Jeep - Wrangler :: 1999 - Hard To Put In First Gear - Grinds When Putting In Reverse
May 3, 2014
I have a 5 speed 99 Jeep Wrangler and when the car is running, it's extremely hard to put the car into first gear from a standstill. However, once it's in gear, shifting is fairly normal but still offers a little resistance. I feel like I have to wiggle it into gear. When putting the car in reverse from a standstill, the gears grind terribly.
Once the car is off, shifting is still difficult until I put it in reverse. Somehow, this "fixes" the problem and everything shifts smooth as a dream until I start the engine and then it's a 50/50 shot until it eventually fails later on.
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I own a 1996 XL Ford Ranger 2wd 5 speed manual.
Last week I had it in for some service, which included bleeding the clutch lines and new fluid.
Since then when putting it in reverse the transmission grids. It is also very difficult to get into first gear - I really have to shove hard on the stick.
Better Description of symptoms: When the vehicle is moving it shifts fine. When I come to a stop, put it in neutral and let out on the clutch, it is then very difficult to get back into first gear. If I leave the clutch in, fter I come to a stop, I can shift around to all the gears no problem. It's only when I let out on the clutch, then push it back in to shift into first is the difficult part.
With reverse, I have to move ahead a bit, THEN I can shift to reverse without the grinding noise. I talked to my mechanic who check to ensure the fluid was NOT low (it wasn't) and no air bubble existed in the line. After that was checked, he said the clutch is worn and has to be replaced.
Well, then, why wasn't it doing this BEFORE I had him bleed the lines? It started the day I picked the truck up from service. He recommends the following to fix the problem...
- slave cylinder
- new line
- disc
- preasure
I am asking why this would happen after he bleed the lines? Is there another problem that can cause this?
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when the jeep warms up the transmission wont shift out of second gear.it is an automatic.had solenoid packs replaced and no mechanic has an idea.external cooler has been mentioned along with replacing pcm.
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Just got done putting new clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder in my 89 Jeep wrangler and it still will not go into gear while the vehicle is "turned on", however it shifts into all gears while the vehicle is turned off. After bleeding the clutch/getting all the air out, for over an hour it still would not go into gear while the vehicle is running, only when it is turned off.
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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As title says, I have a 2008 jeep wrangler 6 speed manual transmission. It's popping/slamming out of first gear and falling out of third. Now when this thing slams out of first gear, it is generally with enough force to actually break you finger if your finger happens to be there. When it falls out of third gear, I usually don't even notice until I hear the engine rev because it's fallen into neutral. In both cases, it happens just a split second after letting off the clutch and starting to gas it. I have taken it to the dealer to be fixed. The first time they replaced the first gear synchronizers. The second time they replaced the boot.At the time I took it to be fixed (both times),it was just happening with first gear.
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My 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
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So as I was parking my car and I accidentally stalled it. So anyway I return to the car 20 minutes later to leave and when I start it up I notice the engine is idling at 2000 rpm and is making a loud hissing noise from the drivers side on the engine (I think). When I rev the engine it is slow to come back down to the 2000 rpm idle. When I put the car in gear and drive it, it likes to stay at 2000 rpm.
The car will accelerate without me pushing the gas pedal until it reaches 2000 rpm. Also when I shut the engine off, it sputters and coughs, almost like a backfiring motorcycle but rhythmically slowing down until it finally stops (around 3 seconds or so from when I turn the key off). The check engine light is OFF and the car is still "driveable" (I got it home) and typically idles around 900 rpm I think..
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I have a 99 7.3 F350 with 5 speed manual with over 300,000 miles. Grinds bad shifting into 3rd, and nothing happens in 4th. I think it is a S5-47-ZF. Is a 6 speed manual comparable to bolt up to bell housing?
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I've got a 2000 F-250 SuperDuty with the 5.4L V8, and a standard transmission and about 140k miles - just bought the truck several months ago. Trying to figure out what's wrong with either the transmission or the clutch. Here's the symptoms, any feedback is welcome:
1. If I shift too quickly into 5th from 4th, say 'pushing' from 4th to 5th directly, it grinds and chunks in every time.
2. If I shift slowly, 1-2-3, 4th into neutral, neutral and push right to line up with 5th, then into 5th, slight pause on each move, then it usually shifts into 5th silently and no problems ...but sometimes will grind just a tad.
3. If I shift from 4th into Neutral, leave it in neutral and let the clutch out then step on the clutch all the way and wait before shifting into 5th ...even if I wait several seconds (say 'close to 10 seconds'), it will grind every time ...a good grind that bugs me to do. I'm careful to avoid this.
4. Usually, if it grinds into 5th, I can shift down to 4th, let the clutch out and drive a short way and try again ...and it'll grind again. Best way to avoid grinding into 5th is to drive normally, and use the 1-2-3 'slight pause' method of shifting into 5th. This is what I do all the time, trying to make the tranny last as long as possible.
It's like the 5th gear synchro isn't working well, or perhaps the clutch is not fully disengaging? What's wrong? I wonder if the truck (haven't looked it up yet) has a hydraulic clutch and maybe the clutch is not fully disengaging ...pumping the clutch pedal sometimes seems to work, but most often doesn't. Sometimes, I have difficulty shifting back down into lower gears as well ... no grinding, but you have to double clutch just right to get it to go into gear (3rd, or 2nd).
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My 2002 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 is shifting hard from first to second. It has 120,000 miles on it. Should I do a filter and fluid change or just work with the bands?
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Ok I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
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I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
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I've had my new left over 2010 SE for couple weeks now. done 600 miles.
I noticed at first a couple times when shifting from 1st to reverse while parallel parking and still slightly rolling forward, the the gear grinded a bit, despite the clutch being fully depressed. I figured maybe with this manual tranny compared to others i've driven that you just have to be dead still before shifting into reverse.
But then yesterday morning from my driveway, from a standstill I shifted into reverse and it grinded too, again with the clutch fully depressed. Is this normal with these cars? I've driven manual gtis and a ford focus and never experienced this before? Is this a problem?
the fact that it's happened three times now within a couple weeks tells me it's not me being sloppy on the clutch, it is definitely grinding with my foot all the way down on the clutch.
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Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
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Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
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In the morning, my Treg won't start on the first attempt. If I just click the key to the right (to start the automatic ignition process) it just grinds and grinds then dies. The second time it will start. This has only happened the last couple of days. Also I should mention that it has gotten quite cold around here. Although the car is in a garage and my wife's Jetta fires right up.
I've also been having Insufficient Coolant problems. After one week of owning it I took it to the dealer and they topped off the coolant. A week later the Insufficient Coolant message came on again and I topped it off with about 1 quart (litre) of distilled water. It's been ok for the last day or so. I haven't seen any external leaks. I love my Touareg, but I really hope this isn't the beginning of a bunch of problems.
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I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
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I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
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