Ford - Escort :: Lights Dimming / Low Fuel Light Coming On
Jan 23, 2013
The car has 269,231 miles. A few days ago, my wife said the lights began dimming, the fuel indicator needle began dropping and rising and the low fuel light came on (with 3/4 of a tank). Thinking it was some kind of electrical issue, I took it to the local parts store and had the battery, starter, alternator, etc, checked. There was a little corrosion build up on the positive battery terminal but everything else checked out ok.
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I have an '88 EXP Escort with the non-HO 1.9L
I was noticing a rough idle (vibrating, sounded like it was bogging down)
I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still happening.
Noticed that my o2 sensor was unplugged. Plugged it back in. Still happening.
Went to check the air filter and noticed the insane amount of fuel that was coming from my injector.
I am getting horrible gas mileage (8-12mpg)
Here is a video of what I am seeing: [URL] ....
What would be causing that much fuel to be sent out?
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Here is my car info:
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1994 Ford Escort LX (Wagon)
1.9L SEFI engine
Just installed a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt (the car was running great)
Here is the exact sequence of events that caused the issue:
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I was working on the car
I backed up on to wheel ramps so that I could check the exhaust
I noticed that the car was idling high, so I removed and lubed the IAC with WD-40
I put the IAC back in place with grey RTV and tightened it down ( It's not leaking at all )
Here are the exact symptoms:
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I turn on the ignition switch
The fuel pump pumps and sounds normal
The Fuel gauge shows about 3/4 tank (which is accurate... I recently filled the tank)
The low fuel light comes on (which makes no sense to me)
When I turn the ignition to the start position, the car cranks and sounds normal, but it doesn't even attempt to run. When I crank the car the Low Fuel light goes off, but the Fuel Cutoff light comes on (only while cranking). I also notice a slight smell of gasoline, but I can't find any fuel leaking or dripping anywhere!
What I've tried:
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Looking for fuel leaks ( can't find any). Made sure the IAC is properly connected.
Verified and tested the Inertia switch in the right rear of the car ( it is working properly and has not been tripped). When I trip it, the fuel pump does not run. When I reset it the fuel pump works properly again.
Disconnected the + battery cable for 5 minutes or more in an attempt to reset the ECU. It didn't work. Symptoms remain the same.
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Last night, I was driving around and noticed that my lights seemed to be flickering and dimming like CRAZY. It was really bad. Not just the headlights, but all the lights. The climatronic, radio, dash, map etc. The climatronic seemed to make things worse, but it did it even without it on.
Then I was in my buddys driveway in neutral and noticed that if i gave it some gas, the lights got brighter...it wasn't a small difference either...like when the lights dimmed, it was nearly HALF as bright! its like the car was losing juice big time...
I checked my battery cables this morning and they're tight. the car starts right up in the cold so I don't think its my battery. what other signs of alternator failure would i be noticing, or could it be something else?
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How do I test the fuel injector for leaking? I think it may be leaking fuel into the throttle body after sitting for a few minutes, causing a rich or flooded condition which makes it difficult to start after it has been warmed up.
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Over the past 2 weeks or so I have had to change the fuel pump and the alternator because i thought that was the problem. I noticed when i first had problems the fuel pump wasn't charging so i changed that. then days later my car started to completely die when I tried to start it(not turning over, no lights no nothing). i tried a new battery it would still die. So I installed a new alternator. My car worked fine for about a week-week and a half before last night.
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Done all the coding through long coding so it should be fine, however I think it might be the case (of wrong voltage, I am using leds in interior lighting, or it is due to some comfort options....)
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My 2006 Sonata GLS headlights dim along with the entire lighting electrical system when my car slows down past 1500 RPM. Why??? I had the car worked on 2 weeks after i got it because of this and they replaced a timing chain thinking this was the problem, but it wasn't.
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My car came stock with the LED strip on the grill and was wondering if there's a way to keep the lights from dimming when the headlights are on?
Noticed that with the stock ones but they get dimmer when you're headlights are on. I want to keep a constant brightness.
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So the past week I've noticed that on occasion my dash lights will get really dim then randomly come back to full on (to where I have it set at.). Is this normal?
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My wife has a 2006 Sonata and it ran great up until about a month ago, she started noticing when she hits the brakes and sometimes when she hits the gas the a/c blower motor would stop blowing for a second and all the lights would dim. So i drove the car for a day and she was right. the blower motor shuts off and the lights dim for roughly 1 second during breaking then it all works fine again.
What this could be? the car has no check engine light on or anything. I was hoping this is a common thing with a known fix.
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Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
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