Chevrolet - Cobalt :: 2010 - Parking Brake Light Comes On / Speedo And RPM Gauges Stop Working
Nov 6, 2011
I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
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I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 5 speed manual with 49k miles. For the last year the car idles rough at stop lights when the A/C or heater is turned on. The rough idling is not continuous but intermittent with the rpm falling just below 500 and returning to just under 1000. This is accompanied by a shuddering, as if the car is about to stall out. I should also mention that the car has a tendency to stall when rolling to a stop in 1st or 2nd gear. The check engine light comes on sporadically during fast acceleration, usually on a steep incline, when driving on the highway on ramp. A recent diagnostic indicated the need to replace the fuel filter and clean the fuel system, including the throttle body. Had these things done, but I'm still having the same issues with the car. I mentioned this to my mechanic and he said it may be a loose hose.
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A week ago today my Low Beams stopped working, I turned on my car and they flashed on like normal, then a split second later went out; Just as the sun was setting too.
After finding a place to leave my car and hitching a ride home, I went back the next day to check it out.
Checked and double checked all the fuses, all were ok (I checked every single fuse, not just the lo beams)Checked all the wire connections to ensure they are tight.Replaced the light bulbs, still nothing.Ordered a new Headlight Switch, and just installed it today, Low Beams still don't work.
My High Beams, Blinkers, Hazards, Break Lights, and Daylights all work, just not my Low Beams, any clues as to what might the problem be?
2009 Chevy Cobalt, Just under 100k Miles
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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My wife recently got stuck in a snowstorm. Some people got her out and she drove a couple miles to work. After leaving work, her car started shaking at red lights (like big, slow shakes, back and forth, not making forward progress), but stopped as soon as she started to move or put the car in neutral. It did this on her way home from work and then continued when she left for a workout class about half an hour later. However, after this, it stopped completely.
Some people seemed to suggest engine mount problems to other people, which seems serious if it is that. However, since it did stop after a short time, is it possible there was snow stuck somewhere causing a problem and it finally just melted off? Or is the getting stuck in snow the same day probably just a coincidence? It seems odd that it would stop once the brake is let up.
Right now I'm planning to take it in sometime later this week most likely, but am wondering if I can avoid that since it hasn't exhibited any of the same symptoms for a few days. The car is a 2010 Chevy Cobalt.
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When Idling or at low speeds my engine has been surging. When idling it surges with no changes in rpm's but the car shakes and can bee seen and felt. When at low speeds I also get a surge but the rpms will jump up and down. If I drive with the A/C on it cuts the surging down significantly. I had a friend of mine read out the check engine light codes. The are P0010- CAM POS Actuator malfunction, P0011 Cam pos actuator over retarded, C0300 random misfire, C0700 transmission control malfunction. I looked some things up online and they were saying to replace some cam shaft sensors and etc.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
The MAF had to be replaced, while the car was at the dealer the power steering motor was replaced (recall). When I got the car back the steering motor (reman) was making a lot of noise and I took it back. This time the motor and the steering column were replaced. After a week I got the car back last night.
This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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I've got a noise I'm trying to diagnose on our 2010 Cobalt. Thought I'd ask about it here before heading to a mechanic.
When I hit about 35 mph I start to hear a hum sound that we've never heard before (my wife says she can here it at slower speeds, but I can't). The sound gets higher in pitch as the car speed increases. The RPMs don't affect it (i.e. when the car shifts gears, no change in the sound).
If I shift into neutral and take my foot off the gas, the sound doesn't change (except dropping in pitch as I slow down).Seems to be tied entirely to the speed of the car, not related to RPMs, throttle, etc.
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My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
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The little green light on my Parking brake button does not illuminate when i push the button to let me know if its on and I am also getting a message on my dash saying Check Parking brake system and have vehicle checked by a dealer. What my problem could be before I take the vehicle to a dealer? Apparently the automatic parking brake is not working at all and the little green light doesnt light up when the button is pressed. I have a 07 ls460 with 112k
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I just installed a stereo in my daughter's 2010 Accent and tapped into the emergency brake wire to disable the DVD option when the emergency brake is engaged. Everything works fine except that the emergency brake light on the dash stays on dimly after releasing the emergency brake.
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I bought my Prius in November 2010. I replaced my headlights about three months ago when the right one went out. It went out again a few days ago. Then suddenly the diver side went out 2 days later. I also noticed that the right side parking light is out. The only lights that work are the high beams. I did check the fuses.
iPad ? HD ?
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I inherited this car from my parents a couple years ago with about 80,000 miles. It ran great for awhile, then the air conditioner and the gauges would quit working while driving. After a few minutes they would resume working and everything would go back to normal. Now it will start sometimes and will not start at other times. I have replaced the battery two times and it seemed to work for a short period. I have had several mechanics look at it. After checking the code and replacing a fuse or sensor and replacing the ignition switch the car is still doing the same thing and no one has a clue what is going on. It seems to me that it may happen more often when going over a bump. What could be causing this?
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2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser. While driving, it seems at random, all gauges drop and stop working, no gas getting to the car, power loss. Sometimes lasts a split second, sometimes lasts up to 30 seconds. The car will even stall here and there, but usually not. Usually, power gets restored. But sometimes the car won't even start for an extended period of time. Of course, when the mechanic takes it for a ride it does nothing wrong.
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2003 F250 Gas Superduty: My gauges, windows and radio will all stop/start working at will. Does not matter hot/cold rain/shine moving/idle. Sometimes quickly on off, sometimes hours at a time.
I have been researching for months trying not to take to dealer. Have used elec. connection spray to clean most plug connections. New battery. Cable to battery connections very clean.
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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i have a 1988 2.4L 185,000+ miles chevy s10 pu. the check gauges light has been coming on for some time. the gauge bounces up and down a lot. but settles to 20psi at driving speeds. there is no tapping or noises from the engine and has good power and oil. what should i have check
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I have an '01 Impala, 3.8 engine with 200k miles. Whenever the engine idles, at a stop, or in a parking spot, the idle will drop, then the car will stall. It will start right back up, but unless you are actively pressing the accelerator, the same thing occurs. There's no sputtering or performance issues, and nothing to indicate that it's about to stall. I've replaced the IAC valve, AND the EGR valve. Still having the same issue.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 2001 Suburban? It is a 2wd 1500 model.
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I'm having trouble with the headlights on my 2003 Chevy Tracker. When it's light out, my headlights come on automatically when I release the parking brake, but turn off if I turn the switch that would normally turn them on. When it is dark out, or I drive under a bridge etc, they turn off and I can't manually turn them on. I can "flash" my headlights, but if I turn them on as if to leave them on, they don't turn on. This problem started about the same time that my AC blower stopped working, so I replaced the blower motor resistor and all fuses (I've heard that the blower motor resistor is also involved with the headlights). This fixed the AC, but had no effect on the headlights.
I can trick the lights into turning on at night only by shining a bright light directly on the sensor - they turn back off as soon as I remove the light. I took it to Pep Boys for a basic electrical diagnostic to see if I might be missing something silly, but once I described the problem they wouldn't even bother - told me to take it to the dealer and have the body regulator module reprogrammed.
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I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
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