I have a 93 escort with a 140,000 miles with the 1.9 and AT. Sometimes when I go to accelerate the fastest it will go is about 10mph no mater how far I have the gas pedal pushed, and the engine does not rev up at all. It just acts like I am coasting and not using the gas pedal. The car idles fine and will rev up and down when in park.
View 3 RepliesIn Drive the engine revs but wont accelerate more than 25mph. D1, D2, and reverse work as usual. Fluid is dark, but no debris, no burnt smell. Should I change the fluid & filter? The shop said that would make it worse.
View 1 RepliesThis morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
Ignition coil replaced twice in 3 weeks, engine still cuts out randomly and "service engine soon" light flashes on.
View 3 RepliesI recently replaced a bad head gasket on this car. After putting the reworked head back on the engine and putting everything back together, I can't get fuel to the engine. I cheated and took the intake manifold out and bolted it to the head and then set it back in the car plugging my injectors back into the manifold once in there. I checked all my electrical connections and they are all good. I am not getting power to the fuel pump, which was replaced a year ago when I first started tinkering with fixing the car. I get power to and from the inertia/fuel cut-off switch, but it doesn't appear to get to the fuel pump. I checked all the injectors to make sure they were seated properly which they were and all the fuses both under the dash and hood that I know about and then some. When I pull the 30amp fuse under the hood, and replace it, I do hear a sound that sounds like something is pressurizing or pumping for a second or to, but the sound is from under the hood and not from the pump/gas tank area.
View 2 RepliesMy 2002 Ford escort won't start when the engine is cold, and by cold I mean less than about 80 degrees F. I have to crank it multiple times to get it to start, and then it usually runs for a little while and dies. When I first start it, if I press the gas it dies immediately. Once the engine is warmed up, it runs perfectly and you would never know there is a problem. It also starts fine if the engine hasn't been off for very long, and is still warm. I have already replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, and fuel pump. I have also run fuel system cleaner through it, and changed the oil/filter.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Escort with ~128,500 miles on it.
When I start the engine (either cold or hot), occasionally the engine will sound like it is missing and, if I step on the accelerator to give it more gas, after ~10-15 seconds the engine runs fine and the problem disappears. The engines shuts off if I don't step on the accelerator.
This happens approximately 3-4 times per week and I drive the car every day. I never know when the problem will arise.
I took the car to a Ford dealer to have it looked at and the mechanic, without doing any testing, said that it was either a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. The mechanic later then ran some tests upon my request and confirmed that it was not a leaking head gasket or a cracked head. No further tests were performed at that time, so I still am left without any definitive answer as to what is causing the problem.
1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
View 1 RepliesMy car, '99 ford escort,' engine light just came on when I started the car. I took it to autozone for one of those checks with the machine thingy. The code was PO171 bank 1 system 2 lead. The girl at autozone told me that I may need a oxygen sensor. What is a bank 1? What do I say when I go to the repair shop?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 ford escort with a 2.0 SOHC engine and for the last week or so it was making a tapping noise but it was intermittent. Today, I revved the motor up slightly and it started making this horrible clanking noise and then it stalled out. I tried starting it up and when it did start to run, it made the same clanking noise then it shut off. I tried to start it up and it wont even turn over. Its acting like it seized up but I am not sure if its in the top end or the bottom end. Now I know the CVH engines are notorious for dropping valve seats but I am not sure how to diagnose it if that is what happened.
View 6 RepliesLast year my car popped up with the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. I am cheap so I went out and bought a code reader- code 1443 came up. Online I found this information: 1443-Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault. I bought something from Ford for $81, erased the code and it came back on a week later. I just kept erasing it. It quit coming back on in November so I figured the bulb had burned out but the Light came on when I started the car. So I just ignored it. Now that the weather has warmed up again the light comes back on with the same code. Other question. Are there any modern cars that are as easy to work on as, say, a 68 Falcon? Or even a 74 Pinto? I don't expect real ease I just want to be able to stick my hand in the engine compartment with a blood sacrifice.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 escort 2.0L sohc is having idle issues. It idles perfectly after a cold start. When the engine warms up, the engine starts to lope, and often dies. I've searched for leaks and replaced parts that are the most obvious possible reasons. Also replaced some parts that were questionable. The head was cracked and the gasket blown. It was obviously like that for quite some time. There was only a leak between the coolant and cylinder.
So far I've replaced: fuel pump, fuel filter, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump(trashed), thermostat, cts, radiator fan switch, head w/gasket, radiator cap, iac valve, ccrm, pcm/ecu, tps, cleaned maf sensor, cleaned intake, cleaned injectors, new injector o-rings, spark plugs, coil, checked and cleaned pcv valve. Knock sensor is ordered, and O2 sensor will be installed soon.
The loping goes away with the headlight and/or A/C on. The car previously would overheat without the cooling fan switching on, hence the cooling parts being replaced.
My radiator cooling fan is on all the time. This is a 93 escort wagon with the 1.9 L engine and A/C. Even when the engine is stone cold the radiator cooling fan is always on. I might note that the A/C switch is OFF and as you might guess, the A/C compressor is off as it should be. On most vehicles and I presume this escort is the same, when the A/C is activated the radiator cooling fan will be activated as well. Do you know of a few things I should check that would cause the radiator cooling fan to be activated as soon as I turn the key to start, then run, even though the engine is stone cold?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Thunderbird with the 4.6 V8. I have owned it since it was a year old, it now has 70,000 miles on it. A couple years ago it developed a problem while driving. Hard to explain, but seems like it is misfiring or there a fuel restriction somewhere. This shows up when i floor it, the transmission kicks down and the engine struggles to accelerate, you can feel when it clears up, the car shoots forward. It seems like if i smoothly step on the pedal it is better, but not always.
This problem is also noticeable when the revs are low, like just before the transmission shifts down, like when climbing a hill, you can feel a shudder, if i accelerate and the transmission shifts so the revs are higher the problem goes away. Also, shutting off the overdrive so the revs increase works too. It really feels like the engine to me, although it does not go as far as to backfire.
2 years ago i replaced the auto transmission and torque converter with a factory one direct from Ford.To diagnose what i think is an engine problem i have: replaced the fuel filter (wasn't dirty) removed the injectors and had them cleaned and tested (they were fine) checked the fuel pressure (fine) checked the vacuum (fine) removed the exhaust to look for cat blockages (nice and clean) replaced the plugs, wires, and coils checked that the timing was in spec, although i don't think there is a way to adjust it
The car has the early version of OBDII - it does not have any active errors.
The car starts and idles fine, cold or hot, and when it is not acting up, still has excellent power. It does sit inside all winter though.
It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.
I have a 97 f150 4.6, when I'm towing a load and trying to accelerate a little harder either to just gain speed or climb an incline I get this terrible crackling noise from my engine as if I was low on coolant or low on oil. But all my fluids are good. It even does it when I'm climbing an incline not loaded. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesI got some issues with my f150 2009 supercab... 6,5 box 5.4 6speed 160k on it...
For the past 30 k my truck vibrates between 20/30 kmh when accelerating mostly when making a right turn and when engine is warm, feels just like driving with 4x4 and doing a u-turn....
I'll get the transmission flushed but didn't work (does shift smoother though). They said the u-joints were still good ,no play. I don't hear any strange noise either
In the last while i read a lot about trouble with the pinion angle/driveshaft/slip yoke and what all on the newer f150
Can I grease the slip yoke myself easily or? Is there a complete aftermarket driveshaft available that solves the problem permanently instead of temporary or would it be the transfercase? Cause i didn't buy this truck new so not sure if the transfer case oil ever got changed,or does it not need to be changed ever?
I have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"
2010 F150 XLT 4.6V .... Not too long ago my truck started making this whining/roaring noise when I accelerate. It does not matter what speed I am going from the slowest to the fastest it makes this noise but it does not make it when it is idle or at least it is not loud to the point where I can hear it while inside my truck. I am not sure what this can be I am at about 51,000 miles and have no problems other than the noise besides the fact that to me it seems as if it pulls at times when I drive it but others say they don't feel it pull. So I am not sure what is going on and I do not want to take it to any mechanic I'd rather fix it myself and know what is going on with my vehicle?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 3.5 eco boost. It has 82,000 miles. I just purchased a large travel trailer. That is the first thing I have ever towed. When I was accelerating onto the interstate the engine started making a chirping noise.( not the normal turbo whistle). It went away when the rpms came down, and now every time I accelerate, it makes the same noise around 2000-2500 under load.
View 6 RepliesSo after this weekend's hurricane my 2011 f-250 started to making a noise when I accelerate. I don't know if water got in some where. But there's no MIL light coming on.
View 11 Replies