Civic - Honda :: 1994 - On Acceleration Car Would Die When Exceeding 3000 RPM
May 30, 2013
I was driving my 94 civic lx yesterday, and noticed that on acceleration the car would die when exceeding 3000 rpm, so I proceeded driving not exceeding those rpms. After a few minutes, that “ceiling” decreased to 2700 rpm, then to 2500 and so on. In the course of 10 minutes the car died and would not start. I checked the spark, and fuel pressure everything seems to be fine. It cannot be the fuse because the car was dying slowly, like something was limiting the rpms.
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I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX. It has a new 4 month old radiator and the fluid level is good. When I do in city driving I have no real heat to speak of. But when I get on the highway the heat kicks back in.
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I have a 94 honda civic. It's been having problems starting. When it won't start you have to pump the gas a lot and it will then start. You can smell a lot of fuel when this happens so unsure if it is the pump. Maybe it's a combination of several things. Replaced spark plugs, new wires connecting to battery. And just put in a new fuel filter. All seemed to slightly work for a minute. But now driving today went to start the car and it wouldn't stay running if I let go of the key. Finally got it to stay on seemed fine then as I was driving and wasn't pressing on the gas peddle the car started losing power so I pressed the peddle it sputtered (kinda sounded like something clogged in tail pipe) and regained power.
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I have a 1998 honda civic LX that slips very very seldom upon acceleration. It happens under light acceleration and medium acceleration (I dont accelerate hard enough to see it slip at high acceleration, it might!)
What happens is, the car stops accelerating and simply idles. As the motor idles the car drifts and slows down. I have never done it, but I bet in this state I could come to a complete stop just by drifting if I keep my foot in the same spot on the accelerator. When I change my foot, and accelerate harder, the car wakes back up and keeps accelerating like nothing even happened.
I don't think it is the transmission slipping, because in that instance revs would climb and acceleration would halt and that is not the case. I recently gave the car a huge tune up, here's the list
Valve adjustment
Oil and filter change
Cleaned throttle body and IAC
New distributor and cap (Plug wires aren't really in good shape)
New spark plugs
New air filter
Set the timing
New belts
Cleaned injectors
Cleaned battery terminals
I don't know what could cause this problem! The only thing I have come up is the Possibility a TPS (Throttle position sensor) going bad. The only thing that I know of that is wrong with the car is the exhaust manifold has a big crack in it right before the upstream 02 sensor. No doubt this leak is messing with the cars readings of the AFRs. Could this be part of the problem? It is throwing a code for the catalyst system.
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My 2001 manual transmission Honda Civic lost acceleration and died a few weeks ago. Was pressing the gas all the way down and it just wouldn't go. I was able to get the ac/radio to turn on but couldn't get it restarted. After 5 minutes, I got it started and was able to get it through the intersection into a parking lot before it died again. It jerked and made loud popping noises and never would go more than 5 mph the whole time. Had it towed to the shop. They tried to start the car the next morning and did so with no problems. The check engine light showed a timing issue. Later that day, they restarted and no check engine light and no problems, but we knew the timing belt was way overdue (165000 miles, never replaced) so we all hoped I got a lucky warning and they replaced that and sent me on my way.
Two weeks later it did the same thing and died again. This time it was close enough to home to restart it and get it home. It jerked and popped and then at one point it was as if a clog got cleared and I shot off down the street, because I had the pedal to the floor. Then it started decelerating again but I got it home-smelled a slight burning smell. Waited until the next morning, suspecting it would be fine, and drove it to the shop myself with no problems. This time the codes showed it needed a new O2 sensor and a cam shaft sensor. They replaced those, feeling certain that must have been the issue.
Drove it home with no problem, went to leave the house that night and as soon as I got out of the driveway, it started doing it again. This time, though, the car did not die and I was able to turn it around and get it back into the driveway. The shop sent a tow truck and they've had it since, but can't get the car to replicate the problem and there is nothing showing up as being wrong (and I swear I'm not imagining this). Have been assured that it's not the transmission, not the fuel filter. They think it might be something electrical but can't figure it out.
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I test-drove a 1994 Honda Accord with 140K today. Looking for reliable car for relative, and this was one of the better options, on paper at least, in the price range.It drove like a used car, but I was concerned about one thing: A ping when accelerating from low speed. It didn't do it constantly, but only when going from a standstill or slowdown back up to speed. The seller said he'd been told it was an issue with the catalytic converter. I've been told that a higher octane fuel will sometimes quell a ping in an engine with no knock sensor.Is this something I should be worried about? Is the high-octane rumor true? The car was otherwise very nicely maintained.
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I have a scary problem with my 2005 Civic Coupe HX CVT that the dealer can't resolve - my car drives forward and even accelerates when my foot's not on the gas! This is a recipe for disaster, especially since I live in a cold climate and there's so much ice and snow in winter.
I thought at first I must be crazy. So I've tested it by taking my foot off the gas going up a small incline, and Voila! It drives up the hill! It also can drive around the block by itself! It's like the energizer bunny, and I'm scared to drive it anymore.
The dealer has no clue why this is happening and can't seem to replicate the problem. I've brought it in more than once, too.
It happens most often when my car's been parked for awhile, say 6 hours or more, and if it's really cold outside, say less than 32 degrees outside. Also the heater's usually on when it happens, but that may be incidental since it's usually cold when the problem occurs...
Also, There's a whine that sounds like a belt that gets loud when the air conditioner runs and also if it's really rainy. I've taken it in to the dealer a couple different times and they fix it, but then the sound comes back again. Could this be related?
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Recently, my 2003 manual honda civic accelerates very slowly, even the engine speed goes up to 4000 rpm. Usually it takes up to 1 minute to reach 60mph on high way. Is the clutch getting bad?
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My 1994 Acura Integra makes a buzzing noise exactly between 3000 and 3500 RPMS. It sounds kind of like the sound a circular saw would make cutting wood. It only happens when I am accelerating through that range. Also, sometimes after driving for a while, it doesn't last as long and the noise stops around 3300 RPMS. I've checked the heat shield and it seems to be fine so I don't think its that. What this could be caused by?
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Here is what happened: I was accelerating one colder morning while driving to work when the power just dropped. Then engine continued to run, but I had no power or acceleration over 3000 rpm. Since that time, that is how the car drives. It starts, runs, etc... but has no power (like rev limiter or something) over 3000 rpm. The turbo spools up fine. I do know my 02 sensors are old. The engine has 184k on it... not bad. Is this a head gasket situation?
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Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
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I have a 2004 saturn vue. It is a 5 speed standard with a 4 cylinder engine. Now that I have that posted here is my problem. I have normal acceleration up until I hit 3000 rpms. At that point my low engine power light comes on and I lose acceleration. To explain that better, if I take my foot off the gas pedal completely and then try accelerate again nothing happens. My engine stays on but I do not have any reaction when I push on the gas pedal. When I run the computer codes it says it could be my accelerator pedal sensor or my ecm. I do not want to have to replace the ecm if I have to due to how expensive it is.
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So, I have a 2016 Elantra SE Auto w/ 26k miles, I have 1k miles life until my next oil change.
Since about Saturday, whenever I accelerate, around 3k RPM - 4k RPM it's running/ sounding really rough! Not sure what's causing that, I checked my air filter earlier that day & put it right back in, also put in some HID lights in. I thought maybe the containment cover or gasket around the filter wasn't seeded properly, but everything checks out. I'm pretty car savy, so I know this isn't normal for brand new cars. Doesn't seem like it's loosing power, I still get pretty quick throttle response when I really gas it!
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My GTI has started to bog out, i guess is the best way to describe... As I am trying to accelerate on the highway my RPMs rev up to 5000 till I get any response to amount of gas I am giving. It will dramatically drop to 3000 without letting off the gas. then gradually will accelerate, untypical to way it use to perform. She respond this way cold or hot.
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I have a 2000 accord with 2.3 v tec, parked my car last night and was working fine, started it up this morning and the car wont work over 3000 rpms, it idles and works great but when you drive it or push the gas as soon as it goes over 3000 rpms it should like the rev limiter is on, i already cleaned the iac and it woks fine a while ago,can it be a sensor, I thought it was a fuel filter like it was starving for gas but in the 2000 accords its in the gas tank, don't under stand why she runs good up to 3000 rpm then over that she misses . I took out the spark plugs and they were black and sooty, put a spare set I had in her but no change in the way the engine works.
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Experiencing a squeal under hard acceleration at 3000 rpm with roughly 20lbs of boost, not present before and not present after 3000 rpm. light acceleration to 3000 rpm does not create sound, as well as turning 20lbs at a lower rpm (higher gear with throttle input). Truck has an EGR delete, EGR delete up pipe. EGR valve is still in place and plugged in. Truck did come with a banks six gun, so does not have EGR delete tune, however no trouble codes are present. What to check?
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My 2004 f150 xlt has been extremely shaky after exceeding 60 mph thus was a slight problem that has been getting worst it's shaking so hard I feel like the mirror is gonna fall of. What could this be?
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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My car is a 2001 honda accord v6. It sat for 3 winter months. When I go to turn it on in the morning, the car will rev while idling. Jumping between 1000 and 3000 rpms. Why this might be happening?
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I have a 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 2.3 L. I went 3 blocks yesterday to the highway and as i got ready to pull out onto the highway I lost power (like foot feed to the floor and going 20 mph). Drove it back home (3 blocks) and the engine is over heating within 3 blocks but temp gage isn't registering over heating (Incredibly hot under the car within 3 blocks). Engine was shaking badly and whatever it was blew a hole in my muffler? Put on all new spark plugs, oil change, oil filter... No more shaking in the motor but still no power when trying to go. Cut catalytic converter off and tried to drive out of the driveway, still no power on acceleration.
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i have a 1994 buick park avenue non supercharge. I replaced the harmonic balancer because it was split all the way around. ok then i start having low fuel pressure. it was at at 22psi so i got the fuel pump, strainer and filter replaced i also notice my cat was turning red. I also got the cat replaced and part of the new one is starting to turn red. I am experiencing poor acceleration ...my car shakes but shakes more when im in drive and foot on the brake..i can tell the difference in the acceleration from when i put the new cat on..it picked up a little bit but its not how its suppose to be. I also notice two of my coil packs have a slight crack across the top by the numbers....
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