Acceleration - Gasoline - Pedal - Sentra :: No Reaction When Step On Gas
Jun 4, 2012
I have an 03 Nissan Sentra 1.8 with 200k miles. A year ago I started having an issue with the accelerator. When I drive the car the accelerator stops working. It idles perfectly, but when I step on the gas, I get almost no reaction. It does increase RPM about 200, but that is all. When I first start the car, the accelerator works for the first five to eight seconds, which leads me to think it is some kind of sensor. There is no check engine light.
I've tried replacing the throttle body (which includes the throttle position sensor), mass airflow sensor, and the fuel pump. I had it on to the dealership and they reprogrammed the computer, but the issue persists. Last bit of information I can think of is that the problem used to disappear when the car sat for a few days. So I had been driving it only once or twice a week. Unfortunately, the problem is now constant.
Many people talked about the throttle position sensor, which I replaced, but to no avail.
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Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
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When I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
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After my 2005 Nissan Sentra check engine light came on I had the codes read. The code is indicating that there is a lean air/fuel ratio mixture. I'm thinking this may be a false positive(bad sensor), clogged fuel injector, etc. The light has gone off and come back on. I live in Utah where the cold weather may play a factor. How to diagnose the real problem, or where I should start?
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I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
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About 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
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My clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
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I just installed an AFE stage 2 on my 04 f150. I was driving down the freeway and I decided to step on it and it made a loud hum sound and it had a vibration I could feel through the pedal. It was so loud and aggressive I pulled off the road to see if something came apart. Everything looked ok and all my bolts and such are tight. Is this normal?
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I just noticed it this morning. When I step on my brake pedal, all 3 brake lights activate, then they start to sporadically blink, I don't think it's a fuse problem, since the 3rd brake light also blinks, and I believe it runs independent of the regular brake lights.
What to check.. No codes are being listed, checked that with my Scangauge II already. (2006 GLS)
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I've got a 1982 automatic chevy 454 engine with only 46,000 miles on it (in my Winnebago RV). It runs just fine except each time I step on the gas pedal from a stopped position for an instant it sounds like the engine is about to die and then it starts going. Is this a major engine problem or something that requires minor adjustments? I want to sell the RV. If it's going to cost a lot to fix, I'd rather lower the price of the rig.
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I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy sedan with a 2.2L engine with AWD. When I step on the brakes I hear a ratcheting type of sound and feel pulsations in the brake pedal.There is no problem with brake performance that I have noticed. We have replaced the front rotors and front brake pads.We also replaced the rear passenger side brake caliper. It still makes a loud ratchet/groaning-like sound. It makes the sound when you first start braking after starting the car and intermittently while driving. It's not constant when you step on the brakes.
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I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
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I have a 2010 Mazda 6 with an unusual issue. When I step on the brake pedal it resists for a quick moment then seems to "collapse" and go to the floor. The resulting braking is affected, but almost unnoticeable. When I quickly release the pedal and re-apply pressure the pedal doesn't quite "collapse" as bad, but still is not as resistant as it normally is. I have taken it to the dealership three times for this issue and they can find nothing wrong with the car, the brake pedal or brake systems. It doesn't happen all the time and is not weather or outside elements specific.
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i have a 04 ford excursion 6.0 with the egr delete, was stopped at a light to make a left turn, when i stepped on the accelerator pedal nothing happened as the engine was just idling. i pumped the pedal around 10 times and finally got the engine to rev up. i just got this excursion and don't know to much about the maintenance on it. i am going to drain the water and change the two fuel filters. my neighbor is familiar with diesel engines and he said to look at the throttle sensor. i have run this engine up to 900 miles and it has started and run perfectly. i believe the usual maintenance like oil changes etc were done on it. would any error codes show up even though no warning lights on the dash.
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I have a hesitation/stalling issue with my explorer. Started about 2 months ago and can't figure it out. It began with truck feeling like gas wasn't getting to it and it was kicking as if it were getting it, but not at the right times. Asked around was told the throttle body positioner may be going bad as well as fuel filter might be getting clogged. Replaced both and it seemed like it worked as it felt like it was driving ok, but it was all in town driving. Took to interstate and began kicking again. Then, it started to misfire?? or lose power in town and would stall at lights and or turns. Talked to some other people and said it might be my Intake air control valve and or gaskets are leaking from the upper/lower intake.
I got new IAC and got new gaskets and cleaned lower intake and changed oil as well. It ran great for about a day or 2. Got it on HWY and around town and it was great. Now runs absolutely horrible. Feels like it stutters when it idles and when I push gas pedal I get the smell of gas and it wants to die. When pulling off upper lower intake unnoticed that the long screw to upper intake weren't all the way down in the back. I made sure to bolt them down tightly. I was told today to try and reset the computer by detaching the negative battery cable and using a wire to attach that detached cable to the power cable. Then to reattach, turn key to get accessories going for 10 sec, start and idle for te min, turn on lights for about 1 min, followed by radio and then ac. Then test drive for 10min or so. This may have made it worse??
I'm not a mechanic by any means but believe I hooked up everything correctly as it ran great for a day or 2. Also, a bit back I had P0107 bank one lean code pulled up. No engine light has ever come on. Have not had it rescanned since I replaced IAC and gaskets. Just don't know where to turn next. I also cleaned MAF, put in new air filter. 1998 explorer 4.0 SOHC....
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I own a '90 Honda Accord and it constantly shakes, has poor acceleration and seems to use too much gas. I thought it was the catalytic converter and I installed a high flow cat. The fuel pump went out so I had that replaced. It shakes less since replacing the cat but I still see the gas gauge go down too low when I press on the gas and the car will stall and stop as I get to "E" when normally I was able to drive many miles past "E". Any guesses? I'm wondering if I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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Since I have gotten my Sentra 2003 I have had issues with it. This past year my thermostat went about 6 weeks ago. I noticed that when my car would idle the engine would rev. Over the weekend I drove on the highway for 2 hours. When I started slowing the speed don I noticed that I could press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance. It came back up. I rolled into the toll plaza and stopped to pay the toll at which point I could shift the shifter into a gear but the car would not catch. No movement. I think my clutch mechanism needs to be fully replaced as the car has 115000 miles with the original still intact. IS that most likely the case and what am I looking at for the cost?
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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I just bought a 2006 Prius with one FOB. How do I know if my 2006 Prius is SKS?The fob unlocks the doors by pushing the button. There is no reaction to the FOB being in my pocket in trying to start the car. Is my FOB non-SKS but my Prius is?
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I have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
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My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
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