Hyundai - Excel :: 1994 Loses Power And Stumbles Uphill Going Forward Only
Jun 18, 2014
I am having problems with my 1994 hyundai excel 5spd man. trans...when i drive the car it seems fine but if i go up a hill it stumbles and loses power very quickly and cant make it up the hill. It feels like the motor starts jerking and stumbling but if i put it in reverse and reverse up the same hill it has tons of power and doesn't run rough.....the car hasn't been driven much in the last 6 months or so and the fuel gauge says 3/4 full...the motor also idles good but takes a long time to warm up (like 20 mins or so even when driving it around in 75-80F weather).
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Car has 133k miles...everything on it is pretty much new (mainly from previous owner). Everything in the fuel system and ignition is new. New sensors all over the place. New ECM. All fluids clean. Earlier today I charged my A/C, it went well (blows ice cold)...sat for a while idling, idled fine. Drove around with the a/c on and noticed the transmission was shifting odd. It would keep upshifting and downshifting I think between 3rd and 4th gear. Also starting doing this with the air off as well. After running a few more errands, the transmission seemed like it wouldn't shift as early as it did previously.
Upon coming home the last time, upon acceleration I began hearing a slapping/tapping sound and the car started losing power. If I took my foot off the gas the sound went away. Well it almost died on me making the last turn into my driveway and I parked it. Shut it off, checked everything over. Oil and trans fluid is good as well as everything else, it didn't overheat or anything. It seems to idle a bit low now, and if I gave it any throttle while parked the unfamiliar sound returned.
I asked the previous owner and he said he might have put the wrong transmission fluid in when he did the fluid/filter change months ago. He says he used DEX or the "multi vehicle import" fluid instead of the ATF +4 that it requires. Coincidentally enough, I had just purchased several quarts today to start running the possibly wrong fluid out to get the right stuff in. What else I should check, hoping the engine isn't toast. Here's a video of the sound, you can really hear it when I move my phone over the exhaust manifold heat shield : [URL] .....
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My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
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93 Hyundai Excel 1.5L, 130k miles. Oil pan gasket leaking like crazy, took pan off and cleaned everything up real nice in preparation for new gasket.
Looked in the bottom of pan and noticed this thing sitting in it (the sleeve looking thing, not the nickel) it isn't a magnet, and looking up into the bottom end of my engine I couldn't see anything that looked like it. Here's a pic: [URL] .....
The inside is smooth, no threads or anything. It is metal.
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My first car was a 1986 Hyundai Excel. I spent about as much time fixing it as driving it, but it taught me how to work on cars, which has saved me a lot of money over the years. It had some quirks. When I turned on the headlights, the idle would go up and down. When I looked at the carburetor, I could even see the throttle open and close. It had one of those complicated feedback carburetors that I don't really understand. My question is about the transmission. It was a five-speed, and the clutch never slipped. When I got the car, the speed limit was 55. At that speed the engine would be somewhere over 3,000 RPM (I forget exactly).
Then a couple of years later the speed limit went up to 70, and at that speed the engine ran at 4,000 RPM. The strange thing is that the engine speed was the same in 4th and 5th. I have a book about cars that I got years ago, and it mentions something called a "fifth gear" that isn't an overdrive but "acts like an overdrive." What this means, but it seems to be what my Hyundai had. I found no difference in engine speed or performance. If I had to downshift to 4th to climb a hill, I'd immediately have to downshift to 3rd, because 4th made no difference. What that fifth gear was for? I also wouldn't mind knowing why the throttle opened and closed when the lights were on.
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Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
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My car is a 93 Hyundai Excel with the automatic transmission. The donor car was a 94 Excel with a manual transmission. This instrument cluster had the rare tach so that is why it was to go in mine. Everything I have read on the Hyundai forums said it is 100% plug and play regardless of year or transmission. The upgraded instrument cluster worked in the donor car, but in mine nothing works. Fuel gauge goes to full but that's about it (my tank is almost empty). What would cause this? I've checked the printed circuit board, fuses, everything.
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My '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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I've got an '08 Hyundai Accent, and the radio just loses power altogether sometimes. At first I thought it was a fuse, but then it came back on after a while. I realize it's likely a bad connection, but where specifically to look for this connection before I take the dash apart?
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My wife has a 2002 Hyundai Elantra (5-speed manual) with about 185,000 miles on it, which has developed an issue within the last 2 months. The car acts like it is shut off for a split second - tachometer drops suddenly, check engine light flashes very briefly and you lurch a little bit as you lose power, but then after maybe a second, it is back to normal. This has happened while accelerating, cruising down the highway, and idling at a stop sign. The car hasn't actually killed while idling, but is close.
Had it in to a mechanic, and they checked for error codes but found none, and of course it didn't happen while the mechanic had it. On a recent 2 hour trip, it happened maybe 50 times? But hasn't happened for the last week. I should mention that we had the exhaust manifold/front catalytic converter replaced about 3 months ago, as well as a camshaft sensor (those had error codes before we changed them). We've done the recommended maintenance over the years, but are due for another plug/wire replacement (could this be the issue?).
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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
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Ole girl finally let me down, or I let it down at 224,000mi. Started just fine one early cold morning and in about 30 seconds started stumbling and down for the count she went. Acts like it wants to run but will only stumble.
Checked inertia switch (ok) and all vacuum lines/caps appear to be fine. I was kind of due for new set of plugs/wires and a fuel filter. Replaced all didn't see any problems with the old when pulling. She will run for a few seconds, but stumbles and not smooth while running. Checked fuel pressure KOEO 40psi steady. I can hear fuel pump charge system per as usual.
Seeing as it is super cab checked for chafing on wiring to fuel pump under cab. Looks fine. I've heard tell could be alternator, which seems odd to me. Wondering if it would be worth pulling it off and taking it in for a bench test? Maybe I missed something. I know the intake gasket is suspect.
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I have a 1994 C-1500 4.3L with a 4L60E transmission. After driving for 30-40 minutes it loses 1st gear and you have to manually shift between gears. R, 2, D and OD can be manually selected but there is no automatic up or down shifting. There isn't any gear slipping prior to this. After sitting for 25-30 minutes everything works fine. I have noticed that sometimes before the problem occurs that if i manually select 1st gear it will stay in 1st & sometimes it will automatically shift to 2nd even though the gear selector is in 1st. Also it usually shifts into D at about 30 mph but sometimes it stays in 2nd until I manually shift down to 2nd and back up to D. It isn't giving any relevant codes (use jumper & flash codes). I'm thinking possibly faulty solenoid(s), but not sure.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 130000+ mi on it. The current engine has 96000+ mi; the original was replaced because the previous owner allowed it to overheat, blew a gasket, and apparently warped the engine itself.
I have owned this car for about 6 weeks now. The car was driven roughly 160 mi from where it was purchased to my residence; no trouble on that trip. However, within the first few weeks of owning it, the car started making a squealing noise when I turned the steering wheel. I took the car to a mechanic and had the belts adjusted. This eliminated the squealing, but I was also told that the CV boot needed to be replaced (they asked if I had been hearing a clicking noise when turning, which I had but had thought nothing of), so I also had that repair done. Problem solved. Car seemed to be running fine.
Okay, on to the current problem. Something else I had started to notice, before I had the belts adjusted, was that it seemed to hesitate a little when going up hills, and sometimes when accelerating. It was a small thing, and I attributed it to my driving style (which probably isn't the best) and the fact that my area is very hilly and the car might be having a harder time with that. Well, this problem has gotten worse; I can definitely feel the car jerking, especially when accelerating (very noticeable when going uphill). The problem also seems to be worse at lower speeds, but I'm not entirely sure that I've nailed that down.
One thing I noticed is that it seemed to become much more noticeable after the last time I gassed up the car. It seems like it's getting worse as the fuel is used up, but that's probably just a consequence of using up fuel as I drive and I'm just looking for connections where there aren't any.
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My Santa Fe has roughly 120,000 miles on it (v6, fancy version with the sun roof). Today, I got in to go to a meeting. Noticed the car was shimmying and having trouble moving forward. Then noticed my check engine light was on. Managed to drive 5 miles to the meeting, and an hour later, the light and the shimmying were gone. What's going on? (Or even wildly speculative guesses?) ...
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I purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
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I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX AT. Recently, while I am stopped at a Stop Sign or a Red Light, the car will suddenly start moving forward causing me to apply more pressure to the brakes. It also feels that the brake pedal is traveling a lot further now.
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My parents have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata. About a month ago my mom noticed that when she starts to brake, the car stops fine but then it stops again almost, with a loud thunk. The best way to describe it is that you press down the brake, the car stops, then a few seconds later the car feels like it is lunging forward and stopping again with a sudden thump. (Although I don't think it really actually moves at all).
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Driving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
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Have any of you had your 6.7 'stumble' on take off while pulling a heavy load? This is the third trip mine had done it in a row. When starting from a dead stop, the truck almost goes dead for just a second, then picks up and runs normally. No codes, no CEL. Has only done it once while unloaded. Starting to bother me while pulling into traffic. ALSO, I have the high idle hooked up and the truck does the same thing when switching on the high idle. It bogs down momentarily then runs as it should. Filters have 6k on them. No mods to the truck as far as engine and electronics are concerned. My dealer is about 65 miles away and would need to have 5er in tow to replicate. It feels as if it starving for fuel for a split second. Other than this and my backup camera that I'm still waiting on, this truck has been flawless. I know it needs to go to dealer, but will be such a hassle to duplicate without camper.
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