Ford - Vibration - F150 :: 1991 - Vibrates On The Highway
Mar 9, 2011
I've got a 1991 Ford F150 Super Cab, 351 Windsor 5.8L V8, 2WD with 177000 miles on it. It rocks, I love this truck. But above 60 miles an hour I start to get a horrible vibration throughout the cab, mostly under the seat. It gets worse the faster I go to the point the whole cab vibrates. The challenge is that it only occurs when I'm on flat interstate, with just enough gas to maintain speed. If I accelerate, it goes away (or subsides quite a bit). If I let off the gas, it goes away completely. I had a transmission diagnosis from a local, reputable shop, and they said the tranny was fine. They said it was something in the engine, but I'm baffled that something in the engine could cause such a vibration all over the cab. Any thoughts on what this might be?
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I have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
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I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
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I have a 2007 Ford F-150 small box bought new, now has 80,000 miles. The rear end started to make a slight roaring noise that started to turn into a vibration. That turned into a major vibration (windshield wipers would hop). I figured a bad U-joint, but it had no "clunking sounds". I took it to a non-dealer mechanic and he said the "rear end is shot, and also a bad leaf spring..." I do not tow with this truck, or go off road, but it does have a Tommy lift installed. Does this sound normal for the miles and usage of the truck? Any recalls for this model that effects the rear end?
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i have a 1991 5 speed F-150 that i only use to plow my private rd... and have been using it like that for about 8 years. we have had quite a snowy season in NH, and it has been running good, until yesterday. while pushing snow, it idled really high... like the clutch went (had a new clutch put in 4 years, 400 miles ago.) i checked the clutch fluid. nasty brown, but no leak. it sat over night and i tried again today. same thing... except I realized it only seems to be doing it in 4 high and 2wd. in 4wd low, it seems to work fine. hoped to find some solution on the site, but there was nothing. we're getting another 4-6 tonight....
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1991 F150XLT, 5.0, E4OD....Should the EFI system bump up the idle speed when the AC system is operating to compensate for the compressor load? Obviously I'm asking because mine sure doesn't. With AC on, the idle speed will drop to around 300rpm in Drive, like when sitting at a red light for example. Surely this isn't normal operation...is it?
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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A lot of sections of the highway I frequently use is now repaved. Even on smooth looking highway sections, I feel vibration (bumping feel) from the seat and/or floor (also a little from steering). My hip and/or legs feel vibration.
I road force balanced wheels once, and then ordinarily balanced once again. I still feel vibration. I drove the same highway with 2012 Hyundai Veloster and 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback. With those cars, the drive is smooth (no vibration) on smooth looking highway.
2012 Golf TDI is my first car with sports suspension.
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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While accelerating onto the highway we get a slight vibration at just about 50mph, minor but noticeable. Something to worry about? Also, there is a water leak in the right rear tail light.
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I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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At highway speeds above 60 mph on a smooth road, the vehicle runs fine. But if the road has any bumps at all, even small ones, it starts to vibrate very fast as long as there are bumps. The steering wheel almost becomes a blur. It's like it's going into oscillation.
The wheels have been balanced and rotated. The movement the steering wheel is not side to side, like I have experienced with imbalanced wheels.
The shocks look fine and I am told that they are OK by the tire dealer . I have never had this kind of a problem with bad shocks. The vibration is just too rapid.
Before I take the truck in for the mechanic to inspect it, I would like to know what the problem might be.
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So I have a very annoying vibration in a 2005 Ford F150 FX4 5.4L w/ approx 122k miles. This 'rear-end' vibration became noticeable about a year ago when I put a new set of tires on. And just for the record, this vibration was never a problem beforehand. So it should be obvious that I have bad tires right? Thus, I instantly go back to tire dealer and explain the situation. They took it apart and checked balancing on all tires and confirmed that they were fine. So after dealing w/ it for a few weeks and rotating the tires around a few times and experimenting with pressures nothing worked. This time we noticed the U-joints were now loose on the driveshaft, which we then replaced. But this didn't fix the issue. I then took it to a separate Ford dealer to have the tires 'road force' tested, which nothing found.
I then had Ford dealer try to diagnose the issue with several trips back and forth with their apparent 'best' people on it. I went on numerous test drives explaining the issue. The vibration only seems to be noticeable on road and with speed. Not in the shop in the air. It seems to be pinpoint approx. 50-55mph. and minimal at lower speeds. Also seems to get worse with turns and bumps in the road. You can literally watch the bed of the truck vibrate in the mirrors. (also seems to be more on drivers side) It doesn't affect the steering or anything in front of vehicle.So Ford also had me come back another time to use a special vibration analyzer on it, which still found nothing. They checked ball joints, suspension, you name it. The only fix they could recommend was a new driveshaft, which I regretfully accepted the challenge and now it's sitting in my garage. It didn't work. I ended up taking my original shaft to a balancing shop and they found no issues with it. Also looked at front/4x4 shaft, however, it doesn't engage with normal driving 4x2 so shouldn't be the cause. Approx. 6 months later, I went back to same tire shop and had them exchange tires with a completely different set (factory recommended size LT275/65/18) thinking it still had to be the tires- no fix.
So then on to other things: I started with changing out the rear differential fluid- no fix. I also put on new rear brakes and rotors- no fix. I put on new rear shocks- no fix. I also took off the parking brakes and inspected all cables and housing, which could apparently stick sometimes- no fix. I cleaned all contact areas of wheels and rotors onto the wheel studs to be sure there were no abnormalities- no fix. I even took off the front 2" leveling kit and tried driving without, no fix. (But this was never a problem before.) Keep thinking it could be something more deep in the rear-differential, but most reports say it would be very rough and noisy/grinding-which it isn't. So after probably 6-7 trips to at least 3-4 shops and perhaps $600 later I now have newer tires and a spare d-shaft, which Ford won't take back by the way, and I still have the vibration.
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I have a 2000 f150, 4.6l v8. I have two symptoms that I think are related but I am not sure. The truck has 92000 miles on it. No trouble codes.
1st. I get a vibration at about 67 mph that seems to pulsate.
2nd. I get a similar vibration at about 1200 rpm in park. This one seems to be much worse when i lift my foot from the accelerator.
I have had-the truck about a month, and just had the tires rotated and balanced.
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1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
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I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
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2005 VW passat... I bought this car used. I was told the front engine mount needed to be replaced. When it was replaced, the vibration began. The mechanic used an after market mount. He replaced it with a VW mount and also replaced the two side mounts for the transmission with VW mounts. The vibration was still there. I then took it to a VW dealer and they confirmed that the mounts were installed properly and could not identify the cause. I took it to a third mechanic who made some adjustments to the front mount and that reduced the vibration somewhat. After a few months, the vibration increased and I took the car to another VW dealer. He said the front and side mount needed to be replaced. That was done and still the vibration continued. What else could be going on to cause this problem. Carfax indicated no accidents or body repairs.
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My 91 4 runner, with 192k miles, has very scarily lost power twice on the highway. She gets to about 50mph and then drops to 40, 30, 20 rapidly. First time I had her towed because I didn't want to take the chance I couldn't arrive safely at mechanic. 2nd time, I just sat for awhile with her running, and tried and succeeded to get her to mechanic. First time, mechanic thought there was some boot loose around the fuel line.Second time, mechanic is stumped.
She has new fuel & air filter (and battery + leads); catalytic converter tested fine. Had a tuneup less than 5k miles ago.While I feel safe driving around town, I am terrified of highway driving and need getting it fixed so I can resume highway driving.
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Vehicle: 1998 F150, 158k mi. MT (M5OD), 4.9l I-6.
Description of problem: About 2 weeks/500 miles ago, truck developed a scraping/squeaking sound. I thought maybe something was rubbing on the driveshaft, but inspection revealed no likely candidate, nor disturbed metal on the shaft.
Over the course of the next 500 miles, it's gotten worse, so that current symptoms exhibit themselves (to one degree or another) 80% of the time. The symptoms are:
- Worst on first drive of day, on first mile.
- Sound produced somewhere between scrape and squeak.
- Vibration noticed throughout cab and through steering wheel ONLY when foot off clutch...smooth as soon as clutch depressed.
- Giving it a little gas (at constant speed) usually smooths out symptoms somewhat.
- Recently had bed loaded to gross. Vibrations went away, to return once bed empty.
- MT fluid found to be full, in good condition, and with 15k mi since change.
So, what's up? Given that a load in the bed improves things, I was thinking U-joints: but the driveshaft spins in neutral, too, so why would pressing the clutch change anything? I also thought about tired clutch bearings, but everything I've read says pressing the clutch makes things worse, not better.
Is it worth examining the tranny-to-engine bolts?
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