Chrysler - Pacifica :: Shudders When Braking After New Rotors And Pads
Jul 25, 2013
My 2004 Pacifica (130k miles) was left parked for 2 weeks while we were away. Upon return it didn't wqnt to back out of the parking spot. After about 1/2 revolution the wheels made a clanking sound and hung up. Rolling back and forth freed things up enough to drive the car to the mechanic (about 40 miles). And after the first mile or so everything seemed to go back to normal, with no absolutely signs of anything not wanting to turn smoothly.. The mechanic thought that the problem had been that the brakes were sticking due to the car being unused and said nothing needed to be done. However, upon examination he found that we could use new front brakes and 2 motor mounts. He said that the need for brakes and motor mounts was due to normal wear and tear, and was not related to the wheels hanging up issue.
But now, immediately after installation of 2 new front rotors and pads and 2 new motor mounts there is a vibration/shudder when braking from anything more than 20-30 mph, which was never there before. The shudder is rapid and sometimes pronounced like going over the warning groves cut into the edges of pavement on the interstate. He thinks that this may be a sign that there is a driveshaft issue, and dismisses it as due to an out of round rotor since they are new. I don't know what to think. By the way, he has always been an excellent mechanic, with a great reputation and loyal following.
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2005 Chrysler Pacifica TouringWhen pressing on the brakes at speeds over 25 the steering wheel wobbles. I have had this problem in the past and it has been diagnosed as warped discs. They have been turned and it fixes it for a while then it comes back and again warped discs. I have had the discs replaced but it has come back time after time.
Just had it checked out and they are saying it again, warped discs and this time cannot be turned need to be replaced but they also showed me I need new lower arms.
What do the lower arms do? And if I do not replace them will I have the same problem later with the front discs getting warped?
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We just purchased a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica with 21,000 miles. However the EVIC system does not come on. I understand you need to remove the dashboard to change the fuse, which is soldered onto the circuit board. So we need to purchase circuit board to replace a fuse??
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My a/c has worked just fine until about 30 minutes ago. Now, there is nothing coming out of the vents in the front, but plenty is coming out of the rear vents. What could this mean?
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I have a Chrysler pacifica 2006 .Later in 2009 I had a problem ( 'tapping noise' coming from the engine). I took the car to the dealer, since at that time I still have warranty (39,000 miles). They changed: 18 arms (6 of each type) 8 dowel pin, belt and the lifters. Last year I started hearing the same noise again. The car was with 56,000 miles. I thought it should be under the warranty (service done), but it wasn't. So I decided to have the dealership servicing the repair. This time the part changed was only one. The receipt says they changed the 'arm-inlet and exhaust valve'. Guess what ? the noise still there and they say they won't open the car without me paying for the diagnosis ( many hour of labor for sure!).What can I do?
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So my Pacifica, after a long road trip around a year and a half ago, had it's check engine light come on. The meter read P0305, which is cylinder 5 misfire. When I got home, my local trusted mechanic replaced the coil and wire. Since then, the same misfire has occurred at least 4 times, and 3 of which he replaced the same parts (free warranty swap of the parts). The last time, he was determined that it wasn't simply the parts going bad. I concur. It has now lasted roughly a month and the light is back on with the same code. The spans have been as little as a week between leaving the shop and the light coming back on. I personally don't feel the car riding rougher than normal, but my wife does. I don't smell gas, have odd colored exhaust, or any other issue. The only other thing, which idk if it's related, is a clicking noise from the engine, which quickens with revving, perhaps the risers. What else could it be? I read that Chrysler's go to is a valve spring retainer lock and a MAP sensor that accompanies it.
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I drive a 2006 Pacifica and lately the engine has been causing me some grief. When I am in park, neutral, or in gear but stopped, the engine will sometimes rev up and my speedometer will jump accordingly sometimes as high as 30 mph. My first thought was that it might be a transmission issue, but I'm not a car mechanic so I don't know much along the lines of what to check or do. The model is an automatic 3.5L
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2007 Pacifica with 4.0 will not fill unless you dribble the fuel into the tank. I have cleared the vent hose and know it is clean. Do I need to change the Carbon Filter and Solenoid/Evaporation Valve on the Front of the Carbon Filter?
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I own a 2006 Chrysler Pacifica and during cold winter months ALL my windows ice-up significantly on the interior. To the point it is clearly a safety issue. Visibility is 0 due to the frost. I have to have the defrost on high at all times just to keep the front windshield clear, which results in making the cabin EXTREMELY uncomfortable (too hot)...for the driver and passenger. The floor mats are not saturated with water, I have NO wet towels in the car...etc. This has been happing from day one and the dealer, well...same old story...they say it's caused by my floor mats and there is nothing wrong....BUT this is NOT normal. I can send a video that shows the issue if you would like.
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I am considering purchasing a 2004 Chrysler Pacifica. It seems to be in excellent shape except for one thing--it makes a very noticeable creaking noise. The noise is coming from the front end and seems to only appear at very slow speeds (like in parking lots). The seller told me up front about the noise, and explained that it didn't start until he had someone "jerk" him out of a snowdrift in Colorado. He says that was about 4 years ago. He tells me he has had the front end aligned, he has had two motor mounts replaced and has had either the tie rods, or the tie rod ends (I'm not sure which) replaced, but the noise is still there. He claims mechanics can't find anything else wrong with it, and they assure him it is safe to drive.
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We have a 2006 Pacifica which as of recent has been slow to warm in the cabin, especially after a couple hour rest (oddly enough, it warms faster after sitting overnight). Also, when checking the fluids, we noticed that the coolant reservoir was just about empty. We added more 50/50 HOAT coolant, maybe 40-50 oz to get it normal cool engine level. This was done when the engine was cold. My wife noticed that the engine has been running warmer than normal. Normal is maybe a quarter the way up on the temp gauge, where it was around the halfway point, still far from the red zone but not its normal level.
This symptom has been going on for maybe a week. After adding additional coolant, the level stayed where we filled it as the engine warmed up. The heater warmed up to a normal level from what I can tell (it is 30 degrees warmer than last week) so it didn't start with a freezing cabin. I haven't seen any leaking of coolant, since I'm sure I would notice a hot pink puddle under the car. This is pretty typical or the sign of something major. It has around 80k miles on it.
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I've had a 2006 Passat 4Motion for about 15 Months now and it just went in for it's 20k mile service. The dealer told me that the front pads and rotors were shot, and the rear pads needed to be replaced.
I've read that the front brakes are rather easy to change but my question is: are there any aftermarket pads and/or rotors that last longer than the OEM ones? I just don't think I want to do brakes every 20k miles. Now in regards to the rear brakes, apparently my rotors are okay but my pads need to be replaced. I've read that you need the VW "Vag Com" to do that and I'm new to VW software stuff.
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On 8/18/04 VW told me that my 03' Passat (38'000 miles) needed new rotors & pads. I bought the car new. They told me that VW used rear pads that eroded quickly and provided new rotors on the house. I decided not to press my luck and paid for new pads. I look at my pads now through the rims and it seems dangerously thin and the edge of rotors has gouge all the way around. HAS ENOUGH TIME PASSED FOR A LEGIT REPLACEMENT ON THESE PARTS?
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How to remove the front brakes pads and rotors on my GMC Sierra 2008 - 1500 - crew cab - 4X4.
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So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
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I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
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I'm getting sick of having my rims getting dirty after one hour of driving because of all the brake dust that the OEM pads give off. I keep hearing from shops that ceramic brake pads are not only more quiet but will put out much less brake dust. On the other hand, Lexus is telling me that if I do that, I will forsure damage the rotors but I really feel like they just want me to keep the car stock which is why they're saying that.
Are ceramic brake pads a bad idea with stock rotors?
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I need to replace the rotors and calipers on my 04 accent gl. I noticed there are 5 bolts on the back of the caliper. I know one is for the flex hose connection. Then there are 2 big hex bolts closest to the dust plate. Are those for the caliper mounting bracket? and if so will they need to be removed? Then the final two are on the outer edge, however the top one is rounded and rusted, is this normal? The one on the bottom is a hex. So what needs to be removed to change the rotors and pads? I also notice that there are two screw holes in the rotor, that I guess snug it in place against the hub, however the screws are missing. Is this bad? are they needed? and if so can I get new ones?
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OK, I just got back from having pads and rotors install on my '99 Passat. I was expecting this to clear up the brake and abs light problem but it did not. The brakes still feel mushy and the ABS light still comes on.What should I check? In the brake forum people suggested bleading the brakes, is this the next step? Any quick how to?
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Have a 2009 BMW 328i with 78,000 miles. In the last year, the front brake pads and rotors have been replaced by the dealer 3 times, each time because of "warping" which is their diagnosis of a steering wheel shimmy (left to right oscillation) that occurs under light to moderate braking, especially at highway speeds.
The strange part: replacing the rotors and pads seems to solve the issue, but only for a few hundred miles.
I am led to conclude that something is causing very accelerated uneven deposition of pad material to the rotors - but what could it be? Suspension components and bushings have been inspected and check out. So do calipers. Recently completed: four wheel alignment, wheel rounding and balancing did not solve the issue. One dealer will no longer look at problem until "all four tires replaced" - but tires look fine, they are OEM RFTs with about 4/32nd's of tread left. Car seems fine cruising on highway - steering wheel shimmy only occurs under braking.
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2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
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