. The truck didn't roll which was weird as it's now in drive pointed down hill. With about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle, it crept forward. Again, this is down hill. I got out walked around the truck (make sure I didn't forget to unhook anything etc) and tried again. Same thing.
Once I made it to the fairly level street, the truck would still only move, barely, with about 1/4 - 1/3 throttle. Now it was like some of the wheels were free but at least one had to break traction with the pavement to allow the truck to move forward. So with constant pressure on the accelerator it would chirp one or more of the wheels a bit at a time as it crept forward. Acted like it was in some sort of imaginary tug of war. After about 40' of driving it worked itself out. I've driven about 10 miles since and seems just fine.
I'm concerned because I plan to do this frequently with this trailer and in the summer frequently with a boat weighing about 3,500 lbs although shouldn't need 4wd in the summer.
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I just bought the truck and the previous owner said sometimes when the truck is parked in an angle, like in a drive way it will not start unless you use a screw driver and touch both posts on the solenoid. It happened to me today and I do not like it and need to find the cause? Why it would do this?
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I have been having problems with my drivers side power window on my 06 Ford F-150. At first, it would roll down, but wouldn't roll back up, so I replaced the switch. After replacing the entire power window control switch, if you push the switch for the drivers window down, it will start to go down, then stop, and you have to press it about 20 times to get it all the way down. You can definitely hear the switch clicking off. All the other windows work perfect. I took it to get the oil changed and asked about it, and they said to change out the regulator, which I did, but the same thing happens. I checked the fuse and that was fine. Is there a relay or something I should check?
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 with 237k miles on the original 4R100. Yesterday afternoon I went to back out of a parking space and the truck wouldn't move. When I put it in R, the transmission will engage and upon pressing the gas pedal it acts like it wants to move but will not budge. It rolls forward with no issue or noise. It will not roll backwards at all - not in neutral and not in reverse. The transmission shifts fine but with some hesitation to engage each gear. I have noticed some slippage but nothing crazy.
I 1st thought something might be wrong with the rear end but after some research I think it might be the transmission.
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Have a 2007 and everything was running fine all day today. Stopped at home for a few hours and went back out to run a few more errands and my truck started running poorly, dashboard lights were dimming, and the ESC OFF & ABS dummy lights came on as well as the red battery light. Managed to turn around and make it back home. Sounds like my battery needs replacing? Hopefully its just the battery and not the alternator.
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The problem is it is hard to start after the truck has been parked overnight. It turns over ok but seems to take a long time to start. After it has ran, restart is normal, it fires right up. My ranger is a 2001(4.0 liter V6) and the problem is also with my daughter's 2006 (3.6 liter V6). I have tried a new fuel filter but no change. If I turn the key to the on position without starting it for a few seconds and then try to start it the engine starts sooner but still a little longer than normal.
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I have a '09 Ford F-150 Lariat, 5.4 with a lighting difficulty. Previous had it in for service for exterior lighting that was intermittent and uncontrolled. A door module was replaced and reprogramming performed by the dealer. Worked OK for awhile, but today I noticed that brake lights were on while the truck was parked.
Checked all that I could think of then pressed the caution light button, activating the front/rear caution lights. Turned the caution button off. Brake lights went off. About an hour later, noticed the brake lights were on again. Tried different things to deactivate the brake lights, but to no avail - brake lights stayed on. Have disconnected the battery - this is where it sits at the moment.
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2001 F450/6.8 gasser. Auto trans. This strange thing just appeared from nowhere. Start the truck, put it gear. As soon as the truck starts to roll, the chime begins to sound. If I continue on, it'll beep 80 or 90 times before stopping. As soon as brakes are applied and the wheels stop turning, chime disappears. Happens in forward or reverse. No lights appear in the cluster. A check with an Actron scanner shows no codes or MIL. Seat belts are buckled.
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My 03 Ranger 4.0L has become a mystery that has baffled every one I know. Everything was fine and I ran home to something from my house was in there maybe 10 minutes came out and the truck wouldn't start. it doesn't even crank over. out of the clear blue. I had a friend who works for a garage check it and he thinks timing chain. Since then I have been told it wouldn't just fall off sitting there with no indication at all there was a problem.
Thought maybe PATS system. Its in order. Put in on a computer from auto-zone and it shows a check engine light but the reading is there is no codes in the computer on file. I am at a loss. Its been months and I really cant afford to take it to a garage right now. Its the strangest thing ever no crank, no stalling just nothing I hit the switch it lights up like its ready to start and nada.
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I have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
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