Dodge - Magnum :: After Re-fueling Car Will Die If Driving Slow Or At Highway Speeds
Feb 24, 2012
I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. The transmission fluid is always low, but I cannot find a leak. This causes the transmission to slip. When I add transmission fluid it is okay for a while. (I do not drive the truck daily...) What the problem may be?
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I have a 05 dodge magnum v6 2.7. Only when its warm it stalls at idle. Scanned it code p0137 came back low voltage o2 sensor 1 of 2. I replaced all 4 o2 sensors and still stalling...
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When I turn the A/C on for the first time everything is o.k. Say I drive to the store, park in the sun, come out 20 minutes later, start the car, turn on the A/C, and for the first minute or so the air blowing out smells rank. What gives?
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I'm talking basically about the equivalent of your standard pulse and glide in the regular Prius. But the PiP would allow you to do it up to 62 mph. However, you would manually have to toggle the HV/EV button to do it. It would be tiresome.
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When I am driving, especially at high speeds on the highway, the Navigation System on my Prius runs pretty slow. As the GPS icon is traveling, the movement is very choppy. It is not a smooth transition. Is there any way that I can fix this?
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2005 Magnum with 64K and original battery: Battery warning light turned on and went immediately to battery shop. Alternator checked out ok but battery dead. Battery replaced but upon starting the engine max raced. turned on off several times still races at high RPM.
Since I was out of town, drove home by feathering accelerator pedal by pulling it back with my foot and brake and cruised at about 40 MPH. Got home safe. Will the computer reset after a fixed number of turn ons and offs or must it be taken to dealer for computer reset?
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I drive a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. It has 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. I have heard from some old timers that if I drive in 4hi at highway speeds it will damage the vehicle. The manual does not say anything about not driving highway speeds in 4hi. I only drive in 4 hi when there is lots of snow on the road (I-25/I-70 between Colorado Springs and the mountains mostly). Any good info on this? I understand how 4hi is no good on dry pavement (I've made that mistake a few times), but in a snowy situation on the interstate where I am not making any turns, only highway curves, is there anything wrong with it? I am talking speeds like 50-70 mph.
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I have a 2002 Mercury Cougar and ever since i bought it (8 months ago) it is fueling up really slow. It takes about 20 mins to put 13 gallons of gas in. I have to just barely squeeze the handle to keep from the gas spurting back out. Its so slow that you can count the cents as it adds up. If i don't hold it really slow the gas comes spewing back out the neck of the gas tank, or just bubbles back out and shuts the pump off.
I thought it could be that my evap canister was plugged or the lines running from the gas tank to it, so i brought it in and they blew out all the lines with an air compressor and they said it was all clear. Its getting really frustrating standing out there at the pump for 20 mins. I really want to get this fixed before the COLD of MN winters comes!!!
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My sonata has started having issues on the highway at speeds ~65-75 mph. It will start vibrating, a little at first and gradually getting worse. As this happens my brake pedal seems to be more firm and touchy rather than soft and needing more pressure to stop. The vibration can be felt in the steering wheel and the floor as I drive. This has happened twice so far, with a gap of about a week in between incidents. What should I get checked out?
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I just bought a 2005 Scion XA for commuting but am considering driving it from Maine to Maryland and am concerned about driving long distance at highway speeds with 3200 RPM at 65 MPH. Is this ok?
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I just bought a 2011 accent 5 spd ... Quick question, when I drive it at highways speeds. (65mph) I notice that i am running around 3500 revs. Is that normal? It seems a little high to me. Every other 4 banger I had never ran that high in 5th gear at 65 mph.
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The wife and I own a 2003 Hyundai Elantra with 163k miles.
We just had our oil changed and we are currently running 5/30 and the oil light came on about a week after the change. I stopped the car immediately and checked the oil level and it was fine and oil was super clean. So I jumped back in the car and the light was off. Drove down the road about 2-3 miles and the light came back on and stayed on. Today it stayed off for a good 5-10 min while driving at highway speeds of 55-60 and then it popped on. The car runs great and it's not running hot that I know of and doesn't sputter or anything.
I was wondering if it was a bad Oil Pressure Switch? Where are they located at in the motor? I just put 1k into it with new new belts, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, wires and tires.
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I drive a 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT (6 speed Manual) and I have noticed that when im in 6th gear going highway speeds, I have an RPM of about 3K. For this model I feel this value is high and im worried about engine wear and fuel economy. I'm not sure about the other gears, but from my knowledge of other cars in the same weight category, less horsepower and 4-speed automatic gearbox, my car should not have such high RPM.
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Just had a hub get stripped a few weeks back and had to replace the whole hub assembly. Now just a few weeks later, I started developing this strange rubbing, almost scraping sound when backing of the garage in reverse and the diving speeds of like 5-10 mph. It has to be wheel related becuase the sound goes in and out as the wheel goes around.
Put the car up on jack stands , checked fender plastic underneath the wheel wells, dchecked the dust sheild on the rotors, checked the tires out, even spun the rotor around with my hand and I couldn't replicate the sound?
Just Started about 5 days ago and was only noticeable at slow speeds every other day, then today it seemed worse and I can almost hear it when driving 25-35 mph and I'm also starting to feel it in the steering and body of the car as a vibration.
I just want to get this car back running smooth... Just put new suspension on as well, new strut bearings, but I had to reuse the strut mounts because the dealership was out of mounts. Don't think the suspension has anything to do with it, but you never know. How to upload a video... I can see if I can somehow record the sound.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
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When driving at slow speeds and when I go over a bump in the road, I'll hear something like the metal part of the wheel scraping something as its turning. Only comes from the front drivers side wheel. It's audible enough that people usually turn to look when I'm in a parking lot.
Took it to the dealer, they 'test drove' it. Said they couldn't hear anything. Then said that whatever I'm hearing is 'normal suspension noise'. So after leaving it a full day at the dealer, nothing has changed. Since when is ANY suspension noise normal? But I don't think its the suspension. What to do? Take it back? Take it to another dealer?
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