Every time the dew point is up (that happens nearly daily here in WA) the brakes squeal the first time I step on them. After the 2nd stop the squealing stops. Service center has said that it's the brakes themselves; that they are steel and so develop rust and that causes the squealing. Can I replace these brakes with something that doesn't squeal?
View 1 RepliesMy Superduty will randomly squeel for a few seconds or just one. It seems to happen randomly. The hub doesn't have play.
View 1 RepliesI am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
Just replaced pads, rotors, caliper hardware, e-brake shoes and hardware and rear wheel bearing assembly on 2006 Santa Fe. Still get a high pitch sound after the car warms up in 5-10 miles. Sound is intermittent and gets somewhat louder as you drive.
View 2 RepliesI've got a 2001 Honda Civic, automatic, that has a nice (what I think) belt squeal going. It seems to happen when it's wet/cold, in the lower gears/RPMs, when the defroster and/or rear defroster are on. SOMETIMES it will stop when I turn off the defrosters. If it persists I can make it stop by quickly putting it in park (at a light or stop sign) and right back into D or if moving gunning it for a few seconds. Occasionally I do get a hot rubber smell (like a burning vacuum belt) coming through as I accelerate. So as someone with no real car knowledge, does this sound like a belt issue that I can take care or myself (i.e. belt tensioner and a gauge) or should I just leave it to the pros?
View 2 RepliesMy mother went out 2 days ago to go run errands, she stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor (car still in garage and in park, low mileage car 81,xxx garage kept). I have not been able to duplicate the issue. The fluid has been changed twice since new, no signs of fluid loss, undercarriage inspection revealed nothing. I am thinking maybe a vacuum hose issue.
View 2 RepliesTrying to figure this out...no luck yet.
I have a 2001 Expedition (5.4L V8). The ABS light has been on for some time. I finally got around to reading the code, and it reported "B1185 - Antilock Brake System Power Relay Output Circuit Malfunction". I have read and found information on the C1185 code, which sounds similar, but very little on the B1185. Not sure what to try.
What I have done thus far is replace the rear ABS sensor that is located on the rear differential. No change. I also replaced all four rotors and pads, but that was due to a pulsing during braking caused by a warped rotor. The pulsing was cured after replacing the rotors, but the ABS light remained unchanged. I removed both front wheel ABS sensors, and thoroughly cleaned them with brake-parts cleaner. Still no change. I have checked the fuse under that dash for the ABS system, and it is fine.
What to try next? I really didn't want to just start blindly shotgunning parts because I don't understand what B1185 really means. Perhaps someone else has seen this on their truck/expedition?
I had a problem with my brakes about 4 months ago. They were making a barking noise when I stepped on the brake pedal. The dealer bled the brakes and reflashed software. Now the problem is back and they say I probably new a new brake actuator. It should be covered by the extended warranty. I hope a new actuator will fix this. I like everything else about the car. (Have 37,000 miles)
View 16 RepliesBrake pedal to the floor... And a lot of fluid on the ground.
I was coming home (empty fortunately) last evening when I noticed the brake pedal give an initial resistance, then slowly sank all the way to the floorboard when slowing down to turn onto my street. When I got to the house, I noticed a hissing sound each time as the depressed brake pedal sank to the floor. When I got out, there was a lot of brake fluid on the ground on the left rear side. It appears to be between the fuel tank and frame rail. From the side it is the section between the fuel filler to just ahead of the left rear wheel. The tank and frame rail is drenched and dripping DOT 3.
I am lucky to not have been pulling my 5th wheel when this happened! However, I have a camping trip coming up in a few weeks, but now my TV is broken. What has happened, and an estimate for repairs? Where is the best place to have it fixed, dealer or specialty shop? I just bought this vehicle in January and it has 102,500 miles, and came complete with full and meticulous repair records. The P.O. was incredible at upkeep, so this is something curious and flukey to me. But do I need to worry about the other side now, too?
I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
I heard some weird sounds, it sounded like some metal dropping on concrete, when I stepped on the brake while making turns. I know in the manual it says "Sounds may be heard due to regenerative braking when the brake pedal is depressed." in P.28, but was the sound normal?
View 5 RepliesMy car is a 1999 Honda Civic.
This morning I went in for a state inspection, oil change and rear brake replacement. Driving home while going downhill on the highway, I hit the brakes - and they failed completely. At first it felt like the car actually bucked forward. I tried flooring the brake, but felt no resistance and the car didn't stop. I kept my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop.
The tow truck driver told me he could feel a problem just getting the car onto the tow truck, and again when he took it off.
The Honda place checked it and did a test drive, found nothing.They said it couldn't be air in the brakes be took me for a short test drive and assured me I'd be fine. The
I headed home again and the brakes failed again at almost the same spot. This time it wasn't a complete failure. After no resistance at first, the brakes "caught" though somewhat mushily. I put on my flashers and kept going, at about 45 mph. Got off the highway and had to crawl because braking wasn't taking effect immediately. But as I drove on at 10 mph, they began working again. Not as well as they should, but enough to get me home.
It seems the brakes fail after 15 - 20 minutes of driving at 65 mph. They work better after a rest and at slower speeds.
If it makes a difference, my compressor is gone, so the car doesn't have a/c, and it is hot out so I'm wondering if the heat is affecting something. However, I haven't had these brake problems until today.
I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
The parking brake on my 99 honda civic won't fully disengage. If you use it when you go to put the lever down it pops back up slightly. Just barely one click and sometimes not even that. I just replaced the rear brake drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and it was badly needed. I thought that this would solve my parking brake problem as well, but after I got everything back together and the car on the road the problem persisted.
I saw in the Hayne's manual for the car the parking brake can be adjusted from underneath the armrest. So would an adjustment fix my problem? If loosened would the brake stay down when not in use and still work when I need it? I also saw as part of the procedure the manual has you put the rear end on jack stands. If you are just tightening or loosening a cable why would the back wheels need to be off the ground? Is this absolutely necessary?
I got into our car (2013 RX 450h) and the seat was completely pushed back. I had been the last (and only ) driver of our car and had not adjusted the seat. I managed to reach the brake pedal, started the car, pushed the L1 seating position and my seat re-adjusted. I then put the car into Drive and when I stepped on the accelerator, it would not move.
The parking brake was not on, there was nothing obstructing the car. I turned it off, turned it on again and it was then fine. I had last driven it 3 days prior, the battery was fine, the outside temperature was registered as 30 degrees, so not excessively cold. We park in a garage although it is not entirely closed off from the outside air.
Experienced this with the car no moving despite being in drive and stepping on accelerator?
My car, a 2009 Civic, has started sounding like an airplane when I brake, just in the last day or so. Sometimes the noise continues for a little bit after I'm off the brake and moving again, but mostly not. Obviously, I'm going to get it in to the shop, but my question is do I need to take off work and do it today / tomorrow (Tuesday / Wednesday), or will it probably be OK if I wait until Saturday morning?
View 12 RepliesWhat seems to cause this problem of the ABS and brake light coming on at the same time intermittently. I can go an hour or so then pop -- then come on. Its a 2001 with a 5.3 in it.
View 3 RepliesLast week while I was on vacation I had the battery light and brake light on the dash both come on at the same time. Just as these came on I was driving through some water on the road from a heavy storm that had happened earlier in the day. As I drove through, the lights came on at the same time and I lost power steering as well, after about 15 - 30 seconds both lights went off and everything was normal. It happened again later that day as well, same scenario, driving through some water, both lights came on, and no power steering. The lights once again went out after a short period, 15 seconds or so. What might be causing this? I was thinking maybe the alternator is going bad but I have not seen any other issues, lights dimming or things like that.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7L V6 with about 94000 miles.
I replaced my front pads/rotors after the dealership suggested same. I went with NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I applied the high temp brake grease to the pad ends and shims, but forgot to install the two "V" spring clamps on the left front pads. The sliding caliper bolts seemed free, but I didn't clean them (I should have and will do so if I tear the brakes back down). I bedded the pads by doing 30mph to almost stops 3 or 4 times then 45mph to almost stops 1 or 2 times...not sure if that was enough based on reading other posts on how to bed.
I now have a slight squeal and not sure if it's due to a lack of those V clamps or if I didn't bed the pads correctly or other. Thoughts? Can the pads be "re-bed" if I boofed it up the first time? I'm about to do the rear rotors/pads and want to do it right.
The X stops OK, but I thought it would be more aggressive than it is with the pad/rotor combo I installed. I tow a ~8,000# TT and want good stopping power.
My friend's Jetta was running fine. One day about to drive out of the driveway it started doing 2 things:
1. Felt like it lost power braking, just stopping by manual effort by pushing down pedal hard.
2. Engine stalling unless you keep the gas pedal depressed and holding the engine to about 3,000.
Car currently sidelined until this is fixed... Having the brakes go like that at the same time is strange so where to start. Brake fluid level is fine.