I just put an '86 5.0 engine from an F150 2wd pickup in my '87 truck of the same model. The motor was running when pulled but when I set in the '87, it won't run. I've replaced coil, distributor assembly, plugs, wires, throttle body, checked timing etc. I've got spark through the plugs and fuel in the cylinder but with no luck. Don't know where to turn next.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 Ford Ranger 2.3L, it's the truck I learned to drive in (stick at 13yo) and the 1st car I crashed too... So now this baby is almost 30 years old and recently had a minor restoration...
Engine was pulled out and all gaskets were changed, spark plugs, wire... All that stuff... It has been running pretty good, however last week a water line broke on the Left side near the spark plugs (if you are looking at the truck)
Since then It has absolutely Zero power. The slightest hill and even when pedal to the floor will lose power. Yesterday went from the start of a hill at 60mph in 4th to 20mph in 2nd because it didn't have the guts to go 1/3 mile uphill... I checked everything I could, and my brother took it to the exhaust guy who made a small hole on the Catalytic Converter and said it was good, but he could tell it was running too rich...
I replaced some of the vacuum lines last night, I found a lose one on the fuel pressure regulator (I think that's what it is, Its towards the engine firewall on top).
Idles beautifully, drives great, no rough shifting, pinging or knocking, no misfires. So that's what has me stumped... Runs great but just no power... Also before water line broke it was running fine with power...
1987 Ford Ranger
2.3L FI
5sp manual, Rwd
1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
View 4 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
04 intrepid cranks but won't start no spark at the plugs 2.7v6 could it be the pcm...
View 2 RepliesRecently replaced head on my 95 civic 1.6 Vtec, i had to replace the head gasket a few years ago so i know what to do. My problem now is that it will not start and has no spark to the plugs, i have new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, even tried a new distributor but took it back since it changed nothing. I pulled a plug wire, removed the plug and plugged it into the wire, turned the engine over and no spark.I've checked voltage to the distributor with ignition switch on and as far as i can tell it's getting voltage to the distributor. But when i try to crank it the engine turns over but will not start. It is getting gas, i took the fuel rail off with the injectors and checked for flow. I've taken timing cover off a couple of times to make sure all timing settings were as they should be. I even went ahead installed a new ignition switch which made no difference. Waste of time and money. I've checked several times to make sure all electrical connections are good. I really hope this turns out to be a simple fix but right now i'm at a loss. ECM maybe?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 129K. The car overheated and resulted in changing the head gasket and piston rings. Now the car will not start with all six spark plugs installed. It will only start and run for a short period time with three spark plugs on the driver side installed.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
View 3 RepliesI purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger last year. Within the first two months of ownership, the vehicle was having a cylinder 4 misfire. To fix it, I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires and cap - replacing the wires, plugs and cap fixed the issue. The issue went away for four months when cylinder 4 misfired again. I brought it to a repair shop and they again replaced the wires and plugs. The vehicle now has a cylinder 6 misfire.
There has to be something causing these plugs to continually go bad. Rather than just replacing the plugs again, I'd like to attempt to be proactive and fix the root of the issue. I've googled the issue and some of the forums seem to indicate a bad EGR valve.
I have a 2002 Ford Focus coming up on 150k... still drives fine, but when I went to change the plugs today, I found all four of them submerged in oil. What's going on?
View 3 RepliesSstripped threads using an impact to remove the plugs?
View 4 Repliesis there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 RepliesI'm working on a 1987 Ford F150 that's cutting out at speeds above 45mph. The ignition system and fuel pressure checks out OK, but it still cuts out at speed. Today I noticed a new symptom and a rather bizarre one at that. If you slam a door or hood, the engine speeds up 500 rpm and then settles back down.
View 2 RepliesThe truck will not get up and go. When you step on the gas it cuts out and acts like it is going to die. When you give it a lot of gas in idle it also makes a popping sound. When I first tried to figure out what was wrong the catalytic converter got red hot, so I took it to a muffler shop. They said it was not the cc. They then put a new distributer cap on it and an EGR sensor. Still does not run right. The following is what I have put new on it since:
Spark plugs and wires
EGR Valve Throttle position sensor
Fuel filter Fuel Pressure Regulator
Took it to another muffler shop again they said it was not the cc and did a throttle body clean out. I have put fuel injecter cleaner in the gas. When there was a gauge on the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure did not go above 30 PSI and when you stepped on the gas, the gauge read between 10 and 5. Also it does this more so when driving rather than idle and especially when you have to give it gas (like going up a hill) and it seems to hesitate more so after being warmed up. The fuel pump is working according the the ASE master mechanic that tested it with his gauges.
I have a 1987 ford F150 302 we were ran off the road and went over a side walk. When we came to a stop the truck cut off. The truck was towed back home and have been unable to crank it since then. We have checked the inertia switch, checked the firing, and changed plugs in it. The trucks will turn over but won't crank.
View 5 RepliesI want to change the spark plugs and wires in my 1996 Ford Escort (1.9 Engine).
The problem is trying to remove the No. 1 spark plug boot and spark plug. Both are located behind the alternator and are difficult to get to. I tried a boot puller but could not get easy access to the boot to pull it off the spark plug. The other three boots and spark plugs are readily accessible.
Is it sufficient to place the dielectric compound just inside the opening of the boot before placing it back on the spark plug, or should it be placed on the metal clip that is ~2-3 inches down inside the boot?
I have a 2001 Ford Expedition with the 5.4L engine. I know that there are problems with the engines blowing out spark plugs. Besides putting in sleeves and replacing the cover when necessary, any good luck with a different alternative. If not what products with the above options seem to give you the most bang for your buck.
View 16 RepliesMy '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
View 7 RepliesI am a newbie here, and also a new owner of a 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.4 engine. It has 68K miles on it and looks to have been well cared for. I have a couple questions. First the truck is runnig great, no problems. I have read the threads regarding the spark plug issues and was looking for an opinion about changing them. Should I wait until I have problems, or due to the age of the truck, should I go ahead and attempt it soon? Also, I would like to find a used cap for the bed. I have the 6.5 bed, and wondered what range of years would work with my truck.
View 3 Replies2004, 4L, sohc - Is there any issues or problems changing spark plugs?
View 4 Replies