Civic - Honda :: 2006 - Consuming / Burning A Lot Of Oil
Nov 14, 2011
My wife and I just bought a used 2006 Honda Civic LX with about 90K miles. It's going through about 1qt of oil every 500 miles. No puddles or oil leaks on the driveway and the engine is clean of leaking oil. What could be causing this? Could this be attributed to a crack in the engine block? Cracked blocks are known to be a problem with this model and year and the subject of a tech note by Honda and they have extended the warranty to 8 years because of it. Have others had this problem? The car was serviced by a local dealer, Boch Honda in MA, by the previous owner and has had the oil changed every 3K miles. I have all the documentation.
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I own an old Civic and I noticed in the past several months that I get a burned oil odor in the passenger compartment, but only when I drive downhill. I more recently notice that if I accelerate while driving down the hill, a cloud of smoke trails out behind me then clears when I let off the gas. This car has 294,000 miles on the odo. (I know) and I DO have to add a quart of oil every 2 weeks or so. It runs great though. Is my motor about ready to blow or what . . . ?
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Honda Civic ( not a hybrid) with 137k miles has had inconsistent starting issues since last Spring. I had a new battery installed in March of 2014, and it still had inconsistent starting issues. It acted as if it wanted to turn over, and then finally would after 2 or 3 turns of the key. Some days it started just fine, too. The mechanics that replaced the battery said that they battery was fine and then they could not find any issues.
It still continued and I brought it to a different mechanic after a jump 6 weeks after the new battery was installed. They put a new starter in, and said that the seams or seals were worn and drawing too much power from the battery. That starter was replaced in May. Once again, and over the last couple of days the car is not wanting to start. It is cranking, but takes 2 or 3 turns of the key. Sometimes it has started just fine, and it started for the mechanics just fine this morning.
Simple things I've ruled out: regular oil changes, a full tank of gas, not sitting outside in cold weather, and not sitting for long periods of time. An idea is that something might be drawing a current from the battery while the car is off.
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I took my car to a nearby repair shop. They replaced the rear brake pads and resurfaced the rear rotors. When I left, I felt and heard clunking while driving. Initially I thought it was just stuff rolling around in the trunk. As I drove on, I realized it must be something the shop did. It sounded like metal scraping metal every time the tire rotated and started making terrible sounds when I hit the brakes. I stopped to take a look. It looked like the rotor or something behind it had ripped. What happened here? It's a 2006 Honda Civic EX. Picture hopefully attached.
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i have a 2006 honda civic. at higher speeds it sounds and feels like it is running at a high RPM but the RPMs are where they should be. if i touch on the brake the sound gets louder. i recently had my car in and got new tires, but the problem still persists. they checked my brakes and they are fine.
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I have a 2006 honda civic lx and the air conditioner works fine when i first start the car.
However, after driving for 15-30 minutes the air conditioner starts blowing progressively warmer air, until it starts blowing warm (or even hot) air. this seems to happen when the engine gets hot.
One particular day it started raining, and suddenly the cold air kicked back in.
I took it to the dealer and they said i needed a compressor and coil for a grand total of $800. i took it for a free a/c inspection, and he said the problem might be electrical, but a visual inspection wasn't enough to figure out the problem.
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My 2006 Honda Civic LX has 120,000 miles. About a month ago I stopped for gas, and when I got back into the car, it wouldn't start. It cranked a couple times but then after a couple tries that stopped. The power all came on as normal (lights, radio, everything with no dimming), but the engine wouldn't go all the way. I got a jump and things were fine for a couple of weeks, then it did it to me again, following a brief stop in the grocery store after my highway commute home. Again, jumped the car and went home.
After four days with no sign of trouble, it happened again at the gas station. I then took it to a mechanic who spent 2 days with it and declared my problem a mystery. He couldn't get the car to not start for him and said my battery, alternator, fuses, everything he looked at seemed fine. He thinks it could be the starter but couldn't be completely sure enough to do such expensive work. I also let it sit for two days to see if there was a battery drain, but it started up just fine after sitting for those two days. I did notice that it seems to not want to start the day or two after I use my headlights. Now, 5 days since the last episode, it's starting but the crank is a little slow. My battery is one month old. I'm at a loss and don't want to throw money at the problem without knowing. I'm tired of driving everywhere afraid to turn the car off, too.
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This is a 2006 Honda Civic LX which it won’t turn over. Last night we replaced the battery because it was old, and that still did not fix the issue.
The lights, stereo, electronics, etc will turn on, but when you turn the key, it’s just a very sad sounding “whirrrr” and nothing. It sounds like the battery is dead, but it obviously isn't. There’s no clicking…it has a full tank of gas…the key is programmed fine and is not new…
Further details: yesterday we were able to turn the car on (though it was slow to start: we thought it was the battery…) and move it to the driveway one time. After that, even jumping it off doesn't work.
Previously for the last week or so I've been experiencing a slowness to the start (I would turn the key and it just took a little longer than it has before to finally turn on) and also my headlights & interior lights were flickering pretty severely during my night driving. We had someone at Advanced Auto check the battery and alternator with one of their gadgets, but the alternator checked out fine. The battery was old and showing that it didn't have much left, so that’s why we replaced it.
We checked a lot of the fuses and didn't find anything blown. The alternator belt looked good, we made sure all the battery connections were tight & secure… We are just so confused as to why it’s not working…!! I'm not sure if the intermittent lights flickering is related or unrelated. I am in a relatively warm place but it's not been all that hot lately... I've never had any other problems with the vehicle...
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We have a 2006 Civic and there appears to be a coolant leak coming from the engine block above the started motor, so it is hard to see clearly. The kids are about to leave for Atlanta (from Iowa) and I am concerned that this could be a crack in the block based on some on-line discussion. Is it risky to send the kids on a 1000 mile trip without fixing?
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My wife drives a 2006 Honda Civic. She just drove back from Vermont - we live near Boston - and on her way back the idle was unusually rough and twice she said it felt as if she was driving over rumble strips, even though she was on smooth pavement. The first time she was going 40 and the second time she was barely moving. She also noted that once, at a stop sign, the car wouldn't slowly move forward when she took her foot off the brake, as it usually does. She had to give it gas. The thing is, the problem is very intermittent.
She says the only thing that is constant is the rough idle, but the engine check light is NOT on.
The last work that was done on the car, about a month ago, was the replacement of the calipers and shoes on one of the brakes. My wife had driven for some time with the squealing noise that indicates you need to change your brake shoes without telling anyone about it. She used the radio fix.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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I have a mk4 jetta vr6 200,000 miles with a bigger pcv and a cold air intake ( universal) and silicone vacuum hoses and secondary water pump delete and exhaust. (Just a little info) I seem to have a lot of blow by and its been eating 2qts or so of oil between oil changes. I am using 20w50 castrol gtx high mileage and a locus and is still eating it (2qts). I do drive it hard and race so I figured it would be fine the thicker oil plus arizona heat. I am thinking maybe more lucas additive about 40% of lucas and 60% 20w50. Just trying to keep it running support the worn seal and compression and horsepower and of course oil lose. It is such a pleasure to drive and race.
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My 95 Bonne with 3.8L uncharged engine (90 k miles) is consuming coolant. No external leaks (hoses, clamps, core plugs, water pump, radiator, heater or overflow tank). Coolant side pressure checked hot & cold OK. Coolant sniffed for exhaust; none detected. Here is the crux: the exhaust pipe drips GREEN LIQUID. Engine runs fine (for now).
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I have a 4 door 1.8t AWW
Like I said in the title I keep getting the P0172 and can't seem to shake it no matter what I do. I believe the car is in soft limp mode as I can't boost above 5 psi. I'm also consuming oil fairly quickly (atlas 2 quarts in a span of 2-3 months), no smoke out back though. I did find that the whole PCV system underneath the plenum was wet, but nothing else was? Checked the PCV valve and it seemed operational and didn't stay open. Check PCV system for cracks and was unable to see any which added to the confusion.
Thing's I've done to try and fix problem:
-replaced breather hose because of crack
-went through all the vacuum lines and replaced where needed
-have two n75j's that I'm unsure if they work or not (is n75j the stock valve for the AWW?)
-cleaned the maf
-replaced valve cover gasket
-changed plugs
-replaced dv with splitter
Other things for diagnose:
-little wet around 2 of the injectors on top of the plenum (old o rings?)
-when running splitter full atmospheric I can hit 10psi but with it closed off can't get past 5psi
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My headlights keep burning out. As in frequently burning out...nearly every other month or so I have to replace one headlight or the other. Could this be indicative of a larger problem with my car?
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So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey. A few day ago I noticed a weird smell, sort of like burning chemicals, only after driving the 25 miles to work and later that day the same. Drove it over the weekend around town with no problems. Just to be safe, took it to my trusted local mechanic on Monday...he could find no problems except black walnut debris from critters. Drove it to work Tuesday, no problems there. On way home at stop sign, hit the gas to go forward and car wouldn't go forward. Luckily I was going downhill and could pull over.
Tow truck driver was able to drive it up flatbed and brought it to shop. Mechanic said transmission fluid was dark and flush/changed it three times. It is driving absolutely fine with no problems(to the surprise of my mechanic) though mechanic said transmission life may be limited. I am now afraid to drive my car as I commute to work and have three children. It has 106,000 miles and always has been maintained on schedule. The transmission fluid was flushed last year for the first time at around 95,000 miles as recommended by mechanic.
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I was driving my 2002 CRV with 86K miles on it, when suddenly the A/C stopped working and there was a burning smell. Immediately stopped A/C and took it to my local dealer, Honda. They say the compressor blew metal debris throughout the A/C system, destroying it completely. I am, of course, furious that a low mileage Honda in excellent condition would require this kind of repair. Should I have it done? Should I find another mechanic and get aftermarket parts?
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1997 Civic HX, runs great, no motor issue....more like driveline.....Recently picked up a vibration, it just got much worse. My thought is there's a bad CV joint, but I can't find much play.....Was vibrating at 60mph, let of the gas & it goes away.....now, vibrates from the word go as if somethings out of round, if I coast, I now get a thunk/thunk/thunk until I ease back on the gas, then it vibrates. Braking.....out of gear...thunk/thunk/thunk hardcore, braking while in gear I get nothing but less vibes.....Steering wheel does not shake, 4 brand new tires, brakes seem fine.......CV JOINT?? or Something internal?
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Recently, my Check Engine and IMA Check lights both came on. My Honda garage tech advised me that the code revealed "Battery Deterioration". The code was cleared and when the car was restarted both lights had gone off and have not come back on....yet (10 days ago). Eventually, I know the lights will reappear and I will have to commit (or do I?) to a new battery. The battery installed would run about $2500 dollars. A question occurs to me now that didn't when I was at the garage. Would that car function normally without the IMA? I know the mileage would drop but would I still be able to drive the car?
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2006 Honda Civic, 150k miles .. A/C does not work when its hot outside. When the A/C does work it cools well..
When I take the car out of garage the A/C cools well but as I start driving and if the weather outside is hot, the A/C stops cooling after some time. And it will then not cool again till I park the car in a garage and the engine has cooled down..
If the day temperature is generally high and the garage is hot then the A/C will not cool right from the beginning..
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