Volvo - V70 :: 1999 - Running Little Rougher And Starting Little Harder / CEL O2 Sensors
Aug 10, 2011
About 3 months ago the check engine light came on. Scanner read rear o2 sensor and it was replaced. After about 100 miles CEL returned. This time it is the front o2 sensor. It was replaced and CEL returned after about 70 miles. Reading was same exact sensor and it was replaced again but same reading returned after about 80 miles. Now the scan is reading P1132 which is MAF sensor. Car is running a little rougher and starting a little harder. What can solve the problem? I have a rejection sticker on my car.
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I have a 2000 Malibu which started playing up a year ago just after I bought it. The starting became harder and harder the warmer she got, this became worse over time to the point the battery drained completely and the thing wouldn't start. A jump got it going but the battery wasn't charging from the alternator. Replacement battery and alternator solved this first problem, I thought.
Five months later she starts getting harder and harder to start again. This time I got to the mall 2 miles from home, stopped to shop, got back in and she was dead. Ok, slap on the charger...nothing. Ok, called Son and slapped the jump leads on, nothing. Called tow truck who also tried a jump, nothing. I'm wondering starter, solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, ECM, what!?
The other problem is, when it drives, around 28000 revs it hunts and dips up and down around 28000 revs. Also revving to 4000 it dies, but picks back up again and revs, hits 4000 dies and so on. Lastly, often when sitting at lights she fluctuates around 7000 revs and occasionally dies.
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I have some problems with my 2001 Volvo V70 about its light sensors and tailgate sensor.
Starting from this spring, every time when I turned the right-turn signal light on, the bulb fail message will pop up in the dashboard even though there is no bulb failing. Also, it starts to state that my tailgate is not closed while I drive it during the sunny day.. (That means, it will become normal during the raining day...) The problem that accompanies with the tailgate issue is the cargo light sensor malfunctioning. Sometimes it light up all the day while driving, sometimes will not turn-on at all; but sometimes work normal during the raining day.
What could be the core of these problems? I don't want to take it to the repair shop for a whole day, and still can not find out the issue..
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I normally drive my 2010 Prius. But I have been driving my wife's 2012 Camry XLE the last couple of days. (My Prius was clean and hers was not.
Well twice in the last two days I started her car and put it in drive to find it was accelerating uncontrollably! The harder I pushed on the brake the harder it accelerated.
After taking my foot off of the brake I discovered that my size 13 EEE shoe was on both the brake AND the accelerator.
Now knowing this, the same thing happened the second day! Luckily They both happened in parking lots and NO damage was incurred!
This has never happened in my 10 Prius or my 08 Prius. maybe the pedals are not as close or the Prius's low end power was not noticeable.
It would be ironic if all the BS over the floor mats came down to big feet or improperly placed pedals. My feet have been the same size for 50 years and many cars and NEVER had this occur before.
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My father inlaw has a dodge van that is having problems starting. When starting it will crank, but will not fire. We have discovered that if you remove the 20 amp Oxygen Sensor relay, under the hood, and jump it directly to the battery, while starting if will start. The fuse appears to be good. Can the O2 sensor relay prevent the van from starting, but run after initially bypassing after starting? What it might be?
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I have a 1999 F250 Ford with a V-10 gas engine. It has 65000 mi. Mostly, it starts and runs great. However, when its 10-15 degrees F, it has a hard time starting. It may start and run very rough - then smooth out. Or it may not start- I come back in 2-3 min and it will start. Once it starts and gets past the rough/missing stage, its fine. If the temp hits 25 degrees F, it usually starts just fine.
There are no warning lights and I've taken it to 2 different car parts place and plugged in a computer- but it shows no alarm code. I've taken it to 2 mechanics and told them they had to work on it first thing - when its 10 degrees.
Once the temp reaches 25, it'll start every time. Both mechanics found no problem starting - I'm sure they didn't get to the truck until it warmed up. Its hard to fix something that works fine. I don't know where to look, but I don't want a truck I cannot trust to start. I've changed air, fuel filter and spark plugs.
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I have a 1995 f-250 7.3 liter diesel engine. Truck starts fine and runs good for a while and then it will stall. I pull over and after a couple of attempts it will start and run fine for a while. I have changed the fuel filter and put fresh fuel in but it still stalls.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder. A couple of months ago the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge quickly hit the roof. I was able to pull it into my mechanics shop before any damages was done. They looked at it and said I needed a new thermostat and housing. A few weeks later the temp gauge again went up to near the top. I live, work and shop all in a close radius so am not in my car for long periods of time but the gauge seems to measure high after about 20 minutes of driving in the city (no more than 45 mph) with the AC on.
I turned off my AC and took the car back. They then replaced the fan belt and clutch that engages the fan. Took the car home and two days later temperature was up again. Took it back and they said they had not realized my car had a second thermostat so they changed it (at no additional charge "since they didn't catch that up front") - they kept my car for 2 days. A couple of days later the scenario replayed itself. I took it back in they changed the sensor to the temp gauge (at no additional charge) tested it and still overheated so now they have now also flushed radioator 3 times for any debris. They have had my car for three additional days now.
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2003 Ford Taurus, Vulcan V6 (OHV), 40k miles. I picked it up in January, occasionally I would hear a "chirp" sound with the engine running. I assumed it was the serpentine belt and replaced it. It seemed to work.
Today the chirping started once the car was warmed up. I did some research and discovered the chirp sound is a symptom of a worn synchronizer. I checked with a mechanics stethoscope and verified the chirp is coming from the area of the synchronizer.
I'm debating doing the repair myself, regardless I won't do the repair until the weather warms up. It not my primary car, but I would still like to drive it a couple times a week. The chirping is intermittent for the moment. Am I risking anything driving it as is?
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I own a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8, and there has been an ongoing problem with it stalling. The check engine light is on and it reads codes about idle control sensor and 02 sensor. I spent a lot of money having both replaced, along with an processor. I had to bring my Jeep to a dealership so they could "marry" the processor to the car. The check engine light went out for about a day, then once the computer reset, light went back on. The codes still read bad O2 and idle sensor despite them being replaced.
The problem is when the car starts cold I have to keep my foot on the gas for a couple minutes or it will stall out. Once it has warmed up the car runs good. I turned the idle pin on the front of the throttle body to try to keep from having to put my foot on the gas but it still stalls. It seems like it is working better in the cold weather. My mechanic says that I may have turned the idle too far trying to fix it and that is why it is stalling.
I just want my car to run without having to warm it up every time. It wastes time and a lot of gas. Could it be something other then what I've already replaced? I don't want to keep replacing the same things and not have it fix the problem.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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I have a 2005, Volvo S80, it has 107,500 miles on it. In the last two months the car has started (NOT everytime I drive but sometimes and then the next time I drive it it is fine), jerking and sometimes a thunk sound as it jerks. When it is doing it it does it s I finish stopping from going fast or slowly AND then when I accelerate it feels like a the car has a delay from the gas pedal. And starts with a jerk and the thunk sound.
When I brake what happens make me imagine that the wheelbase has stopped and the the body of the car is still going and clunks as it stops too. Like it is lurching over the wheel base. Sometimes it does it the whole time I am driving (starting and stopping) and other times the car drives fine. Talking to several mechanics they all seemed stumped and have never heard. But mechanic guesses that they want to fix have been electrical board shorting, timing belt, transmission needing to be flushed. What this actually is? And what needs to be done about it.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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I took my 2011 c30 in for its 30000 mile routine service to a local Volvo dealer service dept in Sept 2014 and ever since I am hearing an intermittent clank after starting the engine. I also hear the noise while driving (it eventually stops after a while) and for about 10 minutes after shutting the engine down. The time between clanks is about 20 - 30 seconds. It is a single clank sound (like metal hitting metal). The car operates fine and no warning messages.
I took it back to the Volvo dealer service dept and after 2 days they were perplexed, and asked me to bring it back the following week when their Master mechanic was in-house, which I did.
They had the car for 5 more days and never could diagnose the issue and were told by Volvo HQ to give the car back to me. The service dept told me they sent all the info, including documentation and audio of the noise to Volvo HQ and that I would hear back from them.
Here is the response I finally received on Feb 18 from the service manager: "I spoke with tech again on this matter. Tech reviewed the case and the notes from Volvo. The noise concern has been left open ended for now until the noise gets worse as per Volvo. Or if they have other cases of this same concern with other same type cars/engines. At that time Volvo would contact us if there is a repair that needs to be done and we would contact you. Otherwise there is no additional diagnostics and or inspections to be done unless its getting much worse. As per Volvo and tech."
The car is under warranty for 1 more year, and my next service (37,500) won't be until the fall as I don't drive much. The noise is still the same, not better or worse. It still drives fine and there are no warning lights. However, I don't like leaving this opened-ended.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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I have a 2001 xc70 105,000 mi. the tranny is clunking when it gets warmed up, stopping and starting. it doesn't do it at highway speeds. when its cold it doesn't do it at all. no messages as in check engine lights.
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I have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and I was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
I left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be I haven't driven it since!!
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Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
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My e99 f250 has been getting harder and harder to start over the last year.
I think one of my batteries is dying or dead but it still cranks fast while it does.
For instance when I tried starting today it seemed to crank just like normal but their was some relay clicking inside the cab that was abnormal.
My understanding is aside from cranking no power is required to start the motor? what if the dead battery is taking some cranking amps from the good battery preventing the computer from getting juice?
would the truck throw a code if it was a glow plug?
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