Hyundai - Accent :: 2002 - Motor Runs But Rear Wiper Doesn't Move
Jan 23, 2011
During recent cold/ice spell, went to use my rear wiper and heard a pop (there was ice around the wiper base), then the wiper was flipping all over the place. Now I can hear the motor running but the wiper doesn't move. Plus, I can easily move it around by hand - no resistance. Do I have to replace the whole motor or is there possibly a gear or linkage between the motor and arm that stripped or popped away, so that can be fixed? 2002 Hyun Accent.
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I have this 2005 Camry since 2010 and never had any issue. Yesterday, I used wiper and the driver side moved slightly. The passenger side wiper blade went over it. So I checked and the driver side arm doesn't move at all but the passenger side is working fine. Winter is coming here and it'll be terrible without working wipers. Is it something I can tinker on?
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I recently had a problem with my car stalling when warm and not starting at all until cooler. This was the crank position sensor.
Now the car will not start without starting fluid. When starting fluid is used, the car will start and then run fine. Once you shut it off then try to start it, same thing. The fuel pump turns on when key is in on position. Holding pedal down to try and clear flood does nothing. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start until starting fluid is used.
So there is either not quite enough pressure at fuel rail, pump is not getting enough draw from battery, several other things could be suspect. Car is a 2003 Hyundai Accent. Battery tested borderline ok. It does the same thing with donor battery attached. I have a fuel gage but need an adaptor for it that I don't currently have to fit on this fuel rail. Stumped because the car runs beautifully once starting fluid gets it going.
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It used to be, if I remember correctly, that while turning the key on a cold start the oil pressure gauge needle would show pressure prior to the engine starting, now it takes longer to start and the needle doesn't move until after the motor has started. I had the O-ring kit replaced due to oil leakage, and I wonder if there is an issue with the system. N to watch as they deedo their cold start today...
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I am looking for step by step instructions with (pictures or video I know sounds corny if not oh well) on how to remove the wiper motor and crank arm. Need to get these taken care of, cause my wipers are stuck in the vertical position. They still work fine just need to be replaced. 2002 Grand Prix GT
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My 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
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I used my rear windshield wiper for the first time today. Noticed that the back windshield wiper doesn't clean off the back window close enough to the horizontal bar going across the Prius V hatch? I have about 2-3 inches of dew remaining above the back hatch bar, which 'happens' to be the exact height of my eyes (I'm 6').
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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My new to me 04 W12's rear sunshade does not work. The fuse is fine but when I push the button the sunshade doesn't move at all and it doesn't make any sounds. Also, I have had the left battery on a CTEK charger for a couple days and the battery is fully charged.
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2001 Dodge Caravan in which the rear wiper motor has failed. With the dash mounted rocker switch in the neutral position (Neither intermittent or a continuous wipe) I have three wires back at the motor. One would be the ground, one intermittent and I presume the other continuous. When the ignition switch is in the on position I have one wire that is hot and is not affected by what position the rocker switch is in.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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I'm having some sort of electrical malfunction on the back of my Mk4 Gti. The right rear tail light, license plate light and back windshield wiper doesn't work. I replaced the bulbs several times and they keep blowing.
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The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
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Have a 2002 malibu base 3.1 v6 that will not start. Battery charged, motor cranks, pump pumps 52psi at the rail, pink wire to injectors has 12v, fuses good, injectors click when jumped manually but not when starting. CPM is not grounding the six individual injectors to open nozzles. Bad CPM or is there another sensor I should look at?
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I recently parked my 2001 Accent for the past year and now the rear passenger side wheel won't move. I'm assuming it has seized. I am trying to open the drum for the rear wheel but am not really sure how. The wheel is removed so is the Bolt locking the drum in place. Should it now just pull off? I have a read that it is possible the emergency break is whats causing it to seize up. How does one manually removing the parking break lock ?
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'02 Hyundai Accent, 165K miles... My route to work is six miles of secondary roads and city streets (25-40 mph), followed by 16 miles of interstate highway (65-70 mph), then another nine miles of secondary roads and city streets.
I have noticed only recently (last couple of weeks) that when I get to the end of the interstate leg in either direction, as I wait for the light at the end of the ramp, my oil light will flicker (sometimes very faintly) if I leave my foot on the clutch. If I get into neutral and release the clutch, the light stays off. It will do that at two more stops in rapid succession, but by the time I am at the last traffic light or stop sign of the trip, it has stopped flickering regardless whether the clutch is in or out.
Oil is recently changed and at proper level.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 which has 126k miles on it. Overall the car runs well without any trouble. Recently I am noticing that if I suddenly slow down (like taking an exit from interstate or sudden traffic so that speed reduces to 30 mph from 60 mph or so), the front of the car starts shaking. On a very few occasion I have noticed that the check engine light comes up for a few seconds and disappears. At the same time car looses it's acceleration power. However, as soon as I slow down further (close to stop) everything starts working fine without any issue. What could be going wrong? The car is due for a timing belt replacement around 130k miles .
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with 116K miles on it. Recently it started to make a squealing noise when I start the car. The sound stays there for about 15-30 seconds and then goes away. Also, while the car is running and I start the AC for the first time the same noise sounds for another 15-30 seconds. I took the car to a local Midas store and they told me to replace two things. Alternator Serpentine Belt and Power Steering Pump V-Belt .Does the parts sound reasonable? I am really novice about car mechanism.
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NO RESPONCE TO REr wiprt control ?
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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