Ford - F150 :: 1991 - Idled High Like The Clutch Went Down
Feb 16, 2014
i have a 1991 5 speed F-150 that i only use to plow my private rd... and have been using it like that for about 8 years. we have had quite a snowy season in NH, and it has been running good, until yesterday. while pushing snow, it idled really high... like the clutch went (had a new clutch put in 4 years, 400 miles ago.) i checked the clutch fluid. nasty brown, but no leak. it sat over night and i tried again today. same thing... except I realized it only seems to be doing it in 4 high and 2wd. in 4wd low, it seems to work fine. hoped to find some solution on the site, but there was nothing. we're getting another 4-6 tonight....
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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I've got a 1991 Ford F150 Super Cab, 351 Windsor 5.8L V8, 2WD with 177000 miles on it. It rocks, I love this truck. But above 60 miles an hour I start to get a horrible vibration throughout the cab, mostly under the seat. It gets worse the faster I go to the point the whole cab vibrates. The challenge is that it only occurs when I'm on flat interstate, with just enough gas to maintain speed. If I accelerate, it goes away (or subsides quite a bit). If I let off the gas, it goes away completely. I had a transmission diagnosis from a local, reputable shop, and they said the tranny was fine. They said it was something in the engine, but I'm baffled that something in the engine could cause such a vibration all over the cab. Any thoughts on what this might be?
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1991 F150XLT, 5.0, E4OD....Should the EFI system bump up the idle speed when the AC system is operating to compensate for the compressor load? Obviously I'm asking because mine sure doesn't. With AC on, the idle speed will drop to around 300rpm in Drive, like when sitting at a red light for example. Surely this isn't normal operation...is it?
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I have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
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I spent the day with a buddy working on his 91 ranger 4 cylinder 2WD truck because the clutch master cylinder shaft that connects to the pedal bent. We took the old part out and replaced it, but now we are having problems with the little pin that holds the line from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder in place. For some reason, even though the line is securely in position and wont budge with the pin in, it still leaks so we are unable to bleed the clutch.
I have looked all around the internet, including this site and wasn't able to come up with any explanation as to why the line is leaking, perhaps it is because the line isn't pushed in far enough, but like I said, it is securely in place and I wasn't able to push it in farther before forcing the pin into place. My buddy and I spent about 9 hours working on his truck today, including probably 3 or 4 just on trying to stop the leak.
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How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
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So this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
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I have a 2001 F-150 4.2L 2WD LS with 102k miles. At 95k miles, the clutch slave cylinder started leaking fluid. So, I had my local garage replace it. And while they were at it, put in a new clutch. That is when the trouble started.
I cannot let the clutch out like I used too. When letting out the clutch from a dead stop,the rear end now shakes, shutters, and if it is really bad, the rear end starts bouncing. To minimize the shakes, I have to keep the engine below 1000rpm until the clutch/1<sup>st</sup> gear is fully engage. It is worst when there is a load on the truck like going uphill, or a sharp turn for a dead stop. After the truck gets rolling, I don’t notice the problem when shifting gears.
I have been babying it for 7k miles and it has not improved. What is wrong? Did I get a bad clutch job?
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1996, f150, 300, 4x4, 5 speed, 296,000 miles... My pedal goes almost to the floor before the clutch engages and about a half inch, maby less, of travel back out the clutch disengages. I think it is about time for a new clutch. My question is what is the best clutch to put in my truck?
while i have the transmission slid back to replace the clutch i am planning on replacing the slave cylinder while im in there as well. Any particular brand better than the next on that item? Are there any other items that I should think about replacing while i have the transmission slid back to do the clutch?
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I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
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I know my clutch is not going to last forever and I do think Ive gotten my share of use out of it but i want to know if there is a way i can determine just how much more life there may or may not be. Although I have not looked into it yet, Ive just learned to read these awesome forums before jumping to conclusions.
I have a 2000 f150 4.2 v6 with about 180.000 miles and i am starting to lose my pedal, not much left anymore. I think. Am I able to see the clutch plate via the inspection cover?( i know stupid question). if so , what do I look for.
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I've got an unknown issue with my 07 Accent (1.6L):
There is a low tone noise coming from near the upper area of the engine. It sounds like air or fluid traveling through a hose. The tone of the noise has recently become progressively louder, so that it is noticeable over normal road noise when driving. The noise does not fluctuate in tone or intensity with changes in RPM. However, the tone changes to a higher pitched frequency, almost like a hiss, when the clutch is fully engaged and held to the floor, both when in gear and when not in gear.
What the cause may be? And potentially required maintenance?
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1996 F150 4x4 with 300/6 and M5OD mazda tranny. 145k miles on it and looking really clean, and just the truck we wanted. It used to be well cared for, but has been a bit neglected since the owner passed away.
I spent a few hours searching the forums here and didn't find anything matching my symptoms exactly so I thought I would just jump in a post, but if I missed a thread feel free to redirect me.
I've got a bit of a rattling noise as the clutch engages when taking off in first. Once the clutch is fully engaged it's quiet and it shifts well and smooth. Noise also occurs (but less so) if I don't match RPM's and ride the clutch into second or third. I don't think its engine noise from lugging or anything because it goes away as soon as the clutch is fully engaged or disengaged.
Changed the trans fluid last night and no different, Clutch fluid reservoir is full, clutch travel feels good, master cylinder looks good, (slave is hidden, but looks dry though dust cover) a little play in the white bushing that holds the clutch pedal bar in place, and the plastic pushrod that goes into the firewall, thinking about replacing this linkage.
I work on big diesels for a living so i'm not scared of getting greasy. I'm almost inclined to think someone did a clutch job without resurfacing the flywheel. Is there an improved replacement for the pedal bracket and linkage? I don't mind just doing the clutch, but I don't want to be throwing my money away.
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I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
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I now have a 1991 ranger 3.0 super cab. I need a step by step walkthrough of how to time it. Keep in mind that I ha the distributor out while turning the engine over so I need from start to finish, including the spout connector. It runs right now but idles high at the start and the. Stumbles down to about 500rpm and sometimes dies....
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So I went out this morning to start the truck up like I do every morning. It cranked once, and didn't start, which is somewhat normal. second crank it started right up, which is normal, then after about 2 minutes, it seemed like the rpms were bouncing and the engine got a little more slower and louder, then it dipped below 500, then stalled. After that moment nothing. It just cranks. Now it was VERY low on fuel, I've been this low on fuel and never had anything like this happen, so my neighbor took me up to the station and I bought 2 gallons. came back, still nada. I went out after letting it sit on the block heater for about an hour and noticed a small puddle of fuel under the truck on the passenger side. I went to start it and the fuel gauge went up to a half tank. cranked, no start. then again and it went up again but slowly started creeping back down.
Now the kicker, I have very limited knowledge of diesel engines, or gas for that matter. So if my intuition is right, this is probably going to be a learning experience for me... what should I check first guys? Its plugged in right now but I am sure that's not gonna fix it.. I am gonna change the oil first since it needs it, I bought shell rotella triple t 15w40 which im assuming is ok. last winter It was leaking fuel when it was really cold out but that was it, just leaking a bit and then after spring it went away. I know I should have fixed it when it started but I have an extreme anxiety to letting any mechanic near my vehicles and just about as much anxiety trying to fix it myself. I'm at a loss for what to do, I'm a pro with computers but this truck scares the crap out of me, I'm terrified I'll do something worse.
2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 4x4, 218,000 Miles....
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I have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
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