Chevrolet - Corvette :: 1985 - After Charging Dead Battery Car Won't Restart - Residual Theft Prevention System?
Oct 25, 2013
I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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My dad's Gen III has been sitting garaged for almost a year now, and of course the 12 volt battery is dead. Firstly, it's sitting in a one car garage, and secondly I have a Gen II so a straight jump isn't possible. I have a trickle charger that should be able to bring the 12 volt back up in 15-19 hours, but here's my question:
Maybe I'm being lazy, but I'd rather not deal with climbing in the back to release the hatch and running an extension cord so I can get the charger close enough to hook straight up to the battery..
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This 2005 LeSabre with a 3.8 v-6 ran fine but had a marginal battery. Then the key got left on overnight leaving the battery totally dead. After jumping the battery and letting it charge, the engine cranked fine but refused to start. Haven't had a chance to check for fuel or spark. Why would a dead battery trigger this no start condition?
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I was messing with the battery in my 200 Ford Ranger the other day and must of arc something. I know this because after plugging my battery back up my radio fuse was blown and my alternator was killed. I replaces the radio fuse, that works now, and got a new remanufacted alternator (tested mine at Advance it was dead). I installed it and nothing changed. The battery still wasn't charging. I know the battery is good because I tested it at Advance Auto. I took the alternator back and the shop replaced it with another remanufacted one. Same thing, installed it and the battery doesn't charge.
This time I took the alt back off and had it tested at Advance. The alt was dead. So I don't know if the part store gave me TWO bad alternators or if my truck is killing them. I find it hard to believe it could kill them immediately but my automotive knowledge is not that vast. I took the second (third counting my original) dead alternator back and they gave me a brand new one no extra charge. So I don't want to put a brand new alt in my truck and it kill this one too because I doubt they will give me a fourth one. What is going on? Could it just be as simple as I got two bad eggs?
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2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
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This has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
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So I have a very confusing problem. In my 92 Chevy Astro the battery occasionally stops charging runs down and dies while I am driving and will not restart via jump but must be fully charged. This first happened a couple months and several thousand miles ago but has occurred 3 times in the last two weeks. Both the battery and the alternator have checked out good, and the alternator belt is tight as a drum. What could this possibly be?
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My nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
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I have a 1994 checy silverado 2500 with 3 year old battery, alternator, and starter. I left the car for a week and came back and the battery was dead and needed a jump start. Charged up and sat for 3 days and dead again. I check for lights on and nothing.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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I am having a couple issues with my 94 Corvette with Auto Transmission with 107k miles.. First, when I am coming to a stop, from like 2 mph to full stop, I am getting like a clunking that sounds and feels like it is coming from behind me and to the right (from rear middle of the car). It does Not do this if I shift into neutral b4 I get to low speeds.
The second problem is, I got caught in a very heavy rain last weekend, and the digital speedometer area started blinking off and on about once or twice per second, and the "idiot light" panel lit up like a Christmas tree. The car started sputtering but never stalled out...it was almost if it was turning itself off and on repeatedly. I pulled over under a canopy, and waited out the brief but intense downpour, and its been fine ever since (about 100 miles), but it has only been driven in nice weather since. I checked the battery connections (and that's about it) and they were tight and clean.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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My 2003 Corvette has 17,000 gentle miles on it. At around 15,000 miles I found that I couldn't get the car into 5th gear. It has a grinding metallic sound. All the other gears and the clutch work fine - and I've been forced to shift from 4th to 6th.
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I own a sweet 2008 Corvette with 31,000 miles. I have only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Every spring, after the winter hibernation, I change the oil despite having only 5,000 to 6,000 miles between oil changes. My question is, should I continue to change the oil once a year or can I wait to change it at the 10,000 mile interval.
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I recently bought a 1969 chevy c10 pickup. I have been having problems with the electrical system, the battery consistently going dead despite a new battery and alternator installed by the previous owner. Is there a step-by-step for diagnosis of this problem?
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2007 Monte Carlo has a dead battery after a couple of days sitting. We've un connected alarm, etc still dies its a new battery. They say I don't drive it enough.
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My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
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Been fighting a starting problem for months with a 1976 Corvette. Car starts fine on first try, but if I shut off the engine, it won't crank again for hours, usually overnight. All I get is a buzzer noise when I turn the key - no starting motor noises. This happens no matter how long the engine has run, be it 30 seconds or an hour, so I don't thing the starting motor is getting hot. Car has a new battery and alternator - that didn't solve anything. What to check or replace next? Starting motor? Solinoid? Ignition switch? By the way, the car has a manual transmission.
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My 2010 Prius sat idle, parked for 7 days while my wife and I were on vacation. When we went to pick up the car, the airport valet said that the Prius wouldn't start, and so that they'd have to jump it. I approved the jumpstart, and got into the car. We got about 1/4 a mile before the display totally freaked out, including the "check hybrid system" as well as about every warning light there is. The car was beeping, acceleration was lost and it eventually died on the side of the road. The car would not start back up.
Had it towed to the nearest dealership. Initial diag from the service manager was that the 12v battery was dead. I approved replacement of that, and also authorized clearing out "a few software alerts". Got a call later in the day from the same manager (very nice guy) and there are about 11 errors that cannot be cleared out. Now he's asking for 3-4 hours labor to "trace the wiring" as suggested by Toyota. Apparently the tech had been in touch with them all day.
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1994 corvette auto trans, when car is parked or in drive with foot on the brake will start to idle up, the back down and like lunge forward if in drive and foot on the brake. Then if you drive it, and step on it, it will miss fire. My mechanis put it on his scanner but it showed no problems. The opti- spark, wires, plugs were replaced 2 years ago and 12,000 miles ago.
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