Ford - F150 :: 1991 - Drop Completely Out Of Gear While Going Down The Highway
Jul 14, 2014
I have become the proud owner of a 1991 Ford F-150 long wheel base with a camper shell. It has a 300ci straight 6 with an overdrive transmission. When I first started driving the truck over a year ago it had about 45000 miles on it. Obviously it had not been used much. I have since added about 15000 miles so now I am just over 60000. When I first started driving the truck occasionally it would jerk really hard when shifting. It didn't seem to matter which gear it was going into. The more I drove the worse the problem got to the point where it would drop completely out of gear while going down the highway.
Now another detail. The jerking was much worse when the outside temperature was above 50 degrees. During the winter the problem was all but none existent. I thought I was at the least looking at a transmission rebuild. Well about two months ago I decided to try something radical. When I drove in town I would turn the overdrive off and manually shift through the gears. Since my business is not far from my home and I seldom get over 50mph I would leave the overdrive off. It never would get over 2000 rpm's. After about two weeks of this I tried putting it back in drive while in town. Now there is no jerking or dropping out of gear.
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I've got a 1991 Ford F150 Super Cab, 351 Windsor 5.8L V8, 2WD with 177000 miles on it. It rocks, I love this truck. But above 60 miles an hour I start to get a horrible vibration throughout the cab, mostly under the seat. It gets worse the faster I go to the point the whole cab vibrates. The challenge is that it only occurs when I'm on flat interstate, with just enough gas to maintain speed. If I accelerate, it goes away (or subsides quite a bit). If I let off the gas, it goes away completely. I had a transmission diagnosis from a local, reputable shop, and they said the tranny was fine. They said it was something in the engine, but I'm baffled that something in the engine could cause such a vibration all over the cab. Any thoughts on what this might be?
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I got a brand new 590 HP Ford F150 Raptor with the Roush Supercharger. The car's electronics have completely shut down twice (first at about 800 miles and again at 2500 miles). I called the dealer the first time it happened and they said i must have bumped the key. I figured it could have been a fluke, but then it happened again so the car is no longer safe to drive.
I've taken it into the dealer twice and they can't find anything wrong with it unless i can recreate the problem for them. Obviously if it happens once every 1000 miles, that is tough to do. The only common theme was that it happened both times while slowing down and turning left.
I've given up on having Ford service, so i'm about to just replace the ignition on my own dime. If i didn't put $25k into it already, i'd just make the dealer take it back under lemon laws.
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i have a 1991 5 speed F-150 that i only use to plow my private rd... and have been using it like that for about 8 years. we have had quite a snowy season in NH, and it has been running good, until yesterday. while pushing snow, it idled really high... like the clutch went (had a new clutch put in 4 years, 400 miles ago.) i checked the clutch fluid. nasty brown, but no leak. it sat over night and i tried again today. same thing... except I realized it only seems to be doing it in 4 high and 2wd. in 4wd low, it seems to work fine. hoped to find some solution on the site, but there was nothing. we're getting another 4-6 tonight....
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1991 F150XLT, 5.0, E4OD....Should the EFI system bump up the idle speed when the AC system is operating to compensate for the compressor load? Obviously I'm asking because mine sure doesn't. With AC on, the idle speed will drop to around 300rpm in Drive, like when sitting at a red light for example. Surely this isn't normal operation...is it?
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I have been trying everything to get my speedo working on my Ford. It didn't work for 3 months after I got it then I decided to put some gear oil on the cable. This made it work for about 200 miles then it would only work with the clutch in and then not at all. I've replaced the speed sensor(not one on rear end the thing the cable goes into), and the gear that goes on the end of it. If I hook a drill up to the cable the tach moves. Could the cable be stretched or just needs some speedo cable lube?
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I have a 1991 Ford F150 I bought. Told the transmission was shot, long story short, found out it was just a bad clutch. Pulled the transmission, replaced the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Put everything back together, now i cant get the clutch to fully disengage. Had good pressure prior to replacement of the clutch, still has some pressure. just doesn't have enough to disengage the clutch. pulled the inspection cover, and verified the slave is moving. What is causing this issue?
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I have an ambient temp switch connected to the vac port on my throttle emissions control solenoid for my 2150 carburetor. It's a 78 F-150 with a 5.0L 302, automatic 2WD. Would a bad ambient temp switch screw up my idle? I've disconnected the vac hose and it won't idle at all, and it does the same thing when I disconnect the two wires from the ambient temp switch. If I leave everything alone, I can get the idle down to around 1800rpm, but any lower than that and it stalls.
Is it possible to swap out this throttle emissions control solenoid with another type? I've looked everywhere and can't find an exact replacement, and I have no instructions on how to tune it.
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I just bought a 1991 F150 with a 302 (5.0). It idles at around 2600-2800 RPMs. The previous owners replaced the TPS and IAC, but it still idles fast. Ford dealership told them it was a vacuum leak. Are all the vacuum lines close to each other? How easy is it to locate/fix the problem?
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I did a C6 swap on my '94 F150 4x4 recently to replace the M5OD the previous owner burned up. Just to check on things I hooked a brand new autometer trans temp gauge up to check out the temps. What I'm worried about is that on the highway (60-70 mph) it climbs up to 210*.
This was at night at about 75* outside temp. I know the C6 doesn't have a lockup converter, but these temps seem kind of high. It's not a heavy truck, not towing anything and I'm running stock sized 235's with 3.08 gearing.
For now I'm just using the internal radiator trans cooler, but I have a large factory bolt on cooler from an F350 of the same year that I plan on putting on. I have the gauge sender in the drivers side test port just in front of the shift linkage. I'm also running a deep pan that adds 2 quarts to the system.
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I got a funny shifting issues that happens infrequently that I can no figure out. It happens after driving the car for a while on the highway, but not every time, and not just on the highway.
Here is my problem... when cruising down the highway the check engine light will come on stay on for a around a minute, the the check engine light will turn off, then of which my truck will lose power, not accelerate no matter how much I stomp on the gas, until my speed drops to under 55mph.
Once I get down to 55mph the truck will drop 2 gears into 3rd gear and then I can accelerate back up to speed. This will repeat every few miles. The computer will not store the check engine code, so no codes are pulled.
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My engine stalls when cold or warm, when put in gear or idling in gear at a stop. If I left foot break and give a little gas I can usually keep it going. I ran 2 bottles of fuel injector cleaner through, but no dice. Could the fuel filter need to be replaced? If so, where is it located? 1991 Aerostar 3.0 Auto RWD
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1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
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So I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
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My 91 4 runner, with 192k miles, has very scarily lost power twice on the highway. She gets to about 50mph and then drops to 40, 30, 20 rapidly. First time I had her towed because I didn't want to take the chance I couldn't arrive safely at mechanic. 2nd time, I just sat for awhile with her running, and tried and succeeded to get her to mechanic. First time, mechanic thought there was some boot loose around the fuel line.Second time, mechanic is stumped.
She has new fuel & air filter (and battery + leads); catalytic converter tested fine. Had a tuneup less than 5k miles ago.While I feel safe driving around town, I am terrified of highway driving and need getting it fixed so I can resume highway driving.
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I have a 1987 e350 conversion. Recently the vehicle has been acting up. Once warmed up, the transmission does not drop back into low/1st gear when stopped at a light, when we go to accelerate the vehicle has no power as it tries to accelerate in drive. I have to manually shift into first which the transmission immediately kicks down. When it comes to transmissions I like to have some knowledge before bringing to a shop.
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I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I have a 1997 forkd F150 with a 4.6L Romeo engine. I have recently rebuilt the engine and now since it is put back together I am having a issues that i cannot pin point. When the truck is running and in gear my RPM drop to around 500 or below and my oil pressure drops and comes back up when the rpm's come back up this an intermittent problem and I have replaced the IAC valve and every once in a while i get a P0401 code for the exhaust recirculation. I think I am loosing some kind of vacuum. It was not doing this when I tore into the truck. It seems to be running okay not hesitation.
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
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I have recently purchased a 1999 F150 with a v-6, standard transmission (5 speed). Previous owner said he had just replaced the clutch. Here is the problem, after the truck has been running a while and after stopping the truck will not shift into gear. It does not grind or make any noise, it just won't go into any gear. The only solution is to shut the engine off, place it in gear and restart the engine. During normal travel the transmission shifts up and down without any problems. The clutch does have a slave cylinder.
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