1994 corvette auto trans, when car is parked or in drive with foot on the brake will start to idle up, the back down and like lunge forward if in drive and foot on the brake. Then if you drive it, and step on it, it will miss fire. My mechanis put it on his scanner but it showed no problems. The opti- spark, wires, plugs were replaced 2 years ago and 12,000 miles ago.
View 8 RepliesI am having a couple issues with my 94 Corvette with Auto Transmission with 107k miles.. First, when I am coming to a stop, from like 2 mph to full stop, I am getting like a clunking that sounds and feels like it is coming from behind me and to the right (from rear middle of the car). It does Not do this if I shift into neutral b4 I get to low speeds.
The second problem is, I got caught in a very heavy rain last weekend, and the digital speedometer area started blinking off and on about once or twice per second, and the "idiot light" panel lit up like a Christmas tree. The car started sputtering but never stalled out...it was almost if it was turning itself off and on repeatedly. I pulled over under a canopy, and waited out the brief but intense downpour, and its been fine ever since (about 100 miles), but it has only been driven in nice weather since. I checked the battery connections (and that's about it) and they were tight and clean.
1994 Toyota pickup... Engine misses intermittently both at idle and throughout rpm range. Cap and rotor clean,plugs read nice light brown fuel burn color- would injector cleaner in gas work.....
View 3 RepliesI have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
View 13 Replies1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Corvette has 17,000 gentle miles on it. At around 15,000 miles I found that I couldn't get the car into 5th gear. It has a grinding metallic sound. All the other gears and the clutch work fine - and I've been forced to shift from 4th to 6th.
View 5 RepliesI own a sweet 2008 Corvette with 31,000 miles. I have only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Every spring, after the winter hibernation, I change the oil despite having only 5,000 to 6,000 miles between oil changes. My question is, should I continue to change the oil once a year or can I wait to change it at the 10,000 mile interval.
View 11 RepliesMy car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
View 1 RepliesBeen fighting a starting problem for months with a 1976 Corvette. Car starts fine on first try, but if I shut off the engine, it won't crank again for hours, usually overnight. All I get is a buzzer noise when I turn the key - no starting motor noises. This happens no matter how long the engine has run, be it 30 seconds or an hour, so I don't thing the starting motor is getting hot. Car has a new battery and alternator - that didn't solve anything. What to check or replace next? Starting motor? Solinoid? Ignition switch? By the way, the car has a manual transmission.
View 6 RepliesMy truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a 94 C2500 suburban with a TBI 454BB. Obviously, I'm not concerned with fuel mileage, but I am currently getting about 4 miles to the gallon because the idle is stuck at 1800RPM. Normal idle for my model according to the index book is 750RPM. it's usually pretty close to that when operating normally (+/-25RPM). 3 days ago I did my biannual throttle body cleaning. Took it completely off replaced the gasket cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. This is when the problem started... It now idles at 2300 RPM, it threw the code for bad idle air control valve, and I figured I probably got the plug wet when cleaning the throttle body, so I went ahead and ate the 60 bucks and replaced it.
Went through the reset process for the ECM to learn the new one and it the idle has come down to 1800RPM, it also literally DUMPING fuel through the injectors into the top of the throttle body. While I don't believe it is actually running rich, it seems more like the idle is trying to compensate for the excess fuel that is being dumped into the top end. Now, Before I go any further I want someone else's input. "I" think it is a also a bad throttle position sensor that probably got wet when cleaning the TB. But I am worried it could also be the PCM has finally gone out, although this is probably not likely because the entire ignition is run by this and if it was bad, it would stand to reason that it wouldn't run at all. Or it could be a bad vacuums control module. I have checked all my vacuum lines and do not have any leaks, so I know that isn't the problem. So that's where I am. I am hoping to check the leads on the TPS today with a ohm meter. I know my resistance levels.
94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
View 6 RepliesI placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
View 6 RepliesMy gas pedal wont work at all on my 1975 chevy malibu it feels like something slipped off when I stepped on it this morning....
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1994 C-1500 4.3L with a 4L60E transmission. After driving for 30-40 minutes it loses 1st gear and you have to manually shift between gears. R, 2, D and OD can be manually selected but there is no automatic up or down shifting. There isn't any gear slipping prior to this. After sitting for 25-30 minutes everything works fine. I have noticed that sometimes before the problem occurs that if i manually select 1st gear it will stay in 1st & sometimes it will automatically shift to 2nd even though the gear selector is in 1st. Also it usually shifts into D at about 30 mph but sometimes it stays in 2nd until I manually shift down to 2nd and back up to D. It isn't giving any relevant codes (use jumper & flash codes). I'm thinking possibly faulty solenoid(s), but not sure.
View 2 Replies2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
94 Mazda B4000. V6 4x4 manual
After engine has ran about an hour, I make a stop at location, then on startup engine has a hard time staying idle after engine it's warm. Cold start idles fine, hot start it dies out. I must rev gas for truck to stay on. What could this be?