Often my car would vibrate when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign. Is that normal for all cars that have aged? My car is 2008 and have ~70k miles. Is there something going bad or is there some maintenance that I should be doing and missed?
View 13 RepliesSo, after I lower with BC Coil-over and 20" wheels (Stagger). I feel my car vibrate at a complete stop and in Drive. But when I put in neutral it stop the vibrate. When I take off from a complete stop is fine no vibrate but when I let go of the gas and let it cruise, it vibrate....
AWD GS, after lowering and with stagger wheels but it seem like the driving vibrate after after I put these wheels on. I didn't notice when i have my stock wheels on. or was it just me and 1SLOGS? I did balance all 4 tires again, I have all the hub-centric rings on all 4 wheels too.
My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
View 8 RepliesI own a 1997 Honda Civic EX. Automatic. 160,000 miles. I have had the front disk rotors and pads replaced five (5) times within the past two years due to "warped" rotor issue. I recently changed the two front calipers as well to rule out caliper issues. Yet I continually end up with a warped right front rotor weeks after putting on new rotors. Here is what happens. Car brakes fine for a week or two with the new rotors. Then shortly afterwards, the right front rotor (passenger side) quickly develops a rubbing -like noise (not a grinding noise) when braking at a low speed. It's not a constant rubbing noise but a rhythmic swoosh swoosh swoosh noise as the tire rotates and the brake is softly applied. You can feel it in the brake pedal. This noise eventually gets louder and louder the more I use the brakes (or, the hotter they get?). It can also cause the steering wheel to vibrate at certain speeds when braking.
I have had it into four different mechanics.
Mechanic 1: Your rotor is warped.
Mechanic 2: You are too hard on your brakes causing the rotor to warp.
Mechanic 3: Did you go through a puddle of water lately?
Mechanic 4: You need new brakes. Period.
This is getting ridiculous. In all my years of driving, I have never encountered this problem. I am not hard on my brakes. I do not believe the "water puddle" theory at all. I should mention, although these are not oem rotors. they are not some cheap Chinese ones either. Something must be causing this rotor to "warp" if it's really warping at all. I have had the tires rotated to rule out a bent rim. It happens no matter what tire is on the right front car. What could be causing this? A bad front end alignment... bad wheel bearing... (although no mechanic ever indicated that as a problem)... bent splash guard... bad master cylinder? Air in the brake lines... old brake fluid???
I drive a 2004 Honda Pilot with 110,000 miles. At low speeds (less than 30 mph) over a bumpy road, the car undercarriage will vibrate violently. It happens only occasionally and stops immediately when I slow down. I assume it's a suspension problem but not sure of the exact cause. I also can't figure out why it doesn't happen all the time under those same conditions.
View 2 RepliesI have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
My 2008 Honda Fit has been developing a problem for the last 6 months or so and each time I've taken it to the dealership they say there's nothing wrong. It started with the car hesitating when accelerating from a stop. This only happened if the car had been sitting for a while and it only really happened if you hit a full stop before the car had a chance to warm up, even then, it probably only happened maybe 1 out of every 10 stops.
Recently, the car has started struggling when coming to a full stop (again usually the first stop after the car has been sitting) and the car will stall out unless you give it some gas. This seems to be worse if it is cold outside (which it is now permanently cold outside) and when the car is on an incline (front higher than the back).
I took it to the dealership (because it is still under warranty) and they said the engine isn't showing any codes and the fuel pressure is fine (of course that didn't stop them from trying to sell me a new battery). However, I am concerned that this is only going to get worse and its not really acceptable for it to be stalling out regardless.
So I just bought this 08 civic LX (110k miles). After a few days of flawless driving, we noticed a couple wires NOT connected that were coming from the hood opener-sensor thing. Plugged them together and noticed no difference in the car until I let the car sit for about 6 hours then thats when the trouble started. Tried starting the car and the engine had trouble cranking then would stop. Pulled the key out and tried a couple more times and finally the engine started. The next day I had to do the same thing to get the car to start and now 2 days later the car wont even crank. No ticking, no cranking- nothing. Battery date is 10/14 so its coming up on 2 years old. When I turn the car to "On", everything works (stereo, lights, headlights, dashboard lights- everything). You would notice no difference until you tried starting the car.
I haven't gotten to it yet but I haven't tried cleaning the battery connections. Just looking at them I cannot notice any problems or visual corrosion. Im thinking that because I plugged those wires from the hood-sensor-thing, its a bad sensor and drew current from the battery while the car was off.
If this was the case then jumping the car would probably fix it but nope, not my lucky day. Jumping the car didn't work at all and before I start checking fuses and connections, what the problem could be.
I have a 2008 Honda Odyssey. Lately, we've been bothered by a sweet smell, particularly when coming to a stop at the bottom of a hill or acceleration uphill. The smell is most noticeable from the two front, center AC vents. The dealer swears it's not a hose or heater core issue. He also checked the cabin air filter. AC "on" and recirc "on" seem to exacerbate the problem.
View 3 RepliesI've saw several complaints about 2008 Honda Accord Popping at low braking speeds and start from stop only in hot weather. I've never saw a solution.
This is the other persons complaint: My Honda has a pop or clunk when braking at low speeds( below 5mph) just before coming to a stop. It will pop as I start forward again (below 5mph). It only occurs when the outside temperature is above 90-95 degrees and after driving for 10-15 minutes.
I have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
I have a 2008 LS460 with 79K miles. Everything on the car is great, except this vibration at idle while in drive. For example, when I stopped at a red light I feel this vibration through the steering wheel, in the driver seat and the passenger side. Now, when I put it in reverse, neutral or on park (foot still on or off the brake and vehicle stopped) the vibration goes away.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased a brand new 2016 LX 570 two weeks ago. It is a beautiful car and I love all the new technology but I am concerned about the transmission gear change between 2nd and 3rd. The car hesitates and vibrates when shifting between second and third gear then levels out. It a little slow and scary pulling out in traffic without just punching it. This is my first LX and just found out that the LX transmission went from 6 speed to 8 on the 2016 model. I called the dealership and they said the car is very new and they have not gotten any reports from Lexus about the transmission hesitating. Taking it in next week for service and have it checked out.
View 14 Replies2004 F150 Supercrew
44400 miles
So I turned on my truck today and the needles acted as if they were possesed. The went under the "starting points" and vibrated there for about 5 seconds or so... Very strange. I also have been getting sluggish power from the truck. Mainly between 2000 and 3000 rpms.. Sound like a diesel at times.
I have a 2002 Honda CRV that recently started to fail on me. I'll be driving and usually in front of a red light (when the car is idle), the car will stop. Luckily, the last time it happened, I was able to get the car to start back up again. Also, the car sometimes won't start (ignition won't start) from when it's been parked. It happened multiple times this past week and the mechanic apparently doesn't know what it is. He cleaned my throttle body, how smooth my car runs now (less shaky) but the problem still persists.
View 6 RepliesSo my 2004 honda civic LX with 165k miles has had some battery issues, or so it seems. While driving the car has been "shutting down", headlights fail, dash lights fail, radio sound goes off, and sometimes the car stalls. Typically this is happening when in stop and go traffic. The battery light on the dash comes on and off during these moments of failure. These issues started a few months ago when the dash maintenance light came on. I brought the car to a mechanic to see if he knew the issue. We decided to test the alternator and it was fine but we replaced it anyway. The issue went away until recently when the maintenance light came on again and seems the problem is worsening this time around.
View 5 RepliesThe low fuel indicator light has quit working on my 1999 Honda Civic. My wife ran out of gas one night and I want to fix it. The fuel gauge itself still works.
I removed the instrument cluster and found that the bulb does work.
I got to the top of the gas tank by swinging the back seat bottom cushion out of the way. I unplugged the three electrical connectors there and inspected the wiring. It all looked OK and I plugged things back together.
It will take some driving to get to a low-fuel condition and see if the light is somehow working now. If i does not, what next? Replace the fuel gauge sending unit in the gas tank? (It seems the switch that turns on the low-fuel indicator light is incorporated in that unit - is that right?)
I am desperately seeking info about my 1998 Honda Civic. My engine keeps quitting on me when I am either stopped at a stop light idling or the rpm's are really low. This seems to happen at random with no warning or check engine light. I keep my tank more than half full with gas so I don't believe this could be it. I have been to my mechanic and they said it could be a multitude of things wrong with it so it doesn't make sense to put money into the car if it won't necessarily fix it. I am desperate to figure something out so it can get fixed because I have to drive to work everyday and I'm sick of feeling anxious while driving all the time!
View 5 RepliesMy 1996 F150 has developed a strange vibration and nothing i have done seems to work. once it has shifted into drive it will shutter or vibrate under a light load. if i let off throttle or give it more throttle it stops. Seems to be most noticeable from 30-55 mph. I am thinking it is torque converter locking and unlocking but not sure. if it is torque converter does the converter lock and unlock electrically? if so where is the sensor on the bellhousing? I have looked around and cannot find anything as i was going to unplug it to see that was indeed the problem. its a 4rw70 tranny.
View 14 RepliesI haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?