Hyundai :: Dead Battery Locks Security System
Jul 26, 2011
My nearly new Hyundai Sante Fe sat in the garage for 18 days while I was away. On return the battery was dead. The auto assistance truck came to restart the car. His portable charger did nothing except make the emergency horn honk continuously while connected to the battery. We rolled the car back to the truck and hooked up to the big charger on-board. This, too, caused the emergency horn honking for several minutes until the key start worked. The explanation suggested was that the security system drained the battery, and that locked the security system. The dealer's maintenance supervisor said "all new cars do this" and suggested I could disconnect the battery while it is parked for a "long time" and then reconnect. Maybe, but what a hassle and what if you can't open the electronic door lock to get to the hood release, to proceed. Is this really the state of things now?
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Took my '08 F450 super duty into a reputable snow plow dealership and had them install a brand new plow on my truck. They phoned me this morning to say that the truck's security system does not recognize the key, possibly caused by the fact that they had to disconnect the battery during the plow install. So now my truck is stuck at their shop ! Just hoping I don't have to get it towed to a Ford dealership.
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My 2010 Prius sat idle, parked for 7 days while my wife and I were on vacation. When we went to pick up the car, the airport valet said that the Prius wouldn't start, and so that they'd have to jump it. I approved the jumpstart, and got into the car. We got about 1/4 a mile before the display totally freaked out, including the "check hybrid system" as well as about every warning light there is. The car was beeping, acceleration was lost and it eventually died on the side of the road. The car would not start back up.
Had it towed to the nearest dealership. Initial diag from the service manager was that the 12v battery was dead. I approved replacement of that, and also authorized clearing out "a few software alerts". Got a call later in the day from the same manager (very nice guy) and there are about 11 errors that cannot be cleared out. Now he's asking for 3-4 hours labor to "trace the wiring" as suggested by Toyota. Apparently the tech had been in touch with them all day.
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I placed my Corvette with a consignment seller this summer. When he had no action, I took the car back but...battery dead. Fully recharged it, car started immediately (first time in 2-months) but then died and will not restart. My ace mechanic has replaced fuel pump, distributer, but no fire. Indication is weak/no signal at he injectors. Could this be residual Theft Prevention system? I had that fail years ago and I pulled the module and the car has done fine for 4-years, until now.
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I have my toyota pirus 2008 and i'm facing problem with it electric door locks. it's Security light flashing on the dash and the electric door locks won't unlock from the inside of the car but will lock. so i'm looking for a locking for locksmith who can solve it asap.
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I am new to a 2005 camry SE V6 3.3 lt, Today tested the security system by; locking the doors using the keyfob and waiting for 30 seconds for the system to arm itself then opening the door from inside the car. No alarm went off !!
The security Red LED on the dash works properly and shows no sign of malfunction. I am not sure how to start troubleshooting.
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Over the past few days I've been working on the car, a Canadian 2014 Elantra L 6-speed, in an attempt to install the keyless entry system into it.
- I found a wiring diagram online and for the most part its been working, gotten the tail lights/siren and just about every feature working excluding the doors themselves locking and unlocking.
From what I can tell, in order to get the mechanism to operate correctly a relay is needed and needs to be hooked up into, correct me if I'm wrong as the car isn't with me currently, Plug A and B (59 Pin and 24 Pin). However no matter the amount of configurations I have tried, it just will not work.
*Do not care for the trunk opening operation.
**The system I currently have is a Spy la-3 Pke keyless system.
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First my security system started going off for no reason.Second the odometer quit working (it will go forward a few miles and then back a few miles).Third the running lights and headlights started flashing on and off. Not at a paticular interval but it seems to be as the "security warning light" flashes on and off. It is currently at Performance Chevrolet in Elizabeth City, NC and they have not been able to determine the problem. It has approximately 90,000 miles on it.
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It appears that the security system is somehow shut down. None of buttons on wireless FOB [main key] is working to open the door etc. even though the red indicator lights up. If I use the key, it opens the doors fine. The powerdoor controls inside the car are working fine. I did notice that security light on the dashboard is not blinking anymore.
The car was idle for three-four weeks and it didn't start so I gave a jump with portable unit. Could that do any damage to fuse etc.?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry XLE V6 and recently I went to unlock the door with the key and the car honked once; the horn hasn't gone off since when I tried unlocking the door again. I never use the key fob to lock or unlock the door just the key. I did call the dealership and they told me it was the security system activating, which I thought was funny since it never honked for the all years I used the key to lock and unlock the car. So my question is... is the dealership right? Should the car honk when I unlock the car with the master key?
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I have done 2 searches but came up with nothing regarding a 2010 LS 460L. My security system indicator lights are flashing 24/7 regardless of the car being locked or not. Page 113 is not very clear about how to shut them off. I played with so many buttons yesterday after we got home with the car I may have triggered something without even knowing it. I do not recall that they were doing that yesterday when we picked the car up.
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My 2008 Camry XLE(No after market systems) has locked out my dad several times now when he's parked and left the vehicle. We replaced his keyless remote dongle battery with a new one just in case. The light that blinks a red key on the dash to indicate the key is nearby turns solid red. I've yet to be the one locked out, but can't imagine what he'd do to lock it out as he's mechanically and electronically savvy. Can't reproduce the problem.
The only way we can get it to unlock the inhibitor is to jump the car battery. The dealer claims that we should only have to walk away from the vehicle out of range of the remote and back into range for the inhibitor to "untrip". I don't believe them because we replaced the car battery one time and it tripped the system and we had to get a jump even then to unlock it.
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This is a pretty strange situation. A couple of years ago, my automatic locks stopped working consistently in hot weather. Sometimes they'll work and sometimes they won't, but the worst thing is that they are inconsistent. I only have this problem in the summertime or on really warm days in the spring or fall (I live in Colorado). What could cause this?
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I have a Lexus RX 330 2006. Two days ago my key couldn't start the car he stuck inside the ignition. I ordered a locksmith guy and he open the auto meter so he can get to the ignition. Now the ignition working but when I try to start the car the car doesn't start. The security system turn on and off , it's seem like the car doesn't recognize the key, the guy also make a new key and program the car but still the car is not charging, I also order mechanics to see if somethings wrong with the car and he didn't see any problem . I think the car shut down and I need professional guy who know how to program the car...
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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My 2008 Hyundai Elantra likes to play KeepAway.
The driver's door randomly locks itself when I get out of the car. Just the driver's door. I have learned either to make sure the others are unlocked or to take my keys with me, even if it's just to pump gas.
Might this be some easily replaceable or resettable circuitry, or do I just have to live with it?
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I just installed the Hyundai factory Remote Engine Start in my 2011 Elantra GLS and have a problem that the hazard lights come on and stay on when unlocking/unarming the car. To repeat, this is the genuine Hyundai Accessory Remote Start/Security kit (3X056 ADU00), not a third party offering. Everything that the kit is supposed to do, WORKS as specified, including remote start. The only problem is that when I use the key fob to unlock/disarm the system, the emergency flashers/hazard lights come on and stay on until I turn them off from the inside or until I toggle lock/unlock for the key fob a few times.
I've been through the wiring a dozen times, and am absolutely certain that the kit is wired correctly -- again all features work. Now, I find it interesting that NONE of the wiring of the kit (based on the schematic) comes close to touching a circuit that is identified as hazard/flashers! I even temporarily disconnected all four leads from the kit that go to the front headlamp circuits and rear tail lamp circuits -- and the hazards STILL CAME on when unlocking. This is telling me that there is an indirect/unintended "connection" between the kit and the triggering of the hazard circuit.
The kit is clearly the correct one for the car, and the car has the right equipment for the kit (i.e. No Smart Key, has auto transmission, power windows, power locks, etc). Why the hazard lamps come on when I click the keyfob to unlock the car?
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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This auto has 143,000 miles on it. I recenty noticed a creaking noise from the left front when accelerating from a dead stop. The shop I have used for 15 years said that the motor mounts are deteriorating and should be replaced. I trust the guy but would like to avoid the $1,400 repair. There are no symptoms other than the ocassional noise.
What is the downside of ignoring his recommendation? What other symptoms can I expect if I delay the repair? Can this be a serious safety issue? I plan to keep the car for another two years unless I bite the dust first or the engine falls out.
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