I have a 1995 BMW 318i and my gauges freak out when I drive or when I am stopped. All of them, not just one or two, like flip back and forth over and over and then eventually will return to their accurate readings. Then they do it again and again. It's not always the same how long they do it for and sometime they will go a whole day without doing it and then other days like today they just dont stop.
View 3 Replies2002 Grand Prix, 3.8L na motor, 187K miles. It was running perfectly until 4 days ago. initially, odd gauge stuff and flashing air bag light, then very, very slight engine skip with the tach gauge flipping around. 2 days ago, harder than usual starts ( a couple of seconds cranking instead of instant starts ), 1 day go, longer cranking in the morning, worse stuttering at highway speed. Afternoon, very hard start, stuttering right away, and then it would hardly start and quit after seconds. Gauges flipping and relays buzzing under the dash.
I had it towed home. Moving the key to run I didn't hear the fuel pump running. Checked the pressure at the rail, zero pressure. I removed the relay and jumped it to run the pump at high pressure. Fuel pump ran, pressure was 50-60lbs. Reinserted the relay, tried to start it and no change. I couldn't hear the pump running. Removed the relay and jumped the pump again, left it running and tried starting the car. Also no start.
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the ignition switch, PK3 system, BCM or PCM although I'm not sure which way to go with testing. I'm going to re-check the fuel pump and then start taking ignition switch out.
I am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
View 4 RepliesHad no problems until a month ago the car just stopped in the middle of driving it. It hasn't turned back on since. It cranks and sounds great, just won't turn over.
Here's everything we've changed so far:
spark plugs
ignition coils
fuel filter
fuel pump
fuel pump relay
crank shaft sensor
added gas
If there's something we're missing.
2003 Excursion 4x4 Limited v-10 gasoline engine powered
gauges stopped working
gauges dead
gauges not working
gauges
Coming home tonight, I lost all the instrument cluster gauges. Speedometer, tachometer, fuel, oil, temperature and transmission temperature.
So the logical thing to do was check both instrument cluster fuses, fuse 35 and fuse 41. They were both OK.
Kept looking and found fuse #45 blown, it's the "Ignition switch Run/ Start feed" fuse. It was blown.
Popped in a new one and gauges came back to life. I don't know why fuse #45 controls power to the instrument cluster gauges. Strange.
I have a 2010 Sonata. The fuel and temp gauges stopped working. Tank is full and engine temp is good. Both dont move when you turn the key on. Tried to find a fuse that they may be on but couldn't find it.
View 2 RepliesA few days ago my speedometer stopped working. Then yesterday all of my gauges stopped working, as well as my turn signals. If this is a fuse issue then which fuse it is?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Freestyle 140,000 miles, that has kind of a hiccup miss also there are times when all of the gauges drop and them come back up. I have had the car at the dealership twice and to another mechanic. When I took it to the dealership the first time they told me that it was the spark plugs and the number 1 coil also had a mouse nest in intake manifold. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil 1, clean intake and replaced gasket, replaced MAF, fuel rail sensor and EGR as the codes have been read.
Last time I picked it up from the mechanic it started missing in less than 10 miles to the dealership. The computer said nothing at first then the mechanic took a drive with it. He did have the gauges drop. The codes said charging system. My other mechanic check the battery said it was charging fine and that the alternator and battery cables are all good. Dealership and mechanic are at a loss for what to do.
Last night I was sitting in the car looking for a button that had lost. The car had not been driven all day, off, no key in the ignition. I heard the static noise that I have become familiar with and looked at the cluster and the gauges were all at the below their normal off position shaking and then stopped and returned to normal position. Should I change cables, battery and alternator even when tested they say that they are OK?
The check gauges light on my 1988 Cheyenne 4x4 is coming on and the oil pressure gauge is erratic back and forth from low to high pressure.
The vehicle is a 4.3L manual. Any likely cause or where to start with troubleshooting?
My '04 Passat 4Motion (station wagon) engine coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and outside temperature display all stopped working in the same time. Interestingly enough, car has 32K miles and just ran out of manufacturer warranty 2 months ago.
What could be happening? Should I be checking fuse box or this may be related to some more serious failure?
We have a 1999 F-350 V10 super duty. The alt was over charging and the gauges stopped working. Replacing the alt, the guages still don't work, and the new thing is the charge light and selt belt light comes on. The fuses 29 (5amp)and 30(30Amp) which are supposed to be key on hot only are hot at the same time. With these on, it causes a drain killing the battery. Also if the truck is started, the lights go out, but when you try to turn the vehicle off, it stays running, one with the battery disconnected. The only way to shut it down is pull the fuse box power fuse, 50(amp)Some one had been in the dash before we got this vehicle and busted, burned out or removed the check engine light. I can read codes and their vehicle runs fair and does operate. Could this be a dash board? Also this problem appears when the truck is sitting, and the key removed nothing on. No fuses are blown either.
View 3 RepliesMy father in-law gave us a 1996 explorer AWD with a 5.0 for my son who is 16. A couple of weeks later he's out learning with my wife and a very strong electrical smell took over the cabin. They came right home and when I got in I found all of the gauges not working. The instrument lights work, blinkers work, but all gauges do nothing. Pulled cluster and wires look O.K. behind it from what I can see. They saw no smoke, just smell, fuses look O.K.. What could cook on this vehicle that would wipe out just the gauges?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 4x4 with 7.3L diesel and a manual transmission. While driving home yesterday my gauges (fuel, temp, volts, oil pres) stopped working. Within a couple min the speedometer and the tach also stopped working, but the truck was still running fine. Within a couple miles the engine stopped running, just like I had turned the engine off.
After having it towed home I checked all the fuses, none are blown, but there is no power to fuse #16 (15A, instrument cluster, high beam head lamp). Also in the fuse box under the hood, again, no fuses are blown, but fuse #9 (left head lamp low beam) and #11 (right head lamp low beam) have no power to them.
My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
View 1 RepliesThe fuel gauge on my 2000 Blazer is flipping from empty to full. (Even as I drive down the road it moves.) And nothing in between. The fuel pump was replaced about a year and a half ago. I've been told the fuel pump controls the fuel gauge. So I'm wondering if there could be a loose contection or if this is a sign the pump will go bad again.
View 6 RepliesI did a search and see that this random clicking sound has been discussed but a source never identified. Thought I'd ask again 'cause mine is doing it more often and it's driving me nuts now that I hear it. Mostly at highway speeds, not tied to any particular function or steering wheel turning. It's like a solenoid flipping on and off. I know I could never get the dealer to replicate it and I assume if many Tregs have it, it's just a normal function but thought I'd ask.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesAs I drove down the freeway tonite all the dash lighting and gauges went dead for 2 seconds then it all came back to life. After every thing came back on the clock had been reset to 12:00 and all of the info in trip computer had been reset. Could this be a symptom of a bigger problem? What should I be looking for?
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