Ford - Windstar :: 2003 - Grinding Front Brakes On Occasion When Coming To A Stop
Apr 7, 2013
My 2003 windstar SEL needed new brakes and to have the rotors turned... instead I opted to buy new discs and pads online ... To my surprise the new discs were about a 16th of an inch thinner than the old.... I changed discs and pads and was happy for a few days, but now on occasion when coming to a stop the front brakes grind terribly....the next time i stop everything is fine...visa versa...dscs feel true (no pulsing) I DID APPLY BRAKE QUIET TO THE BACKS OF PADS....
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Just got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
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Replaced both rear calipers about 4 months ago, both were frozen. A few weeks ago I started getting some bad squeaking from the front brakes. The front calipers seemed fine when I did the rears.
Tonight I had even more fun with the beast. Drove to my sons baseball game and felt an odd "grinding" when braking. *Seems* to be coming from the front. On the way home, the grinding was worse and then the fun really started. Hit the brakes and the wheels started hopping enough to shake the whole friggin' truck. Leaving from a light, you could feel the brakes stick and then release, next stop was more shake n bake.
Not sure where to start on this one.
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i have a 1999 ford windstar with 73k miles. torque converter was replaced before I got it. (about ten thousand miles ago)my van gets a quick grinding noise from the front end that lasts only a second. it only happens when i start the car and then drive about 100 feet. if I shift to park and then back to drive it won't do it. only if the engine has been stopped and restarted (even if warmed up)the transmission doesnt slip, and shifts fine. I'd love some ideas before the expensive (and only) local mechanic starts digging around.
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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Back in December i purchased a 2003 Impala LS. It has about 103,000 miles on it now. Overall the car runs and drives great. However on very rare occasions I have noticed if I have to slam on the brakes or really break hard I hear a grinding sound. Now I have only heard it maybe 3 times in the time since buying the car and never hear anything under normal braking. I had the brakes checked and was told they didn't see anything wrong, but what might cause this grinding sound I have heard a few times?
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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I recently had a flat tire - Schwabs fixed it. Then told me my rear brakes were bad so I replaced them. I noticed when coming to a stop the last 20-30 feet you can really feel the front end vibrate - almost like it is in 4wd but it is not. I checked the hubs and they are on auto and lifted the truck to spin the wheels and made sure everything was dis-engaged. My front rotors were bad so I replaced them and the pads thinking it was the root cause. I also greased the front wheel bearings using the little tool from riffraff diesel where you take out the speed sensor and insert grease.
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I have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
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Well, my saga continues on my intermittent AC problem on my 99 f350 v10. As before, the AC blows cold but mysteriously stops working on occasion when climbing a grade or stopping at a light in warm weather. I bought a gage kit and runs ~ 45/250psi on the low/high gauges. Clutch is stopping and the metal tube from the accumulator tank runs warm when this occurs.
Seems like the problem occurs when the under hood temp reaches a certain level. Thought it might have been one of the switches but the pressure seems to be OK when these problems are occurring. What/how to check to find the problem? some of my thoughts are:
1. Wire a light in the clutch engagement circuit to see if the problem is in the compressor clutch coil not working when powered up or some heat related failure of the wiring continuity.
2. Check the Hi and low pressure switches for continuity when this is happening. to do this I need to know a few things- location of the high pressure switch low press in on the accumulator) and whether the switch should be open or closed in normal operation. Also can the switches be replaced without losing the charge in the system?
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2012 f250 SC xl 6.2 - Is it normal to hear a single clunk sound on occasion when accelerating from a stop sign? Doesn't happen all the time mind you and I don't ever remember hearing it in the past.
Now just today, while backing up my driveway, as soon as I started the reverse motion, I heard the same clunk. Sounds like metal to metal and comes from the rear of the truck.
Only 7000 miles on her and I treat her like a baby...anything I should be concerned with?
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I have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
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Have 2005 excursion. Just did ball joints , wheel bearings all of them, axle joints and seals.Also warn manual hubs. Have a intermittent scraping grinding noise sounds like driver but could be both front.4wd works fine in high or low, no vibration just this annoying noise. took brakes apart and no funny wear or foreign object in dust shield.
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My 99 windstar has seemed to have issues every month since it's been paid off! Isn't that how it goes....anyway,
Just recently the heat suddenly stopped working. The fan is blowing and the temp controls seem to function correctly. There is no heat coming from the front and some IS coming from the back.
What could the problem be? Blend door, actuator, motor, evaporator core?
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I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
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The brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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