Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2007 - A/C Functions Well Only At Highway?
Sep 3, 2014
In April, took my wife's 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 to my local import repair shop to have the a/c looked at. I explained that it took about 5-10 minutes to cool, depending on driving conditions. They looked at it, checked the pressure and said it looks fine. No problems. It also wasn't a very hot day when they looked at it. So now I need to diagnose this problem so maybe I can fix it myself. To better diagnose, I have the following facts:
From a cold start, when the a/c is turned on and set to highest fan speed and coolest setting, both engine cooling fans do not spin. While driving- the higher the rpm's, the faster the a/c gets cool.Cools faster at highway travel. After returning from a drive and parked at an idle, the engine is hot, both engine cooling fans are seen and heard running while a/c is still on.
While idling in the driveway after a drive, when I decrease the a/c interior fan speed to 1 or 2, the engine cooling fans slow down. While idling in the driveway, when I turn the a/c off, the engine cooling fans slow further. A/C is ice cold when working, maybe 45 degrees. High and low pressure are correct. Engine temp is within normal limits. What part I need to repair or replace?
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My '03 JETTA stalled on the hwy while I was driving...it just lost power and the battery light came on. I had the blower on and the radio, and the lights as it was nighttime...i turned the key to the off position and turned it back on and the car started without hesitation...what could have caused that to happen?... Battery is brand new and vehicle just had a tune up.
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Have a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
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I have a 2007 Volkswagen Jetta with 78K miles. The brakes are squeaking, so I am assuming that the front brake pads need to be replaced. The front brake pads were replaced in 2010 (I don't remember the mileage).
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I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
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A while back, I bought some aftermarket rims for my '15 Golf to replace the sad 15" 195-section tires that came stock, and got 17 Sparco Pro Corsa rims with BF Goodrich gforce comp-2 all seasons.It drove great for a few weeks, (beautifully, even). Then I hit the mother of all potholes. My stomach sank the moment I ran over this product of poor infrastructure management. Little did I know I would be cursing this moment for months to come.The next day was when the vibration started. At this point, it started at 50 mph or so, and just got worse on the highway. I had to get 2 new rims on the right side, and the people at AAA said it was fine. It wasn't fine. Really, it wasn't any better.
So I took it back, and advised that I replace the two tires, because it was highly likely they had slipped belts from the impact. A couple more hundred dollars later, it was... a little better. But it wasn't back to normal. By this point I was done with AAA, and went to the dealer. They noticed that one of the spacers was installed crooked. Great. They fixed that, and didn't notice anything wrong until the next time I went on the interstate, when I noticed that, indeed, it still was vibrating. This time, however, it was just above 65 mph.This is where I should describe the vibration in greater detail. From 0 to 65, nothing is wrong.
But as soon as I hit 65, the steering wheel shimmys and the car whole car lightly shakes. It goes in and out, like it is being occasionally canceled out, and is not throtttle, braking, or turning sensitive.Back to the dealer it was, and of course, they could not find the root of my frustration. They did put the stock wheels on, and the vibration stopped. With the aftermarket ones, it still did vibrate, even with a rotation, balancing, alignment, et cetera.So, the question is: what the heck is going on? How can this be A) diagnosed and B) fixed without getting new wheels/tires or renting a chassis dyno?
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I'm driving my wife's 2002 VW Golf on the highway to build miles (it's at 84k). It's a manual with gearing that's at 3500 rpm at 70 mph in 5th gear, which seems pretty high. It had been doing fine on the highway, even though the RPM seems a bit high due to gearing, but it keeps me under 80 mph (highway is largely 70 mph). It burns oil, but not too bad, like a quart every 500 miles or so.
Recently, when driving at "high" speed (slightly over or near 70 mph), I get a plume of intense white smoke. After slowing down, the plume goes away, and I can continue near 65 mph.
After this happened today, I put on a code reader, and saw of P0159, air fuel ratio oxygen sensor issue. What causes the white plume of smoke, and what to do about it? Seems like the car should have more miles on it.
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My '98 Cabrio recently had the headlights both go out while driving at night on a curvy state highway. I pulled onto a side street and tried to figure out a way to be able to continue my drive home safely with lights. I found that by turning the ignition key to the right and jiggling the key I could get it to temporarily stay in a position to allow my lights to remain on.
In time, that solution was no longer an option and I discovered that by pulling the brights lever (it should be noted that it usually clicks into place) and holding it towards me, the lights would work, albeit on bright mode which tends to irritate fellow motorists. Strangely, the heater fan and wipers would only work while in this new found method of illuminated driving by releasing the brights switch and pulling it a second time towards me (remember, it doesn't lock into place as it should). How to repair this problem? It defies all logic as to why things on this car work or don't work.
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2004 Golf, manual transmission. The yellow check engine light comes on when it's driven on the highway for more than 10 miles or so (60-70 mph).
The light goes off on it's own after about 36 hours of suburb driving - 1-2 miles at a time on suburb roads, lots of lights and not going over 40 mph.
1) Why the light is coming on? No other signs of trouble occur - oil looks good, temp stays fine, no smells, etc.
2) Why the light goes off after 4-6 miles/36hours?
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I got a jetta 1.8t 2003 mk4 models.. Cars at 167km.. My cars oil light keeps going on when I am on low rpm, but when i come to a full stop & check my oil its basically at max.. And I don't know why it goes on? Ive changed my oil switch 4 times.. What can it be? Oil pump?? Or engine gone?
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Symptoms:
1. Code P0455-Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak).
2. During first few miles of driving, I hear a tick-tick-tick-thump sound coming from the rear of the car that is not related to tires/engine/speed/etc. The thump sound is pretty loud. The tick-tick-tick sounds like some type of piston-actuated pump. After >10 miles or so of driving, these sounds stop.
3. After putting gas in tank, car will not start without pumping gas pedal.
4. When removing gas cap, there is no 'rush of air' sound.
All of this started two weeks ago with no previous issues.
I know that the gas cap is one of the top items for this code but the seal on the cap looks very good. In addition, the local Volkswagen parts department stated that they've never ordered one before for replacement. I've heard of garages doing 'smoke tests' on the evap system-what the heck is that? How easy is it to find all of the little hardware that might be causing these issues
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2003 VW Jetta VR6: Headlights are not coming on...reliably, at least. Both halogen bulbs have been changed twice in the last 5 months. This is what I know of the headlight issue I'm having:
If the bright light indicator on my heads-up display is on when I start the car, I have no headlights. Switching between high and low beam in the car does not do anything when this bright indicator is stuck on...I have only found one fix...see number 2.
I get out of the car and tap on the front right headlight...the lights come on, but the front right is much brighter than the left. The lights are on the low-beam setting at this point. Only tapping the front light gets the lights to come on...high beams do work once I get the lights to turn on.
Once the lights are on, they do not reliably stay on...they might turn off while driving down the road. Pulling over and tapping on the front right light will get them to turn back on. (think this might be a loose wire issue? if so... i can't figure out where, or what needs to be done to fix it...)
Very odd thing... prior to starting the car, the bright light indicator is on...I pull up on emergency brake and it toggles the bright light indicator. I get out of the car and tap the light, lights are on, go back in the car and pull up on the emergency brake...the lights go out. Put the emergency brake down, the lights come back on.
I'm completely perplexed by this headlight issue.
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2 nights ago I was driving around the neighborhood. I was coming down a small hill to a stop sign where I could only make a right or a left. I proceeded to turn right and a dog ran in front of the car. I swerved to the left, managing to not hit the dog but run flat into the sidewalk. In the moment it felt like my bumper had just scraped the edge and it sounded like I had just scatched the bottom of the bumper. I proceeded down the street for about 2-3 minutes before my car started slowing down. The engine was still on but when I pushed down on the pedal to accelerate the engine just revved.
When I looked down to see if maybe I had knocked the car into neutral, I couldn't move the shifter and it appeared to be stuck in reverse? When I tried pulling my car to the side of the road I found that now my steering wheel was also locked up and could barely tug it enough to get it moved over. Finally, I made it to the side of the road and now my brakes were locked as well. I managed to stop it with the e-brake but still the shifter wouldn't budge to put it in park. I turned the car off to avoid damaging the engine. I didn't address this problem immediately so I came back the following day to check it out, and couldn't get the car to turn over. I had power, the battery was fine, the engine wouldn't even make a noise like it was trying.
Eventually I looked underneath the car and saw the oil leaking from what I believe is the oil pan? This is my first car and know absolutely nothing about how an engine works. Could this be a computer response so that the engine doesn't seize? Again, the brakes, the gear shifter,and the steering wheel are all locked and won't budge. I used the emergency release lever to realease the gear shifter and was able to pull it into neutral and start the engine but I had to hold the shifter firmly the whole time and if I let go it would pop back into reverse(but it still rolls forward like it's in neutral?). Is this something a warranty or insurance would cover? Hopefully this is just the oil pan because I do not have a fraction of the money to get my transmission or engine entirely replaced.. It's a 2013 VW Jetta 2.5SE with 45k miles on it.
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I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
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2001 VW Jetta wagon will randomly not start it up. Jumping it or popping the clutch doesn't get it going. I've made sure there is nothing draining the power and the battery is new and clean. My mechanic has run diagnostics on it to check the codes and kept it for a week to use it when he ran errands; it never gave him any problems. He wants me to give him a call if I get stuck again so he can hear what it sounds like when it won't start. A week later, it wouldn't start for me(of course it was on a Sunday). I waited an hour and it started. It does this whether it's been sitting over night or after using it for an hour or two. I'll go somewhere, park,and return 10 minutes later and it makes that sound like there isn't quite enough power to start (starter is new).Now it does have over 382,000 original miles on original motor, timing belt replaced a few months ago and the mechanic said it's clean and strong. I would love to know what to do other then getting rid of it!
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I have been having a problem with an oil leak around this sensor port in my Jetta, I'm not really sure which sensor this is. The sensor itself is covered with a rubber hood that covers the connector, when I start the engine, it blows this hood back, revealing the blue plastic of the sensor.
I have a 1997 VW Jetta GT with the 2.0 liter A series gasoline engine. ,
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I have an '04 Jetta TDI that stalls occasionally for the past 9 months. The stalling almost always occurs when I am stopped in traffic and then it restarts immediately. Recently it also stalled as I was driving down the street. Any clues? Seems to me like it might have something to do with the battery or alternator but I really don't know anything about diesel engines.
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I own a 2006 VW Jetta 2.5 (Automatic transmission) with 68k miles. I purchased the car new in Nov '06. Beginning in August '10, the car began stalling while in motion. As a result, I lose power brakes & power steering. The car has been in for repairs on 4 separate occasions. Currently, they have had the car for 3 consecutive weeks. They claim they cannot find a problem and have advised me to return to the dealership to pick up my car. I am terrified to drive this car. A VW mechanic has advised me that should the car stall on the highway again (as it has in the past) I may not be so lucky as I was previously (I was going uphill) and likely lack the body weight to apply enough pressure to the brakes to stop the vehicle while maintaining control.
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I've got a 2002 Jetta TDI that's been playing stump the mechanic for the past two weeks. I've had about $800 worth of work (most of which had error codes and were necessary), but given that the next suggestion is to replace the fuel pump at a cost of ~$2k, I figured it was time to get some additional opinions.
When the car is completely cold, the engine typically turns over a few times before starting up. Sometimes a few turns into seven or eight, but I've never had it not start. The problem comes when I've driven it somewhere (like to the grocery store, yoga class, or to get gas, to name a few) and try to restart it after my task is done. The warmer the engine, the lower the chance it will start. In it's most extreme, the car will not start at all, and I have had it stall out on me at stoplights if I do manage to get it started.
The car has had a history of intermittent hard starts in the four years I've had it, but nothing at all like this.
In the past two weeks, my mechanic has replaced the coolant temperature sensor, thermostat and seal ring, serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt, power supply relay, fuel pressure regulator and seal rings and the crank sensor. They've also been able to see that something is off about the fuel pump since they can see air bubbles in the fuel line, but thought I could push the car for a while without having to replace the pump.
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MK4 ... I have a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T with that weirdo tranny (09A for those in the know) with the psuedo manual tiptronic VWtransmission. I don't think the tiptronic has anything to do with this, but here's my problem.3rd gear has gone missing. The car will over-rev high in 2nd and then BAM into 4th (and not, using the Tiptronic does not ameliorate, nor does using the 2nd to 3rd to 4th on the automatic shifter).
Interestingly, when doing tiptronic the car will reflect on the dash that it thinks it is in/going thru 3rd, but obviously is not. HOWEVER, When it rains, 3rd gear re-appears.I would not say things shift like a dream, but certainly not like the aforementioned nightmare. Up shift and downshift occur on time with an occasional hard shift.
My thoughts are that this is due to solenoid(s) conking out. VW says it is lifetime ATF and makes changing it next to impossible for an ape like me. Is it definitely something (solenoid or something else?)?
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I have had power problems with my Jetta when driving into the mountains for the last 2 years. The first major repair I had done 2 years ago was to fix a fuel leak in the fuel injection pump. It seemed great driving around town for about six months. I took it to the shop again and this time they said the intake manifold needed to be cleaned. After that it seemed fine for another few months- then not. I took it in this time to the Volkswagon dealership. They found a hose that had a bad tear. That fixed the problem until I discovered a couple of weeks ago that once again I cannot go past 30 or 40 MPH up the hill.
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