Ford - Contour :: 1998 SE Will Turn Over But Won't Start
Feb 9, 2014
I have a 1998 Ford Contour se 2.0. The alternator went out in the beginning of January. Had it replaced, got it back it ran for a couple of days and it just died on me and wouldn't start. So back to the shop it went, fuel filter was clogged so they changed it, and I got it back last Friday. It ran until Saturday morning and as I was driving down the road it just died!! Just like that...died. Got it to run for a few seconds...it would die.
Finally got it back home and now it won't start. It will turn over, but won't start. If it does start it won't stay running longer than 2 or 3 seconds. I've had the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and spark plugs checked. Everything is fine. Oh and yes, it has 3/4 of a tank of gas in it. What is wrong with this thing?? It also has around 151,000 miles on it.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I drive a 98 Ford Contour Sport. When I was driving today, I signaled a left turn, and the signal began working erratically. This also happened with a right turn, and, since I deliver sandwiches, happened when I turned my hazards on. Throughout the day it got worse, and eventually stopped working. I'm willing to bet that it's a wiring issue since all of my fuses are fine.
View 5 Replies
I have a 99 Ford Contour that sporadically refuses to start. The engine will turn over (is that the right term?), but it won't "catch," for lack of a better way to put it. It seems to happen more frequently when the gas gauge is at 1/4 of a tank or below. A dealership told me it was the fuel pump need repair (more than the car is worth), but a second opinion from an independent garage says it might not be the fuel pump.
(Though they don't know what is causing the issue because, of course, it never behaves the same when the mechanic drives it). The second issue, which may or may not be related, is the vibration in the car. It happens only if I turn on the AC or heat. And I do mean shake - it's very noticeable and loud. The motor mount has been checked and that's not the issue.
View 1 Replies
1998 explore will not start when hot will turn over sputter and die, after 15 minutes it will start right up that was last monday when it was 80 outside it now colder outside has not done it again, the only thing i have seen that temp gauge is not going past cold never getting to center it will try and drop back down...
View 11 Replies
1998 Ranger, 3.0 liter manual transmission. The vehicle recently has had the engine replaced. Still a 3.0 Liter, but possibly is from a 1995 or 1996 Ranger. Replacement motor from a wrecking yard, appears to have been sitting for quite some time prior to purchasing. I had a friend change the motor out after getting the vehicle a few weeks ago.
Ranger drove fine for a week, but this morning it wouldn't start. One click is all it would give when you turned the key. Thinking the culprit was the all in one starter/solenoid, I replaced it with a new one this morning. Now the solenoid will click continuously when the key is turned, starter still will not rotate then engine.
Battery tests good - 12.4 volts; connections appeared fairly corroded.
Here is what I have done:
- Clipped off the first half inch of corroded terminal leads, replaced both sides with new battery connectors and wire brushed connections off at battery and starter.
- Replaced Starter
- With "S" connector disconnected, attempted to bypass starter connections and short terminals to see if a faulty clutch position sensor was to blame; shorting did not produce anything other than turning the key did.
- Paralleled an additional cable from battery to starter terminal to see if corroded wire connections were to blame; still just clicked repeatedly when attempting to start.
Crankshaft does rotate manually, does not appear to be seized up. Unsure of what else to check for. Not confident in friend's engine installation abilities, he may have screwed up something I'm not thinking of. On the other hand, I don't believe I would have been capable of swapping out the motor myself.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
View 1 Replies
My 98 Yukon won't turnover. There is power to everything, but when I turn the key nothing happens. What's wrong?
View 3 Replies
When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
View 1 Replies
We have replaced the pcm : Still no motor turn over -no start !
New Battery and cables !
All-- fuses and relays-- were checked and are ok !
No ignition to the starter - motor will not turn over !
Jumper wire from control center starter relay -then motor turns over !
We are at a Loss here - Could it be the ignition switch? Neutral safety switch ?
View 13 Replies
My dad has a 1998 S10, 4.3 2wd. He said it gave all clues to a starter going out. We replaced the starter and solenoid, charged the battery and got clicking. The lights turn, radio, etc. When we turn it over, we get clicking and that's it. Not sure where to go from here?
View 3 Replies
My daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon with 125K that has a new battery, new battery terminals, and new cables. However, at random times it will not start when you turn the key. You turn the key...all the lights come on but nothing. It does not turn over, make any noises nothing. If you continually turn key off/on it starts most of the time. On the occasion it does not start after a few off/on turns it jump starts easily. This occurs about 2-3 times a week. What could be happening? Could it have anything to do with the security system?
View 3 Replies
Mostly occurs at high speeds and climbing hills. Could it be a transmission problem? Or a fuel pump?
View 2 Replies
1996 Ford Contour 4cy. Runs great, except once in a while driving down the highway, it seems to go out of gear and then back in. Shakes violently. Have to pull over. Never know when it will happen. Once/twice a month maybe. Always when it is warm. Never in a Michigan winter. I have done all the normal tranny maintenance. Neutral Safety switch ???Other then that, the tranny shifts great.
View 1 Replies
I've got smoke coming out of my oil dipstick tube. 1996 Mercury Mystique 2.0L automatic, 62000 miles. I noticed a burning oil smell after a short (10 mile) drive, and checked the oil when I got home. A few wisps of smoke smelling of burning oil came out of the dipstick tube when I removed the stick. I was just curious how worried I should be about this.
As far as I can tell, my cooling system works (radiator hoses are warm, good hot air from the vents, thermostat and coolant recently replaced, hoses inspected, no leaks) and I'm not thinking the burnt oil is caused by overheating. There hasn't been any noticeable oil consumption, and I'm pretty diligent about checking the oil on this old car. Oil changes every 3000 miles since I've owned the car; dealer performed scheduled maintenance for the old owners.
Here's my thinking: a worn piston ring allowing oil to be burnt and then sucked back through into the crankcase. When I changed my spark plugs, I did notice an oily residue on one of the plugs (cylinder #1), which also leads me towards a piston ring diagnosis (though I was hoping it was a valve seal causing the oily spark plug, or even a spark plug seal). Do a wet compression test is in order, or should I go ahead and get a leakdown test? I am going to buy a compression tester, but I do not have an air compressor to use with the leakdown tester; I'd have to take it to a shop.
I do need to service the PCV system (and would have done it today, but the parts hadn't arrived at the store) -- would a PCV problem cause the oil to burn, though?
View 12 Replies
I drive a 1998 Ford Contour, the transmission goes into neutral on takeoff in drive, you can manually shift through the gears and get going, but not from drive.
View 1 Replies
Car started to jerk when 30mph and up. I changed the fuel filter and oil. Car was ok for a couple of days, however it started to make lound sounds, needing a muffler. i took it to the shop and it needed a flex pipe. All was well for a day, than the car had trouble staying started. It would drive fine, but when you are stationary at a light or stop sign the car wanted to stop. Took it to the shop and the guy said it need a pvc pipe/hose.
The guy told me that the pipe had rotted and it was at the back end of the engine. Car was good for several days, however it now started back jerking at 30mph and up. It will not do it all the time but sometime. It's like the cruise control is going on off. You can step on the gas, but the car will not go any faster, 'just stay the same speed.' When speed is drop it will be ok, but will jerk for a period of time and then stop.
View 1 Replies
I have a 99 contour svt and every once in a while the hazard lights will flash even while I'm driving.
View 1 Replies
So, I have a 1995 Ford Contour that I purchased in May from it's previous owner.
Within the past couple weeks, I've noticed a combination of sounds coming from under the front of the car, especially on the left side and especially when I slow down and make left turns. I know nothing about cars and I just worry about my car sounding like a sinking ship.
View 1 Replies
I was driving the car yesterday and was getting on the highway ramp and stepped on the gas and car went crazy. It started to accelerate and decelerate by itself. I had no control of the car whatsoever. When driving at 0 to 40mph no problem so far, but anything over this car will jerk, like it's changing gears by itself, 'going fast and slow.'What is this? Do I need a fuel filter, or plugs or what? I don't know when the last time I changed anything the car mileage is 135,000
View 1 Replies
I have a 4 cylinder 2000 Ford Contour 133k miles
I've only driven the car for about 2 months, Ive never had an issue with it until yesterday other than an occasional hard shift when driving the car hard. Yesterday when I dropped the car in drive it wouldn't pull at all, I sat in my apartments parking lot continually revving the car high in drive but it wont do anything, its like the car is in neutral. Reverse works and I can drive by manually shifting from first to second and then putting the car in drive, but if I put it into drive before reaching 3rd gear it jumps back to neutral.
I checked the linkage, and the lever it connects to on the transmission; when put into drive the position of the lever coincides with the neutral position. I called a few local transmission shops and they diagnosed is as a broken sprag, but from reading online it seems like it could be a clogged transmission filter or a faulty transmission range sensor. Prior to this issue I would sometimes here a whistle coming from under the hood when driving, I didn't know until today that a whistle is indicative of a vacuum leak, but wouldn't it throw on my check engine light? I have checked my transmission fluid, its at the correct level and is a nice cherry red, it doesn't have any bad or burnt odor.
View 7 Replies
