I've had this '96 Dodge Caravan for just over a year now and suddenly I go to try and start it and it will almost start but then stop. All my dash comes on like it supposed to but when I turn my key it just stuggles and makes a grinding noise. The only thing i know is my common sense is saying if it makes grinding noise dont keep trying you'll make things worse.
View 5 RepliesI get a grinding type of sound when I am braking but only when I come to a complete stop and then again when I release the brake. It is only for a second but it is loud and doesn't sound good. What could be wrong. It also is much worse when it rains.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
View 7 RepliesI have 05 Caravan, 4 cyl, 115k. Runs fine (just got back from a 2000 mile trip) that seems to have a quirk or something with the AC.
When I have the AC on and stop at a light, it feels like it hesitates several times. I almost think it'll stall (never has). I usually end up turning off the AC while we're at the light, and start it back up when I accelerate. When the AC is off, there is no hesitation. Also, If I put it in park, and we have the AC on, no problem. I rarely, if ever, have the recirculation going.
One thing of note: I usually wait until I'm out of our neighborhood and on the main street before turning it on. That means the windows are down until I turn it on. When I do, occasionally I hear a sound that best can be described as similar to the sound of loosening a tight lug nut. Still, as long as I'm driving, there is no hesitation and it cools fine.
Back in June I replaced all 4 brakes and rotors. Now all of sudden I hear a loud grinding noise in the front end only when I'm braking to a complete stop.
I took all 4 tires off and then took off the pads. The pads and rotors are all still brand new and have very minor normal wear. Also the calipers still look good.
I then put everything back together and went for a test drive. The grinding noise is still there. It's very loud and only when I come to a complete stop.
When operating in cold weather (below freezing) at highway speeds, the car produces a whiney/buzzy sound when slowing down to the park or get gas. the noise is very loud in the cabin, but hard to hear from the outside with the hood open. I assume the noise is there while driving but unheard over general road noise. Noise varies in pitch with engine rpm, and slowly dissipates as the car sits at idle (warms up?). Noise modulates with turning of the steering wheel, which makes me suspect PS pump, but could be anything attached to the serpentine belt. After being parked and I start it up again, no noise.
View 2 Replies2005 Dodge Caravan - Driving to work this morning. Last mile of a ten-mile trip, there is a steep hill. As I accelerated the car began a rattling sound in the engine compartment. Never heard that before. Also, smelled like something burning. Rattling stopped after topping the hill, but would begin occasionally whenever moderately accelerating, then go away. Oil and temperature gauges read normal.
Got to work, and checked the fluids. At acceptable levels. At lunchtime, decided to try to drive it home. All quiet for the first mile and a half, then rattling started up again. This time, instead of just at moderate acceleration, it also sometimes rattled when coming to a stop or turning. At five miles I had to stop at a store to pick up something. Wasn't gone long, and when I started it back up and drove off, no rattling until about another mile down the road.
Four miles later, the rattling got worse and did not stop. I pulled into a parking lot just as the engine died and smoke poured out from under the hood. The hood release is broken, so it takes some time to pop it. By the time I got it open, the smoke was gone so I did not see where it was coming from. Could not see any obvious problems. Let it sit for five minutes, then it started right up. No noises, and couldn't see any issues while running.
Less than a mile from home, so I decided to go ahead and drive it. The van behaved until about two blocks from the house, then the occasional rattling began again. Made it into the driveway.
a couple of weeks ago, when it was about -15 here, my car started acting strange. In the morning after I started it I tried to shift into drive and it wouldn't engage. The same happened in reverse. I would shift into drive (or reverse) and it would not shift. I would put it in the park then shift back to drive and after a couple of times it worked. Once I am up and running it seems to be fine, it shifts up as it is supposed to when I am increasing speeds and it does not slip out of drive. I thought at first it was the cold, but has continued to happen - usually just in the mornings - even now that the weather has warmed up (!) to 20. The fluid seems fine according to the dip stick and the color of the fluid is pink and has a sweet smell, no burning smell. Could this be a first sign of bigger issues or something that can be taken care of with a fluid change or flush?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.8L engine. There's a sound coming from under the hood that sounds like a drum roll on a piece of hard plastic. No noise on idle or revving the engine while parked. Noise starts upon accelerating, seems to disappear in second gear (automatic trans), reappears in 3rd gear, disappears in 4th. Appearance and disappearance isn't consistent but seems to disappear when the engine shifts up and the rpms drop. No check engine light.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 dodge caravan that has 290,000 miles on it. I don't want to put a lot of money into it.
Just recently I put in the anew alternator, then had some work done on the exhaust.
Immediately afterward, I had trouble starting it. My mechanic fixed a gas leak, then it would start sometimes, other times it would not start. Then different mechanic replaced a sensor. It started a few times and it is back to not starting again.
It makes an rrrrrr sound like it is getting some sparks, but it won't make the final start. The battery was tested, and jumping it with cables doesn't work. My brother and the tow truck driver thought it might be the fuel pump, which was replaced about a year ago.
Anti-theft alarm was triggered inadvertently and now won't allow vehicle to start. When ignition is turned there is just a click...does not turn over. Is there a reset???
View 7 RepliesI have a 97 dodge caravan engine 3.0. When I start to accelerate my engine fuse 20amp blows. I does not occur every time but yesterday, it did it 6 times and is now getting looked at. I am just curious on what causes this. I did recently have my spark plugs changed so I am thinking something may be arching.
I do have codes that previously came up for my fuel injectors (P0203, p0206). Another code I have is p1294 idle speed performance.
My friend (yes, really, a friend, not me) parked her 2004 Dodge Caravan in the driveway the evening before. The next morning it would not start. No crank, no grind, no click, and no dash lights, nada, nothing. She took it to the shop she's taken the car to for years for repair and maintenance. She trusts them. They've replaced the battery and run a full diagnostic on it, but are unable to solve the problem. The shop is telling them her it could run into the thousands just to figure out the problem. What could they be missing?
View 4 Replies2005 Dodge SRT-10 Quad Cab.... There is a strange noise, or perhaps I should say noises that sound most of the time like a grating/grinding sound. Occasionally it has less of that mechanical sound, and more of..well, like blowing air over your tongue with a lot of saliva in the way (like a cat purring with a hairball in its mouth??). Anyway, the ONLY constant I have found is that it only happens when I am accelerating (but not every time I accelerate). Most often (again there have been exceptions) it happens between 1500 & 2500 RPMs...typically just before the transmission would be inclined to shift to a higher gear - if it does shift into the higher gear, the noise stops.
Also, the moment I take my foot off of the gas pedal, the sound stops. About a third of the time, I can feel a slight vibration via my feet when the noise is stronger sounding. On two occasions (this is over a period of approximately 1 year) The sound was extremely harsh, and the truck was shaking.When I took it in the first time they told me it was the catalytic converter, and replaced it. When that didn't fix the problem, they decided it must be the other catalytic converter (yes it has two). That didn't fix the problem either.Ordinarily, rather than simply have them replace half the parts in the truck I would wait until something completely failed, thus making the culprit obvious. However, I am moving soon... and I don't want to be driving half way across the country pulling a large trailer and have the drive shaft, or transmission, or whatever - fall out.
I have a grinding sound comes from the front of my car when the speed reaches 60 miles, what can cause this sound.also i have a popping sound when putting the gear in reverse is that related?
View 1 RepliesI have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
View 3 RepliesBought this cheap 93 grand caravan 3.3 with about 350,000km about 750km ago and it had a bit of a whining sound from the start, thought it was normal for it's life. Last night I was taking my daughter and infant grand-daughter home when there was a terrible clunking, grinding and rattling sound coming from the engine. It was about -20 outside so I decided to just limp it home, but when I got a block from my daughters house I lost power steering. I checked under the hood an saw the belt on the left side with all the pulleys had come off and only one pulley near the bottom was spinning. after trying to spin the other pulleys i noticed one wouldn't spin ether way,and was really hot. thought it might have seized up and threw the belt. Is there a pulley in there that's not supposed to move freely, and if not what should I do now?
View 8 RepliesI recently acquired a 2003 Camry with 150,000mi. its has a rough take off from stop and when I accelerate it make a rattling/grinding sound. the sound disapates after around 30mph. Ive changed trannyfluid, oil change next is plugs and all that good stuff since I do not know when it was done last.
View 4 RepliesI noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
I have a 2001 Camry LE, 4 cyl, 2.2 liter, automatic transmission, 163Kmiles on it.
I'm hearing what sounds to me rather like a grindy sound at around 1400-1600 RPM. Initially the Camry seemed to do it only after getting into 2nd gear at about 10MPH, but now i see that it is associated with RPM and not the gear so much (the noise is less frequent and less loud in 2nd and 3rd gear- not noticing it ever at above that). I should say that the Camry has been making lots of noises since a new exhaust was put in by a cheap Bosnian shop.
It seems to only make that particular grindy noise when starting from a dead stop, but not if i was already coasting at all. So far as i can tell it seems to only happen about half the time- if I'm accelerating very slowly it doesn't seem to happen much. If i start climbing a hill after a dead stop it seems to come on fairly reliably.
It does not seem to make the noise when passing down through 1600 RPM while slowing down or revving down.
When i started the Camry up today, the noise cropped up well before i got to 8MPH (where it typically shifts into 2nd gear). Which is to say the noise appeared before it even started to shift out of 1st gear.
If i stay in Drive or Reverse and apply the brake so as to not go anywhere, the noise generally starts around 1600RPM. Since the car isn't moving, i think this might rule out the transmission. I hope.
However when in Neutral or Park and i bring the engine up to 1600RPM and beyond, the noise does not appear. So that's perhaps not so good. Of course my car idles a lot better/smoother in N and P than it does in D or R. It's rather rough idling in D and R.
I'm hoping maybe it's a vibration issue- something like harmonic amplification- where something only rattles in a certain frequency range. I pulled up next to a brick wall, kept on the brake, went into D and got up near 1600RPM and the reflected noise does strike me more now as maybe being less a grindy noise and more of a rattly vibration.
The Bosnian shop who fixed up my exhaust were too quick to dismiss the noises i heard after they worked on it. I think maybe something is loose. I hope. (I could feel air leaving the flexpipe's woven area itself but don't know if this is normal.)
Going up hills increases the likelihood of the noise appearing (so i take this to be suggestive that it IS the transmission).
However on a flat road if i hit the gas to quickly get up to 1600RPM before I'm any where near auto shifting out of 1st gear, the noise also usually appears (so i take this to be suggestive that this is not the transmission). I've also gotten the noise to not appear until well into 2nd gear.
The fairly-repeatable noise appearing in the 1600RPM zone regardless of my gear position gives me some hope that the xmission is not the source of the noise. So on balance, i think there's some indication it's the transmission, but there's also evidence that the source is other than the transmission.
The noise does not occur in Neutral or Park while revving up to 1600RPM. But then too, the engine, exhaust and vibrations always seem considerably less in N or P, as opposed to being in Drive (or Reverse). Why my Camry is quieter and more smooth in N and P as opposed to D or R? In the latter two modes, i imagine the transmission is engaged? And that the transmission is unengaged in P and N? And would that make the car louder or vibrate more, at least under certain conditions? Is the engine under less load in P and N?
And are noises at certain RPMs in D or R, but not in P or N indicative of Transmission problems? I notice the shop overfilled the transmission fluid every time i've had it changed.
The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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