Volvo - S40 :: 2004 - Stutters At Startup When It Gets Hot Out
May 12, 2012
I have a 2004 Volvo S40. For the past few summers, when it gets hot out, especially if the car is sitting in direct sun, when I get back into the car to start it up it stutters and often won't move when I press the gas pedal. I have taken it to several mechanics and they never fix it. When it's really hot, sometimes it will stutter when I am stopped at a light and threaten to shut off. So, what is going on?!?
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I have a 1998 Volvo S70 with 140k. 2.5 litre 5cyl automatic. For sometime now my lifters have been making noise especially at start up. I'm up to date on my oil servicing using Volvo filters and a 20-50w motor oil ( as recommended by my mechanic ) but still the noise continues. In the past I have used additives to the oil but still the problem continues. Maybe I'm using the wrong one.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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2004 F150 FX4 97K
When accelerating and turning from a stop (like making a left hand turn), the rear end kind of stutters and then hops/bumps and goes smooth. One wheel turning faster than the other? Researching this site it sounds like the bad clutch packs TSB.
Question: How long can I drive with this problem before I mess something else up seriously on the truck?
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Well this happened way too many time already. I would turn on my car and sometimes it starts right up, other times it attempt to start then stutters (if that makes sense, imagine as if the battery were disconnected during start up) then resumes with an ESP Error on the dash. I would say this happened to me more than 10 times.
And also, why I get a "Brake Error" as well, that would be great. It hasn't popped up in a while but it showed up and vanished within seconds.
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SO the 04 Camry I bought slips when it sits a while, for about 2 seconds, then the transmission feels great. Its only after a long overnight and SOMETIMES when I go to leave work after 9 hours.... I am talking to the dealer now since its got less than 200 miles since I bought it... I am thinking a torque convertor leaking down?
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23,800 miles. Cruising up Hwy. When EPC and Check Engine light both come on for about 1 second, car stutters, then it's back to normal. Never happened before.
Check for codes with VAG-COM and nothing registered. I did notice a strange like-a-clock-ticking sound coming from the center console area as I had the key in the ignition while checking my ECU with VAG-COM. Didn't sound horrible, but it was a sound that I don't recall ever hearing before.
Could this be the start of something that is about to get worse?
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I went to school and parked at 8:00 AM. Came out at 1:00 in the afternoon and started the car. The crank was fine but for about one second the RPM dipped to around 300 before recovering to the normal 900-1000 RPM like that of a cold start. I replaced the alternator myself 1500 miles ago so I don't think that's it.
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A little background on my Prius, I have an 08 that has around 179k miles on it and have never had any major mechanical problem. I have always kept up with routine maintenance. I use Synthetic oil and change it about every 6500 miles.
So, two weeks ago, it was time to change the spark plugs again. Carefully, I took out the old spark plugs and installed the new spark plugs. On the second spark plug wire and spark plug, I noticed a little bit of oil, so I wiped it off with a shop towel, installed the new plug, and kept going.
Interestingly enough, now I have a problem where when I first start my car (and only when I first start it) and I just have the interior fan running (not with the A/C on) I get some serious extreme exhaust fumes through my A/C vents and that wasn't happening before I changed the spark plugs.
Now my first thought was, "Shoot, what the hell did I do to my car?!"
Here's the weird part, once the ICE has warmed up and shut off for regular "ready" mode, I don't smell it ever again even if the ICE activates as I'm driving. Note that at this point, I haven't made any changes to what fan speed or setting the climate is on.
As soon as I turn my car back off, then back on again by pushing the power button, out comes the awful exhaust fumes again.
So, here's where the testing stage comes into play. I have tried everything I can think of. Yesterday, my father take the air box off and we made sure all of the hoses were attached and the recirculation hose didn't have a clamp. We replaced the clamp and resecured all of the hoses in the engine thinking that there might of been a loose hose with the exhaust recirculation.
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2004 nissan murano SE.. Today my vehicle took a while to start , then the CEL came on. The battery is fine had the output levels checked, we are very weary of mechanics in the area..
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I have replaced the cam phasers, tensors chains and guides 5.4 3 valve. Runs great no noise for 1,1/2 months but after it sit over night on first start up it makes all kind of noise for a few seconds then it is quiet so what would you do change the motor it has 134000 miles. I already have 800 in parts and 1000 in labor fix or replace if i replace what motor would you go with 5.4 2 valve are 4.6 which one will i need to buy vin is 1ftpw12574kd57164 the motor in it right now has 5w20 oil with the recommended motorcraft filter sounds like the chain tensors are losing pressure over night and that is the noise at first start up....
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My Passat stutters on start-up and the engine light comes on.... took it to a vw dealer they ran tests and said nothing was wrong with the car, yesterday the engine light was off all day it was fine then some days like today it comes back on.... its a 2001 b5.5 1.8 T with 59,500 miles, manual tranny? I mean i get the oil changed every 3k miles, using synthetic oil, air/fuel/oil filters i always change every 3k miles with the oil change, i also got a tune-up at 45k miles and get the tranny flushed and new tranny oil every 15k miles, I dunno whats up with my passat...
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My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
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The car starts easily when the motor is cold. If I park the car for 30 minutes and then restart the motor, the following happens:
1. Motor turns over
2. Motor stutters and stops
3. I press down on gas pedal and turn ignition on-it starts with a little stutter
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Just bought a 2010 Prius... Anyways... I have noticed that at steady speed (mainly higher speed) I feel a very slight power stutter (though that may not be the best word here). Not enough to change the speedometer reading, but I can feel it a little... of course I'm very sensitive to these sorts of things since it's a used car and I have only a 30 day window to identify any problems. It feels like maybe it's working out the gas:elec ratio it wants to use, which would seem normal. It's all drive-by-wire right?
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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MY 07 passat 2.0t stutters til it warms up. Took it in to vw and they replace the plugs and coils but it still does it. Engine light stays on says 2 cylinder misfires. Its stops after 5 mins but when it sits for awhile it starts again. it has 110,000 miles thought maybe it could be carbon buildup?
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So my wife's 2002 Passat, 1.8T, is acting weak on the interstate. Under passing conditions, it seems to lose power, and even stutters a little. Cruising and idle are both fine.
It has blinked the check engine light at me a few times when the stuttering happens, but when I check for codes, there are none stored. I replaced the plugs and coil packs about a year and a half ago.
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In a nutshell I have an '06 Taurus that is pretty mint -108k miles - but the other day when driving home the car stuttered at about 40 mph, just as it was shifting into Overdrive. My heart sank because I was afraid my transmission was busted. Continued until I got home.
The next morning I took the car out cold and nothing, car shifted like it was fresh from the factory. I said Ok, but I noticed the rpm needle wasn't steady with the tiniest fluctuation between 500 and 600 rpm while idle.
So, I go for a drive later and the car is driving and shifting well but there is a hum sound from the front passenger side of the rear of the engine compartment. The car is still driving and shifting well. Then, after driving enough to get the car up to temperature, the car stutters again at 40 mph and when shifting into Overdrive.
I've confirmed, over the past few days, the car runs perfectly when cold and the car only stutters when shifting into Overdrive when warm, as I can drive the car in low gear at any temperature all over town with no problems.
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I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
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I drove my 04 s60 2.5t car to the store, while on my way to the store, the car surges 3 times. On leaving the store the car started and run for about 10 seconds. This happen several times to the extent that I have to towed the car home. I tried using my CAN OBD II scan tool to retrieve any error code that may be responsible for the engine cutting off immediately after start, but it registered no error code. The check engine light goes on and turn off after a few seconds.
1: why would the engine run for only few second and cut off
2: Why no error code was registered
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