Hyundai - Excel :: 1993 - Unexpected Loss Of Power / Transmission Oddity / Unfamiliar Sounds
Jun 22, 2015
Car has 133k miles...everything on it is pretty much new (mainly from previous owner). Everything in the fuel system and ignition is new. New sensors all over the place. New ECM. All fluids clean. Earlier today I charged my A/C, it went well (blows ice cold)...sat for a while idling, idled fine. Drove around with the a/c on and noticed the transmission was shifting odd. It would keep upshifting and downshifting I think between 3rd and 4th gear. Also starting doing this with the air off as well. After running a few more errands, the transmission seemed like it wouldn't shift as early as it did previously.
Upon coming home the last time, upon acceleration I began hearing a slapping/tapping sound and the car started losing power. If I took my foot off the gas the sound went away. Well it almost died on me making the last turn into my driveway and I parked it. Shut it off, checked everything over. Oil and trans fluid is good as well as everything else, it didn't overheat or anything. It seems to idle a bit low now, and if I gave it any throttle while parked the unfamiliar sound returned.
I asked the previous owner and he said he might have put the wrong transmission fluid in when he did the fluid/filter change months ago. He says he used DEX or the "multi vehicle import" fluid instead of the ATF +4 that it requires. Coincidentally enough, I had just purchased several quarts today to start running the possibly wrong fluid out to get the right stuff in. What else I should check, hoping the engine isn't toast. Here's a video of the sound, you can really hear it when I move my phone over the exhaust manifold heat shield : [URL] .....
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93 Hyundai Excel 1.5L, 130k miles. Oil pan gasket leaking like crazy, took pan off and cleaned everything up real nice in preparation for new gasket.
Looked in the bottom of pan and noticed this thing sitting in it (the sleeve looking thing, not the nickel) it isn't a magnet, and looking up into the bottom end of my engine I couldn't see anything that looked like it. Here's a pic: [URL] .....
The inside is smooth, no threads or anything. It is metal.
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Just acquired this car with 130k. The previous owner owned this car all throughout college and dumped an obscene amount of money into it for what it is. I have a stack of receipts and work orders several inches high that came with the car, with every single oil change nut and bolt this guy bought for it. It was sitting in his driveway for several months because couldn't get the thing running...it just stopped out of nowhere. He decided to part with it since he is working full time and has a wife and child to support.
The work that has been done from previous owner. All of this has been done in the past 2-4 years:
Fuel system: gas tank drained and cleaned out, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new injectors.Ignition: distributor, distributor cap & rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires. Coil is still original.Electrical: O2 sensor, ECM coolant temperature sensor, ECM (mom and pop shop replaced it with a junkyard unit from a different car, not 100% compatible with a 93 Excel).Engine: cylinder head rebuild, timing belt and components replaced.Misc: thermostat, coolant hoses, PCV valve, all vacuum hoses replaced, brand new exhaust from the converter back, converter has been hollowed out, new struts/shocks, tons of front end work, tires, MAF cleaned with appropriate cleaner, etc.
Here's what I have done:I replaced the throttle position sensor, replaced the air filter (it had a K&N that did not fit right), replaced the idle control servo, and also replaced the ECM with the correct one. Also replaced fuel filter, all fusible links, and the relay box for the fuel system. I've tested the TPS circuit extensively and it checks out both on the sensor side and ECM side. Also there is a TSB for a bad ground which would cause the TPS and motor position sensor circuits to mess up, but I have already checked them and they were fine.
Previous owner replaced a ton of parts, I can get the car to start and idle without much incident but as soon as you give it any throttle it gurgles pops and dies.
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My car is a 93 Hyundai Excel with the automatic transmission. The donor car was a 94 Excel with a manual transmission. This instrument cluster had the rare tach so that is why it was to go in mine. Everything I have read on the Hyundai forums said it is 100% plug and play regardless of year or transmission. The upgraded instrument cluster worked in the donor car, but in mine nothing works. Fuel gauge goes to full but that's about it (my tank is almost empty). What would cause this? I've checked the printed circuit board, fuses, everything.
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I am having problems with my 1994 hyundai excel 5spd man. trans...when i drive the car it seems fine but if i go up a hill it stumbles and loses power very quickly and cant make it up the hill. It feels like the motor starts jerking and stumbling but if i put it in reverse and reverse up the same hill it has tons of power and doesn't run rough.....the car hasn't been driven much in the last 6 months or so and the fuel gauge says 3/4 full...the motor also idles good but takes a long time to warm up (like 20 mins or so even when driving it around in 75-80F weather).
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My first car was a 1986 Hyundai Excel. I spent about as much time fixing it as driving it, but it taught me how to work on cars, which has saved me a lot of money over the years. It had some quirks. When I turned on the headlights, the idle would go up and down. When I looked at the carburetor, I could even see the throttle open and close. It had one of those complicated feedback carburetors that I don't really understand. My question is about the transmission. It was a five-speed, and the clutch never slipped. When I got the car, the speed limit was 55. At that speed the engine would be somewhere over 3,000 RPM (I forget exactly).
Then a couple of years later the speed limit went up to 70, and at that speed the engine ran at 4,000 RPM. The strange thing is that the engine speed was the same in 4th and 5th. I have a book about cars that I got years ago, and it mentions something called a "fifth gear" that isn't an overdrive but "acts like an overdrive." What this means, but it seems to be what my Hyundai had. I found no difference in engine speed or performance. If I had to downshift to 4th to climb a hill, I'd immediately have to downshift to 3rd, because 4th made no difference. What that fifth gear was for? I also wouldn't mind knowing why the throttle opened and closed when the lights were on.
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Recently while driving my 93 Toyota Pickup 22RE, I experienced a loss of power. It is equipped with a 5 speed manual transmission and a 22RE engine. The engine has about 165K on it. I am aware that it could be a timing chain, or additionally, there is a sensor in the air intake that I have heard could be the problem. Also, if it is a timing chain, what are the chances of engine damage?
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My latest car, 93 Honda Accord, has been my most unreliable car so far but I bought it earlier this year for $800 and it has <75,000 miles on it so I keep fixing it. Last night, after filling up about 30 miles before, I noticed the RPM's shoot down to nothing but then immediately go right back up again. I drove for a couple more miles on the freeway and then it happened again but the RPM did not return to its previous level. Erma (the car) lost power and gradually I steered it off the road as it slowed down. I waited awhile and kept trying to start it up. She sounded peppy (no clicking, squealing or straining) and the lights stayed on but it just wouldn't start. Eventually she started again, after about 15 minutes, and drove home with no problems. I live 45 minutes outside of town (where I work and go to graduate school - poor student card) so I am hoping for some guidance for things to try to make sure it doesnt strand me again, especially more permanently. Seems electrical? I recently, in the last 8 months, replaced the starter and the electric ignition assembly, as well as the brake master cylinder.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GL. So tonight after work when getting into car to go home I noticed my CEL came on, also as I was driving at low speeds/rpm I noticed the car really sounded like it has a diesel engine in it. At higher speeds on the highway I noticed it has some loss of power and the diesel sound went away. CEL stayed on.
The CEL light I am pretty sure is the OCV which I havent replaced yet. So my question is: Can the OCV cause the car to sound like a diesel and have loss of power is that caused by something else?
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I’m having an issue with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra cutting off, and what to check for next. Basically I have a very intermittent issue where the car seems to lose electrical power for a split second (or possibly total loss of gas – as in, it doesn’t seem to be misfiring, just seems to totally lose all power). If it happens when I first start the car up, the car will start up for a second and then cut off. It also happens randomly when driving at any speed, and when it happens while driving, it just goes out for a split second, and then cuts back on and I can keep driving, so the RPMs Rev up for a second as a result when it kicks back on, but then goes back to normal. But it is completely intermittent, as in, some days it will not do it at all on my 30-min drive to work. I even went a whole week without it happening. But this week it has come back. Some days it will do it 3 times, some days 20 times. Some days its hard to get my car started, because it keeps cutting off when I start it. But so far after I try around 5-10 times it will start up and keep going. Also, this may indicate nothing, but when it goes out for that split second, I can hear a click, or electrical sounding click coming from the dash/instrument panel area. Which is what makes it seem electrical in nature, but I could be wrong, could be a spark/gas thing.
This has been happening it seems no matter what the weather is outside (its been anywhere from the 20s to 60s here in the last few weeks) and it doesn’t seem to matter if the car is warmed up or not. Also, so far the check engine light has not come on, so it makes me think it might not be a sensor, since those will usually trigger the light when they start going bad. Also, when the car is running, it runs perfect. Idles perfect, drives perfect, no misfires, no hesitation, etc. The ONLY problem is it cutting out. Also, it doesn’t seem to matter if the fuel tank is full or half empty. I had read in one place that if the vapor recovery charcoal canister gets full of gas, it will vent liquid fuel instead of vapor, which can result in car cutting off or running rough, but this usually only happens when fuel tank is full. So I suppose it could be this, but I doubt it.The car has 180k miles. Iridium plugs have 60k on them. Wires have 60k on them. Original fuel pump and fuel filter. I wouldn’t think it would be the filter since when it runs it runs perfect. I guess could possibly be the pump having an intermittent issue. Trying to avoid replacing that for now unless I knew it was the problem.
What I’ve done so far:
•I made sure the battery cables are tight and clean at the connection
•I checked as many grounds as I could find, they all seem good
•Alternator puts out a perfect amount of voltage
•I swapped the ECU main relay and fuse with another relay and fuse in the fuse box that were identical
•I swapped the Fuel Pump relay with an identical one in the box
•I replaced the Crankshaft position sensor
•I cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor (though it looked spotless)
•I looked around for any vacuum hoses that were disconnected. Didn’t find any
•I’ve tried resetting the ECU (unplug battery for a while) and I thought that fixed it at first, but then it came back a few days later. And now resetting ECU seems to have no effect.
Some possibilities of what it could be:
•Fuel pump intermittent issue?
•Camshaft position sensor?
•ECU problem?
•Catalytic convertor going bad?
•Some other sensor going bad?
•Possibly the vapor recovery charcoal canister is full of fuel as described above
•ignition coils – but I doubt it since you’d usually get a misfire/engine light when those go bad (from experience)
•Fuel pressure regulator – but I doubt it, based on the symptoms. Seems like I’d have other symptoms.
I’m not convinced of any of these above, and some of them I wouldn’t know how to check (like for a bad ECU). What it might be? Getting nervous driving 75mph on the interstate with someone behind me and the car cutting out. Luckily so far it doesn’t cut completely off when I’m up to speed with someone behind me!
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I am not a mechanic by any means, but have picked up a lot of stuff over the years. I drive a 2003 Hyundai Sonata with a 4 cylinder engine. Several days ago while going up a steep hill I lost power and my check engine light came on. This has happened before when my coil went bad so I figured it would be a breeze fixing it. I limped it home and ran the code. Sure enough it came back as cylinder 1 misfire. This vehicle uses 2 coils so I swapped them to try and get the problem to follow, but it did not. I have tried a new spark plug, new wires, and swapped injectors without success. There is still no activity on cylinder 1.
I ran a compression test. I get about 60 PSI on cylinder 1 and between 180-210 on 2-4. This would point to head gasket, so I am told. I do burn about a quart of oil every 500-1000 miles, but I do not seem to have any coolant leaking issues. I have not noticed any smoke from the tailpipe. The spark plugs were generally good looking, except for number 3 which had a hard white substance all over the electrode. There does not appear to be any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. This seems strange to me as everything I have read said that one of those would happen.
Is there anything else I should look into or is my engine toast?
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I recently picked up a 93 ranger sport 4x4 with 2.3L engine and 5spd.. Has run fine for the first 2 weeks of ownership but yesterday morning, it started cutting out on the highway. When I say cutting it is like all loss of power for a brief instant and then it right back without even losing any speed, I could watch tach drop from 2500 to 2k and then right back to 2500 again..
Did it sporadically all the way home about 10 miles sometimes once in a mile other times 6-7 times in a mile. Truck has 126k on it, and within last 26k miles PO replaced timing belt, coil packs, plugs, wires, ICM, and just before i picked it up from him a new EGR and fuel filter.
No check engine light
Fast forward to this AM
Wouldn't start at all, i can hear fuel pump spinning and she cranks and cranks but no start up.... played with multiple things including the ICM but found 2 of 3 heads rounded off so i cant remove it until i can get it in to my garage and dremel those suckers off..
Went and bought a replacement ICM figured i could plug it in run a ground from the bottom left hand bolt hole so i could get it fired up and in to my garage.. plugged the new one in grounded it and it still wouldn't start...
So I decided to replug the original ICM back in and grab my spark plug tester, remove number 3 plug wire on passengers side insert the tester and have my wife crank it over and wonder of wonder it fires up...
shut it down remove the tester and have her start it up again and it fires right back up so i let it warm up for 15 minutes.. grab my autoxray.. shut it down hook up the scan tool and run the KOEO scan.. gives me a passed 111 code... OK lets start it back up and run the KOER test.. wont start back up.. reinstall the spark plug tester to #3 wire and NOW it has no spark..
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I have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
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My girl friends car is doing something interesting, well it started off the car died while she was driving home from work, so I towed it with my truck home, the alternator had went bad so i changed that, but no here is where the problem comes in that i cant figure out, the car will start and run for about 3 miles than it will die in and out, loose power but not kill the engine and the check engine light flashes, and now the radio does not work at all (at idle or running) and the head lights are dim.i tested the battery, it was with in ranges for cold starting, output while the car is on and a few other thing, i re checked my belts and they are all tight and in the correct alignment ...
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Occasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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My husband and I noticed that my Hyundai Elantra (2007) sounded rough when running over 60mph. The car has 61,000 miles on it and is due for an oil change, a radiator flush, and a fuel filter replacement. My manual says that the platinum coated (versus iridium coated) spark plugs would need to be replaced at 60K miles. I was told that the car would run rough at lower speeds if it was the spark plugs.
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I have a 2006 Chryler Town & Country with the 3.8L engine. The car has 170K miles on it and I change the fluids/filters as recommended. I have never changed the plugs and wires though, or the fuel filter. The car starts and idles normally, and no issues driving in-town or on the highway.
Recently I have noticed a loss of power when I give it more gas and the transmission downshifts. The engine revs up but the power doesn't really increase and it makes a low growling kind of sound. The engine also starts to hesitate at around 3000 RPM if I rev it in neutral. I am thinking it could be the plugs/wires, fuel filter or air filter (even though the air filter is less was installed at 163K miles.
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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Occasionally my 2013 tdi has weird transmission issues. Usually it is from a start from a stop sign, typically when I am driving uphill. What happens is I step on the gas and it takes maybe 3-5 full seconds to respond and actually start moving. It is a total loss of power. What could be happening? I took it to the dealer and they said they "tuned the transmission" or something that I don't really buy because I still have the issue occasionally. I had this issue from day one and now have about 25k miles on the car.
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Buick Regal 2000... Could it possibly be a leaf hitting ventilation fan? Turn the fan off to test. Looking for someone who knows something about cars to listen under the hood and try to pinpoint the source.
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