Chrysler - Pacifica :: 2006 - Interior Icing On Windows During Cold Winters
Feb 28, 2011
I own a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica and during cold winter months ALL my windows ice-up significantly on the interior. To the point it is clearly a safety issue. Visibility is 0 due to the frost. I have to have the defrost on high at all times just to keep the front windshield clear, which results in making the cabin EXTREMELY uncomfortable (too hot)...for the driver and passenger. The floor mats are not saturated with water, I have NO wet towels in the car...etc. This has been happing from day one and the dealer, well...same old story...they say it's caused by my floor mats and there is nothing wrong....BUT this is NOT normal. I can send a video that shows the issue if you would like.
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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We just purchased a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica with 21,000 miles. However the EVIC system does not come on. I understand you need to remove the dashboard to change the fuse, which is soldered onto the circuit board. So we need to purchase circuit board to replace a fuse??
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My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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My a/c has worked just fine until about 30 minutes ago. Now, there is nothing coming out of the vents in the front, but plenty is coming out of the rear vents. What could this mean?
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2005 Chrysler Pacifica TouringWhen pressing on the brakes at speeds over 25 the steering wheel wobbles. I have had this problem in the past and it has been diagnosed as warped discs. They have been turned and it fixes it for a while then it comes back and again warped discs. I have had the discs replaced but it has come back time after time.
Just had it checked out and they are saying it again, warped discs and this time cannot be turned need to be replaced but they also showed me I need new lower arms.
What do the lower arms do? And if I do not replace them will I have the same problem later with the front discs getting warped?
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2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
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I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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I landed back home at the airport in Montana last night and got a "Stop! Vehicle too low" warning. Both front suspension were low. I called AAA towing and sat in the car for an hour with the engine running. Suddenly, the warning went away and the far was level. My suspicion is that the car sat in -3 degree F temperatures for two days, and perhaps the front air suspension had an issue with the cold temperatures. Does this sound plausible? My concern is that Montana does have cold winters and now I am questioning if my Phaeton likes the cold.
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'15 Persona, should I keep the tire pressure higher during winter? I normally keep it at 33 front 32 rear, like the sticker on the door shows.
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I tried installing my led interior lights and I got most of them in. I went to lock my car and the beeping noise didn't go off and my windows wont go up. My interior lights don't work and my hatch won't open.
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Last weekend we had our first warm weather up here in the Finger Lakes. My girlfriend wanted to be able to put down the top on her 2005 PT Cruiser convertible, but for a few months now the power windows and power top have not been working. She was going to take it to the shop, but I said, it may just be a fuse. I looked up the owners manual online, then drove the car to an auto parts shop and replaced the circuit breaker in the fusebox under the steering column, because it controls the power windows. The two passenger side windows started working but not the others. So I bought a fuse tester and tested all the fuses in the dashboard fusebox. They were all fine.
I drove the car some more, and couldn't figure out why the other windows wouldn't work. At one point I stopped but forgot to turn the engine off. I pulled some of the fuses out and plugged them back in, one by one. When I pulled one of them out, the engine stopped. I thought "uh-oh," then turned the ignition key to off and replaced the fuse. When I started the car again the engine light was on. I drove home (about 12 miles). I looked up stuff about the engine light on line and learned that after three trips, if everything is okay, the engine light will go out. That is exactly what happened. So I thought everything was okay except that I hadn't solved the window problem.
Two or three days later, my girlfriend got in the car to go to work in the morning. The car started but the engine light was on, and as she backed up out of her driveway the engine stopped. It wouldn't start again. The starter would just make a ratchety sound. We both figured my experiment with the fuses must have done something. I took the car (by tow truck) to a mechanic, and he didn't see how the fuses could be the problem. It turned out that the starter was bad and had burned out the battery. So I paid to have the starter replaced and a new battery put in. But when we picked the car up, he said what I'd done had nothing to do with the problem. He said the starter had probably been bad for some time, and it was just a coincidence that the car broke down a couple of days after I fiddled with the fuses. Now I'm convinced he's right, and my girlfriend is just convinced that he's wrong.
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Recently I was driving down the road in my 99 B5 1.8T AUTO and my power windows stopped working from all the interior switches. First thing I did was get out of the car and use the key to roll them down, which worked fine. Here is what I have tried/looked into so far:
- All fuses are fine except #14 which i replaced
- Swapped the master control switch in the drivers door
- Checked the wire harness under driver carpet and the ground wire for frays or breaks
- Checked the CCM connectors and board for anything burnt or damaged
I will also add that the locks work from the door switches and the power mirrors don't work as well.
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I've had my B6 with leatherette for just over two weeks now and I'm having trouble with a strong interior smell. It is a chemical/fishy smell that builds up when the car sits with the windows closed. I don't think it's coming from the vents because the smell goes away partially when the A/C is on. It is not related to outside temperature or direct sun. I didn't smell it during the test drive but I did right after I picked it up. I suspect the smell might be from the scotchguard treatment the dealer did during prep but I'm not sure. I've washed down the interior with Woolite a couple times and had the interior detailed professionally but the smell comes right back. Otherwise I love this car. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see what they say.
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My windows wont work and my interior door handles ALL need replacing. How exactly can I do this? I had to replace one a while back when the windows worked but I am stumped as to how I am going to attempt this. The only way I can exit my truck is to get someone to open it from outside or climb out the rear window (I'm a thick female and this is annoying/embarrassing).
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My current issue is as such: I started my car the other evening after a long day at work to find that when I started the car (I always leave the heater/AC control in bi-level mode with the a/c on with the fan at low or not on at all, unless I need the floor heater or the defroster) the interior of the windshield as well as the side windows instantly became fogged up. It took close to 10 minutes for the windshield to defog. Upon arriving home from work, I checked the reservoir where the coolant is recirculated and found that it was bone dry.
After the vehicle had cooled down, I popped the radiator cap and indeed the radiator fluid level was down. I replaced close to a 3/4 gallon if not a tad bit more of 50/50 mix. The next morning I started the car and the problem was still there and it took a few minutes for the heater to heat the car. Last evening and then again this morning, after the engine cooled to ambient temp, i squeezed the upper and lower hoses and there was still coolant in both hoses and thought this was odd, but I started the car w/o the fan on and the problem seemed to go away, but I noticed it didn't take any time for the car to heat up. Taking all of these things into account, is this a heater core(no coolant in cabin) or water pump problem or simply a bad thermostat?
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When it is hot out and the interior of the car gets really hot these things do not work: the electric windows will not work, the turn signals will not work, the display on the air conditioner does not work the blower on the air will not work but the air will come out of the defroster. All the dash lights come on abs, trac on trac off. After the car sits in the shade for at least an hour all these things will work.
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I have a Chrysler 2002 T & C. When the ignition is "on", everything works, but if the car starts, these accessories drop out and don't come back on for minutes at a time. The ignition switch has been replaced, but it still happens?????
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