Ford - Explorer - Transmissions :: 1992 - Engine Won't Turn Over?
Sep 28, 2014
1992 Fod Explorer XLT: When I attempt to turn over the engine, the flywheel spins, but the engine doesn't. This is a very gently driven vehicle. I drove home hone day, backed into the driveway and unloaded the groceries. The next morning, when I tried to start it, the engine will not turn over. I dropped the starter and tested it--all good. While I had the starter off, I found I could spin the flywheel freely--appears to not be attached to the engine. It's tight with no play whatsoever. Last year I had a new flywheel installed--something I would do myself, but decided I'm at the age, I'm just not up for it. It's been running great for 18 months with no problems. There was never a noise. This just happened one morning. I thought the crank may be broken, but that seems unlikely since it was driving great until the next morning.
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I have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
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My 92 Explorer 4WD has a coolant leak somewhere at the front of the engine above the water pump. I assume it's the lower intake manifold gasket leaking. The engine has 170k miles. I'm also seeing a small amount of white smoke, possibly steam when the engine is running. It's somewhat heavy when I start it up but mostly goes away once warm, so I suppose it could be steam, but could be coolant from either a head gasket leak or lower intake leak.
I also get a lot of water from the exhaust dripping on to the floor and the smell of the exhaust could be that of coolant, it's hard to tell. There is no coolant in the oil. I was wondering if I should go ahead and change the head gaskets while I have the intake out. Is there anyway to be certain the head gaskets are fine? I'd hate to change the intake gasket to find out there's a small leak in one of the head gaskets.
One other thing: I failed emissions because my CO was too high, but my HC and NOx were very low. Could this be an indication of coolant entering the combustion chamber? Just wondering why my CO was so high yet everything else passed (Massachusetts emissions).
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I've been watching my mother's 1976 Fiat convertible this summer. It had been taken to the shop about 6 weeks ago and it's been running fine without any problems. I had to leave for about three weeks and now the car will not start.
When I turn the key in the ignition with the clutch engaged, the engine turns, but pressing down on the gas pedal has no effect. The engine doesn't rev nor does it catch. There is gas in the tank and clean oil. I checked all the connections I didn't find anything loose.
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96 Ford Explorer, 78,000 miles After about an hour on the highway (60 mph), the vehicle slows and cannot increase in speed. It does this until it slows to less that 20 mph. Pushing on the accelerator increases the rpm, but does not result in an increase in speed. It only does this after an hour or more on the highway (city driving does not cause the problem). No one can diagnose the problem; already took the vehicle to the dealership and a transmission specialist (both said nothing was wrong). Hoping very much to keep this vehicle.
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer, Eddie Bauer 4WD is making noises when the vehicle is at 2000RPMs. Below or above 2k RPM's no noise. Sounds like a very angry rattle snake. I seem to drive at speeds that require it to be at 2k RPM all the time. So needless to say as fall is approaching and I have the windows open, my hair is now falling out and not blowing in the fall air. I want to get it looked at, but don't know what to tell the mechanic to look for.
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Engine will turn over but not start. it is getting spark and gas I checked coil, replaced plugs and distrib. I checked timing and firing order. Since there is spark and gas shouldn't I at least get a backfire?
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I have a '92 Honda Accord LX and has 200,000 mi. When I tried to start the car it will not start. The engine will not turn over and a rapid clicking will follow a few seconds later. I do not think its the battery b/c the radio still works as well as the lights. I'm suspecting it might be the starter motor or the solenoid?
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Why is my 1992 ford explorer self accelerating between 15- and 25 mph?
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1997 Ford Explorer 4.0L the engine just died while idling. The engine will not turn over at all. Battery and cables are good. Able to get engine to turn over with screw driver on starter relay but still won’t start. Checked spark when bypassing relay with screw driver and spark is Ok.
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VEHICLE: 1992 Ford Explorer, 4.0, 4wd Automatic, CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS w/ 59,000 Miles...
PROBLEM: Engine rolls over great, BUT No Spark, No Fuel
Here are the tests I've done:
- Each and every relay √
- Each and every fuse √
- Ensure inertia switch hadn't popped √
- Directly connect 12 volts to pump & pump came on √
- By-pass inertia switch √
- Replace PCM √
I'm thinking it's time to start checking grounds and chasing wires....
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I purchased a 1992 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer edition two weeks ago from a private dealer. Last week I went to start the car, and it started, but then turned off almost immediately. I dismissed it at the time saying I did not turn the key long enough or far enough because when I tried it again, it started.
However, this morning (05/06/14) it turned itself off again. It was on for about a second or two before it died. I started it again and pumped the gas. It started for me but it sounded rough like it might die again.
I am not sure how to fix this. The previous owner did not mention that there was any problem. I am thinking that I'll either need to replace the battery or the spark plugs.
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I am going to look at a 92 Explorer soon and the owner says the transmission is shifting early.... I'm not exactly sure what they mean by it and I haven't gone and test drove it myself yet, I'm just trying to get opinions on what to look for and hoping it doesn't mean the end soon to come for this tranny. I was thinking maybe the vac. modulator could be the issue but I don't really know much about these Explorer's, as I've only owned one for about 2 months. It's a 92 4WD.
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I have an '92 Explorer 4X4 with a stuck emergency brake. I have tried tugging on the lines from the back of the truck (where the line splits into two beside the frame). The brake is stuck in the on position, and when I pull the release nothing happens. It has been cold here lately, so i thought they were frozen, but after pulling the release lever, it seems like a mechanical issue.
Any temporary solution that get my truck drive-able and to my mechanic for a closer look. I am not very mechanically inclined but it seems to me that the release lever is pulling at nothing and not moving the cog to release the actual emergency brake.
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I have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
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1992 Ford Explorer XLT 4wd 4.0L (California vehicle) runs good for about 15 minutes, then suddenly starts 'chugging,' loses power, and check engine light comes on. After sitting overnight, it will again run good for about 15 minutes, then repeats the problem.
This problem began AFTER smog check test failed (it ran smoothly all the time before) and after, as was recommended to me, I replaced the 02 sensor. (Failure of smog check, it turns out, was more likely because, unknown, a 10" piece of exhaust pipe was missing, so Catalytic Converter was not connected to the tailpipe).
I had a mechanic scope the Explorer but he could not determine a specific failure from the codes, although he suggested possibly it's the missing 'Octane Adjust Shorting Bar,' or maybe the 'crank position sensor' is bad, but he could not give a diagnosis.
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Something is snapping/clunk in 4 wheel about every 20-100' driven on the left side. Slightly notice it in 2 wheel but 4 it's loud and you can feel the clunk. It's almost like when you feel the transfer case bind up, yet feels like it's right in the left side, up front. Yes I have to put new tires and rotors up front, upper and lower ball joints and inner tie rod on the right side. U joint in front drive lines feel solid.
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I have a 2009 Kia Rio5 that has started to have a strange, intermittent issue. It's an automatic and sometimes when I turn my car on and go to put it in to gear, the car sort of shudders and it feels like something is having a hard time moving in the front of the car. The act of shifting is easy but it sounds/feels like the car is having trouble with it. Then, when I get going, the shift up from 1st to 2nd has the same symptom. The car shudders, there is some lag, and then it goes in to gear. After that it feels, but is hard to determine, that it doesn't downshift after it goes up into a higher gear. When I slow down my RPMs drop to an oddly low amount and accelerating from a stop is quite different. The car has ~33k miles on it and the transmission fluid looks ok. There are no lights indicating an error.
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My daughter's 2002 Saturn S-series coupe has a manual transmission. Lately it has been jumping out of 2nd gear, and occassionally 4th and reverse. What is the most likely cause?
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Well i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
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