1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
View 1 RepliesHave swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
View 4 RepliesI own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
View 19 RepliesCar has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
View 2 RepliesI just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
View 5 Replies1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
92 Dakota 3.9L ... Starts and runs great. Engine shuts down, usually within first 30 minutes after starting. No shutter, just as if you turned off the key. It has not been an everyday occurrence.
I can wait 2 minutes or spray brake cleaner in the intake and it will restart. It will run the rest of the day and never happens again on the same day, even with multiple restarts and driving 100 miles.
I have installed a new ASD relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new crank sensor and new air valve controller on the intake. They can't seem to catch it when it happens.
Cranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
View 3 RepliesI just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
View 4 RepliesWhen I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
I have a 1992 Cadillac Brougham Hearse (Eagle Coach Co.) with a 305 V-8 that I’ve been having the following problem with. It had gotten to where it would start up, run at idle for 10 to 15 minutes and start cutting out, sputter and then die and would not restart afterwards. The next day, go out, starts right up and same thing after idling 10-15 minutes, cuts out and dies. So, I immediately think, fuel filter and or fuel pump! So, I replace the in tank fuel pump, sending unit and the in line fuel filter. Results remained the same. I’ve even swapped out the coil, ignition control module (ICM), starter and fuel pump relays from a like car and am still having the same results. Fuel gauge is reading between ¾ and ½ tank of fuel. Wondering what to look at next?
View 4 RepliesI have a 92' Areostar XL 3.0 2WD. When I first start it and put it in drive it takes a few minutes before it kicks in. After a few minutes of driving it doesn't have a really bad problem (only a few times has it slipped in lower gears.) I was told it could be a clogged transmission filter, old transmission fluid that is glummed up, or pull belts need to be tightened. I have the van up on jacks now and was getting ready to change the filter and fluid but I decided to get some advise first before I screw things up or do any unnecessary work.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
View 1 RepliesHave a '92 Olds Cutlass Ciera 6 cyl 3300 engine. After 20-30 mins of driving it dies when I have to stop for a light. Depressing the brake kills the engine. Starts right up after but as soon as I put it in drive, it dies. If the car sits for 20 mins or so after problem begins it's okay. If I get to an intersection and have to stop, I put it in neutral. When I have to go again I rev the engine, let it die down some and then put it in drive (hard on the car, I know, but it's only way to get going again. Once I'm moving, I can accelerate and it's okay. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 92 star with a 4.0 liter engine and I think a 4ald auto trans. When I 1st start the motor it takes 3-4 minuted before it will go into gear. after that it's fine. I've tightened the 2 bolts under the dash tightening up the shifter and my fluid level is fine.
View 11 RepliesMy 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.