Impala - Chevrolet :: 2001 - Air Conditioner And Gauges Would Quit Working While Driving
Jul 14, 2014
I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
I got this car from someone and I just noticed none of the gauges on the dashboard work! Everything else works fine and the mileage still shows, engine notifications still show, etc.It's a 2005 Chevy Impala. What might be wrong?
View 3 Replies
2003 impala 3800 ... My battery drains if i leave it hooked up over night: and the gauges will sometimes start to click and flicker and move when the key is out of the ignition: I have changed batteries 3 times in 1 yr and checked the alternator, everything is fine, I'm tired of disconnecting my battery every night before bedtime..
View 11 Replies
Today, while driving on the highway, my heater just quit working. My car is equipped with the automatic climate controls and so I switched it to manual mode to see if the heat would come back. The heat does not seem to be mixing at all with the air.
One weird thing is that if I set the temperature to 90 degrees then the A/C mode will turn off and blow pure hot air. However, if I go to 89 degrees then the heat will stop and the A/C will turn on again. Turning off the A/C manually does not bring the heat back.
What could be wrong? I might just try unplugging and reconnecting the controls since I was messing with the radio a couple of days ago.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
View 14 Replies
The interior lights, radio, and power window gauges and the ignition buzzer on my 2002 F350 quit working. What could cause this? Everything else still works.
View 7 Replies
Ihave a 2004 F350 4x4 Dually diesel. While in my hay field I hit a small rut and the truck bounced. About two seconds later all gauges and lights/windows quit working and the truck ran rough. I have a Banks system and it registered a code 33. Maybe 32 error. Book says it is an airbag deployment. They did not deploy. So I drove out of the field and turned it off to see if that would reset the gauges. No, not only that but the gauges all swept the faces from off to full to off and the truck would not start, just chatter.
I disconnected both batteries and waited. Reconnected and it started, but the gauges quit after 10 seconds..... Everything flatlined even the banks IQ. But the truck kept on running. Got back to the ranch and the batteries went flat overnight... Charged them up, starts fine gauges work but alternator puts out 11.5.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2003 Chevy Impala LS with 120,000 miles, equipped with sentinel lighting. Recently, the instrument cluster lights along with the lighted controls on the door panels and steering wheel stopped working leaving me unable to see the speedometer while driving at night. All controls seem work properly. I did some internet research and it appears there are several causes and/or fixes out there. I would like to have one or two more probable approaches than just throw money and time at a trial and error approach.
View 9 Replies
I replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator and have the same problem. it can idle just fine but it gets hot driving less than 15 minutes. There are no visible leaks.
View 7 Replies
There is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Impala with about 122,000 miles on it. On my recent fill up I by accident put in mid grade over the normal unleaded, now I now that won't cause any engine issues that I am aware of, but after doing this fill up my gas gauge is not working properly. When I start the car in the morning the gauge will go to where it should given the mileage I have driven to this point but as I drive the car the gauge goes up to almost full then down some but never back to where it should be. what might be causing this floating incorrect reading by my gas gauge.
View 19 Replies
I just installed a replacement Hazard Switch because the directional "blinker" light stopped working (after only working sporadically for a while). This particular switch is probably made in China. Hazards now working normally (with a blink rate of a little better than 1 Hz .. just like it used to work). Directional "blinker" lights - however - are also working, but at a very fast rate: probably 3+Hz. Why this might be? I'm pretty sure the directionals and the Hazards blinked at the same rate with the original switch. Maybe a side-effect of a cheap Chinese switch? I did check both tail lights and they're working for both Directionals and Hazards, but can't get over the difference in flash rate between the two. Doesn't give me a good feeling that this switch will last.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 Impala LS with around 114,000 miles. I noticed today that the control switch that turns on the AC or heat is not fully working right. My switch has 5 levels, and on levels 1 and 2 nothing happens. But when I switch to levels 3-4 or 5 it works just fine.
My question is is fixing this going to involve removing the entire dash from the car? My guess it's a contact issue, and figure it might be pricy to get repaired.
View 5 Replies
My remote controls just stop working. 2006 Chevrolet Impala LTZ .
View 10 Replies
2001 Chevy Impala. Blinkers only work occasionally. I suspect it has something to do with the tilt steering causing a short in the connection. Just bought the car and trying to work out some of the bugs.
View 2 Replies
For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
View 4 Replies
Two weeks ago starting jerking badly. Father said to check tranny fluid. It was low. Added more. A week later starting jerking again but not as severely as it did the week prior. Checked the fluid and it was fine. The next day didn't jerk at all...it didn't jerk at all until a week after that. I was out and about so before I left the parking lot I was in to go home, I shifted through all the gears on the column. Took off from the parking lot and the jerking stopped completely. Is my tranny slowly dying? No warning lights have come on yet (so is there a code to check?). Going to take it to a local transmission shop but wanted to get any other info I could. The tranny was flushed about 20k miles ago. It currently has about 145k miles on it.
View 1 Replies
My 2003 Chevy Imapala went over some large water puddles and shortly after a check engine light came out. My local auto store did a check and stated there is a possible problem with a senor. If the senor got wet, could it even give the computer a good reading? Would it probably give a totally different reading once it dries?
View 4 Replies
My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
View 1 Replies
