Hyundai - Accent :: 2002 - Oil Light Flickering
Nov 26, 2012
'02 Hyundai Accent, 165K miles... My route to work is six miles of secondary roads and city streets (25-40 mph), followed by 16 miles of interstate highway (65-70 mph), then another nine miles of secondary roads and city streets.
I have noticed only recently (last couple of weeks) that when I get to the end of the interstate leg in either direction, as I wait for the light at the end of the ramp, my oil light will flicker (sometimes very faintly) if I leave my foot on the clutch. If I get into neutral and release the clutch, the light stays off. It will do that at two more stops in rapid succession, but by the time I am at the last traffic light or stop sign of the trip, it has stopped flickering regardless whether the clutch is in or out.
Oil is recently changed and at proper level.
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My friend has a 2007 Hyundai Accent. I don't have any picture so I'll try to explain as best as I can. He has a problem with the braking light that is on the spoiler (it's an hatchback). All lights are very dim and flickering while the two bulbs on the right are solid. I believe the light assembly is dying and need to be replaced with new bulbs. The problem I have is I am not able to get to the assembly. I have the manual shop but it doesn't include instructions for the hatchback version.
There's a few black bolts/screws on the trunk lid. I removed those, but the spoiler doesn't want to move at all. I see 3 plastic trim that are beige. I believe there's more screws behind those. I don't know where the plastic holder are for the trim so I didn't try to remove them (I don't want to brake them!!). See the attached picture with the red circle for the black screws I am talking about.
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I have a Hyundai Accent 2002 which has 126k miles on it. Overall the car runs well without any trouble. Recently I am noticing that if I suddenly slow down (like taking an exit from interstate or sudden traffic so that speed reduces to 30 mph from 60 mph or so), the front of the car starts shaking. On a very few occasion I have noticed that the check engine light comes up for a few seconds and disappears. At the same time car looses it's acceleration power. However, as soon as I slow down further (close to stop) everything starts working fine without any issue. What could be going wrong? The car is due for a timing belt replacement around 130k miles .
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent with 116K miles on it. Recently it started to make a squealing noise when I start the car. The sound stays there for about 15-30 seconds and then goes away. Also, while the car is running and I start the AC for the first time the same noise sounds for another 15-30 seconds. I took the car to a local Midas store and they told me to replace two things. Alternator Serpentine Belt and Power Steering Pump V-Belt .Does the parts sound reasonable? I am really novice about car mechanism.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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So I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L. My car will drive 1-2 miles then it dies. After I let it sit for about 10 minutes it starts up again. I am getting to the end of what I know to do. I have replaced the ECU, Main relay, most of the sensors, Fuel pump, and fuel filter. When I bring it in to get the codes for it all I get is sensor faults even though I have replaced them. I am going to let it run for a little while and see if I can feel any heat from any relays under the dash. I like this car but not sure what else I can do.
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The problem started when my clutch fluid began leaking a couple of months ago. I first noticed that it would take an unusual amount of effort to shift into gear and, after checking, found the clutch fluid completely gone and I filled it up immediately. Three weeks later, the fluid was gone again, so I took it in to a reputable mechanic, who said I needed my slave cylinder replaced. A week after replacement, I start to notice that my car increasingly had trouble "catching" into gear (my engine was accelerating, but not moving very fast; soft clutch). I thought maybe something went wrong with the slave cylinder repair and took it back to the same place, but the news came back that I needed a new clutch.
At 143,000 miles on the original clutch, I wasn't surprised it was time for a new one. Immediately after picking up my car with the new clutch--and by immediate, I mean right after I pulled out of the mechanic's parking lot--I noticed my car was driving horribly. The engine was idling extremely rough and it felt gritty when pressing the gas pedal during acceleration. I took it back to my mechanic the next morning to explain the problem, but they treated me like I was an idiot, didn't detect anything wrong with my car, and clearly didn't know what I was talking about even though I personally showed them my steering was shaking pretty badly while idling.
A few more days of the rough idle/gritty acceleration and I went back, but they just suggested getting my fuel injection system cleaned. I personally checked to make sure that the wires in my car were connected properly, as well as making sure the hose connecting to the air filter was on there correctly. Today on a whim, I took my car to Autozone to have them check the computer, even though I don't have a check engine light on, and sure enough the only code read was P0302--Cylinder 2 misfire.
My question is, what is the most likely cause of the cylinder 2 misfire (given my car's very recent history) and most importantly, could the mechanic have caused the problem I am experiencing? How should I handle this situation with them from here? I will no longer be using their services after I get this problem sorted out, as I feel like my car did not receive the best service.
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The oil pressure light in my '02 Civic (~96K) has been randomly flickering on, for a second or less, at different speeds, road conditions, length of time in the car, etc. I have taken it to a good reputable shop and to a Honda service shop, and neither of them can pinpoint the problem. The good shop thought it might be a faulty sensor, but Honda shop guy said he's never replaced a sensor in his career. I've been driving ~400 miles per week since August. I had the alternator replaced at the good shop a couple months before the oil light started flickering. The Honda shop just said that the alternator was charging too high, but they didn't say if that was related to the oil light coming on. The battery was replaced in August, the oil level and pressure are good, and I got the oil changed two weeks ago when the good shop checked out the oil light problem. What is causing the oil light to come on??
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2002 Hyundai Accent with automatic transmission. This problem happens only if I floor the gas gas on the highway (trying to pass somebody or get out of the way in a hurry) or if I apply too much gas after coasting around a sharp turn. My car will then downshift with a jerk and an audible THUNK!. Right now I just avoid those situations and it shifts through all its gears fine, it only happens when I cause a sudden downshift. Transmission fluid level and color fine.
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During recent cold/ice spell, went to use my rear wiper and heard a pop (there was ice around the wiper base), then the wiper was flipping all over the place. Now I can hear the motor running but the wiper doesn't move. Plus, I can easily move it around by hand - no resistance. Do I have to replace the whole motor or is there possibly a gear or linkage between the motor and arm that stripped or popped away, so that can be fixed? 2002 Hyun Accent.
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I just bought a 2008 Hyundai Accent about 2 weeks ago. It has 65,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the check engine light came on. The dealership looked at it and said it was just a leak from the gas cap. So I purchased a new gas cap and the light is still on. I had the guys at AutoZone hook it up to their computer and they said the same thing. They also said that if the light is still on after putting on a new gas cap it could be the fuel injector or a vacuum leak. It has been less than 30 days that I have had this car. What is my next step here?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent. The brake light recently came on. I never use the emergency brake so I am not sure what it may mean. I wanted to know if any one know what this could be about before I take the car in to a mechanic.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Accent. My battery light and seatbelt light comes on when I'm driving at low speeds (below 20mph) and my A/C is on. FYI my A/C is an after-market unit. Do you think my A/C could have been connected incorrectly and is draining my battery?
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Last week during a cold spell in New Orleans the TPMS light went on in my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I checked all of the tires, 2 were slightly low and I added air. However, the light is still on and it has been several days.
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I have a 2012 hyundai accent. The check engine light came on. The code read knock sensor. Before I could get it into a shop, it went off. It didn't come back for 11 months. When it did come back, the same code was read. Again, it went off the following day before it could be looked at and hasn't been seen since. The shop says that even though there is a history code, it would be hard to diagnose since it isn't an active code. I noticed absolutely no difference in performance when the code was active. Both times it went on, the car was idling for several minutes with the ac on, and it came on as i accelerated onto a highway immediately afterwards. However, it has idled like that many other times without the light coming on as well.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent, stick shift. I replaced the rear brake shoes and the wheel cylinder on the driver's side and bled it after, and now my e-brake doesn't have any tension in the handle and the brake light doesn't come on when you pull it up. The brake does set enough, when you pull the handle up, to stop the car from moving, but I think on a steep incline it would probably roll. How to fix it?
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My trunk light on the cluster gauge will not turn off. I removed the trunk light bulb so it wouldn't drain the battery but over the span of about a month the battery gets low enough not to start, so I'm assuming its keeping something else on in addition to the light. I only drive about 150 miles a month so it doesn't have much time to recharge even if it is a small draw. I disconnected the sensor in the trunk but the light is still on, The odd thing is that if I apply high G's from breaking or accelerating quickly, the light will turn off till I stop accelerating/decelerating (normal driving does not effect it). I'm thinking its probably a short from an aftermarket remote start/security system that was removed. I do not use the factory alarm so I do not care about the trunk sensor being disabled but I cant seem to figure out where to disconnect it from (pulling the fuse did nothing)and I assume I need to find the trunk/hatch pin wire that it is referring to. Or am I going about this all wrong?
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i have a 2002 passat b5.5 and i have been having this problem every time i use one of my turning signals it sometimes turns on..........but quickly shuts off...and then sometimes it doesn't turn on at all..
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I have an automatic (ugh) 2002 Jetta 1.8T that is displaying some fun stuff. My kneejerk reaction is that the ECU is croaking but wanted to run it by some people with more experience/smarts.
Here's the deal. I don't get any codes, ever. Sometimes, when I turn the ignition to on (Before starting) all of my warning lights are dim and will flicker, and the gear indicator at the bottom of the cluster rapidly switches between each gear. If I start the car like this, I can hear the shift lock randomly engaging and disengaging. If I actually try to drive, it'll shift hard into reverse, shift normally into drive, and then drive in limp mode. I only drove this way three times before figuring out the next bit. Each time, either the traction control or air bag warning lights came on and stayed on.
I've noticed that if I turn the ignition to "on" and it's acting up, all I have to do is leave it on for a few seconds, turn the ignition back off, and turn it back on; sometimes it'll take 2-3 tries but it always seems to work. Then the warning lights come on bright and steady, the car starts like normal, and drives great.
So, is it the ECU? Is it demons?
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Today I had to boost my car three times, once boosted, I was loosing power, my lights dimmed, and my rev-ometer had stopped working.
My father said it would be a connector cable, the battery was very corroded. I just had my cat-converter replaced wednesday. today is the first time i've had this issue, i've had the car for just over a month now.
I'm really hoping its not my alternator. Because that would suck.
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So yesterday we removed the radio from the car to install an after market one, after realising the after market radio had different cable inputs we reinstalled the original radio that was in there. But now the radio won't turn on, the clock doesn't work and the interior light isn't working. What the issue could be?
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