Jeep - Liberty :: 2005 - Check Engine Light On / Rough Start When Cold
Mar 24, 2014
I have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
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I got a new-to-me Jeep Liberty 2005 in February. The check engine light came on after a few weeks. Our mechanic replaced the catalytic converter twice. After the second replacement it went out after we drove for a while, but after the second one it never went out. We are now using high-test gas (to prevent carbon buildup?), but that hasn't worked either. I need to pass the emission test soon.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Liberty 2.8 Diesel. It has about 57000 miles on it and when I took it to be inspected, a Code PO 299 came up. The dealer has done quite a bit of work to it and cannot find a way to get this light to stay off. When something is done, it goes off until it is driven, then it comes on again. So far the jeep runs great, but it's hard to pass inspection unless the light goes out.
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I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 129K. The car overheated and resulted in changing the head gasket and piston rings. Now the car will not start with all six spark plugs installed. It will only start and run for a short period time with three spark plugs on the driver side installed.
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Okay, so I've been hearing this strange sloshing noise in my Jeep Liberty 2005. It happens when I start off from a stop and usually around 15mph. It seems to be coming from the front of the vehicle (engine). And I'm not the only one that has heard it so I'm not crazy.
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My engine seems to misfire when I first start out and then runs smoothly. The first mechanic got a random misfire from the diagnostic and replaced all the cylinder coils which worked for about a week. The second mechanic ran a diagnostic which said random misfire and he said it was a loose spark plug. This worked for 4 days then it started misfiring again. There's no violent shaking or backfiring. I don't know much about cars but it seems odd that it doesn't keep misfiring. It's a 2006 jeep Liberty with 87,000 miles...
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Over the past month or so I've noticed that my 2005 Jeep Liberty Limited has started to make a creaking noise when it's a little off balance, such as driving down and uneven drive-way. I believe it's coming from the back?
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I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It recently started making a noise that I think is most accurately described as a groan/squeal. It only happens at low speed, < 20MPH, and happens more often the lower the speed. It also seems more likely to happen when the vehicle is turning. I haven't noticed any other problems with the car. The brakes and serpentine belt were recently replaced.
The brakes were replaced because they were starting to get old, looked corroded, and were starting to squeal when braking. The serpentine belt was replaced because it had a crack in it and was under warranty after being replaced for the same reason only 10 months ago. I don't believe that the noise is related to the brakes as the noise has occurred many times when the brakes were not being applied and it does not appear to occur any more or less frequently when they are applied
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ODB2 Code: P0300 - Multiple Miss-fire
I have an issue with my Jeep Liberty. It started idling rough with no error codes. about a week later it through the Multiple misfire code. I started by replacing the spark plugs. The old ones were from 20K miles ago and still looked good. Replaced them anyway. I still had the code. I put K44 fuel injector cleaner into the tank and drove it home (2 miles.) The next morning I started it and went in side because I had forgotten something. I came out to extremely thick black smoke. It went away after about 2 minutes, the computer code cleared, and the engine idled perfectly. About 2000 miles later the car is once again idling poorly. I added K44 again and for that tank of gas it ran fine, no code. Once new gas was added it threw the same error code and idles very roughly.
So here are some basic info pieces:
1. 8 tanks of gas from 8 different locations.
2. Adding K44 has shown a direct improvement both times, but more significant the 1st time.
3. New spark plugs
4. New coil packs
5. 2005 Jeep Liberty - 3.7L V6 at 99,872 miles
6. Hopefully unrelated is that the car has a small radiator fluid leak I haven't found. It requires 1/2 gallon every 2K miles or so.
There is no knocking sound, it just sounds like there isn't enough gas. Car responds fine to accelerator. Above 10mph car seems to drive smoothly.
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My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
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So recently i knowingly purchased a car with a blown head gasket. Got it fixed at the mechanics and also changed the timing belt / serviced the car. The car also had intermittent check engine light however the mechanic said it was just the O2 sensor or something and it wasn't worth fixing ($300 to replace it).
Now the car (automatic subaru liberty) drove fine for the last two weeks but my brother took it out to go to the snow and on the return trip the car starting to emit loud clunking sounds from the engine, the brake system warning light also came on and power was reduced and my brother pulled over, and checked it out. The car starts, but its only limited to around 15km even when flooring the car. The car free revs in neutral but emits a cracking sound.
Do you think the transmission shit itself? On cold mornings the car would take about 1-2 seconds to change engage drive / reverse.
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I have a Jeep Liberty 2002 Sports. When it is cold and the car has been sitting for a while, when I start the car, the steering wheel is locked or hard to move. I have not tried to force it. But it will move if I rev the engine to a certain point. Once I rev the engine I can move the steering wheel again. I have left the car to warm up before revving the engine, but this does not work with the steering, I have to rev the engine in order to "unlocked" the wheel.
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we have a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It has about 150000 miles and every few days it makes a sound like a guitar string breaking. sometimes, while we are driving, other times as we wait on a red light and sometimes after the car is turned off. What could be causing this?
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When I turned on my 2005 Passat V6 this morning, it idled very rough and the check engine light came on. Kind of sounded like a misfire. After about a minute or so, the engine ran as it always has....normal. Smooth as ever. Well I had it scanned at AZ and they said it was in fact a misfire from two of the cylinders. So then I called my local VW service department and the guy there gave me a no nonsense over the phone diagnosis, he told me that he owns a V6 Passat and he encountered the same issue on several occasions when the outside temperature drops precipitously over night. He stated that the misfire is due to condensation in the ignition/coil area. He stated that it is in fact a very common problem and that I would be fine and that the light would go away on it's own. The car is running fine. Should I really worry?
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I have a 04 3.7L V6 Jeep Liberty with about 114K miles on it. It started happening recently that when I turn the key nothing happens. I have to put my foot on the brake, shift thru the gears, back to Park, take my foot off the brake, and then the car will start. Not quite sure where to start...
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Rough start like some thing missing, check engine light came on, shut off car checked my oil, ok, restart runs smooth but check engine light stays on, went to dealer 8 mile drive, car ran fine ????
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The car doesn't start, makes a click thats it. When I had it towed to my place, I noticed oil was leaking from the bottom. My tow truck guy thinks the motor's completey blown, I'm hoping it's just the starter and the oil gasket. Battery is fine, I am going to check for error codes in the morning. The car has 157,000 miles and has never been in an accident. The original owner told me the car just stopped on them. What to look for to see if the motor's completely blown or if it's something less serious.
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2003 Jeep Liberty Sport, 156 K miles, Check engine light has been on for months now. First occurrence was when driving, and car started to knock as though I was shooting 50 cal machine guns. Stopped vehicle, shut off, and upon restart, engine ran smooth. Now, almost every time after engine has been running a while, and I am going on a down slope, the check engine light starts to blink, and engine starts to miss. Took to my mechanic, and so far, I have been told and have replaced, Fuel pump, Spark plugs, coils, and wires, cam sensor. Latest and most recent with promise that this has to be it, I replaced engine computer.
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I drive a 2005 Jeep Liberty with about 96,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, the Jeep had some trouble starting. It would crank and turn over and then sputter out. I tried it again and it did the same thing. After letting it sit for a couple minutes, it started and ran fine. No warning lights or anything on the dashboard and nothing that seemed unusual. A couple days later, my wife noticed a small pool of pink fluid on the floor of the garage where my Jeep parks.
So I took the Jeep in to get it looked at. They said there was a leak in the coolant line as well as the pinion system, both of which they repaired. Since then, the Jeep has done this 3 more times, usually from a warm start. If it's been sitting for a few hours, it starts without a problem. But if I'm running errands, then the third time I try to start it, it will fail until I let it sit for a couple minutes. Then it will finally start up. What it could be before I take it back to the mechanic?
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Yesterday my car had a rough start (lasted all of 5 seconds) and it threw the check engine light on. Now other symptoms. It was a rough start, almost like a misfire then it idle fined, and drove my 60 mi commute home without issue. I had fine acceleration, gas mileage idle etc.
I got home and turned it off for 10 min and it then started normally and ran fine again. I'm thinking it was just a random miss that threw on the light, but I'll take it to Advance to get the code later today.
I replaced the plugs about a year ago with cheap-o plugs so it may be time for a replacement again. I thought maybe an o2 sensor but there wasn't a drop in mpg, at least anything noticeable.
And its been a few days since I've gotten gas so I'm doubting just a gas cap issue... The CEL did NOT flash, only solid the whole time.
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I have an interlock installed in my 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport. I've been having electrical problems in it ever since it was installed. Prior to it being installed the jeep wasn't mine, it was my grandfathers, and he says it really wasn't driven for a while consistently but it didn't have any electrical problems before the interlock was put in. I'm not sure if this is accurate or not because I'd never driven it prior to the installation. Either way, now I believe I have a short in the electrical somewhere in the system. I'm not sure how to proceed, other then to check the fuses. The battery IS currently dead, but it wasn't.
I was able to start the car and get it down the road, hoping the alternator would charge the battery (the lights were out, none came back on) After a little bit of driving down the road I drove back into my driveway because I was scared to drive without headlights, and shut the car off. It hasn't started back up and now none of the lights or anything are working at all. We've tried jump starting the car, thinking maybe the battery was dead or the alternator went out, but the cables just started smoking and getting really hot. I really need to know how to proceed to find this short, will I have to look at all the wires in the car? Or is it possible to just use the fuse box? My knowledge of electric in a car is very limited, though I do know the basic mechanics.
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