Our 2001 mazda 626 has begun to run rough(shaking the car) when idling at a stop sign or stop light and once that begins when we push on the gas to move from 1st to second there is a huge jerk. If the air conditioning is on it is worse. It is an automatic.
View 3 Replies I drive (or more recently used to drive) a 2002 VW Jetta which has been having extreme difficulty running correctly during moist weather. Initially, upon start-up, I will note a severe problem.... it seems as if it's shaky, very shaky, and does not want to move. Upon trying to move it ignoring it's obvious signs, it does not want to take when I push in the gas....seeming to jerk or move incredibly slow. Usually feeling as if I can barely get it to move a 10 yards or so before being too nervous to push it any further. These issues seem to exist far far far more frequently in wet or moist weather (even a day or 2 after it has rained).
The car has always been well taken care of. What are the possible causes, then I might have some better luck requesting services upon calling mechanics around the area.... I am currently in college, away from home, and I absolutely cannot afford to get "nickle-and-dimed" by the dealership over every possible minor detail which could POSSIBLY need some tuning-up. It currently has just over 100,000 miles and has never had any major replacements.
I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
I have a 2002 Santa Fe V6. I'm getting the codes p1529, p0755, p0760, & p0765.
The car can start up & go, only for a short time. Engine will keep running, car won't move.
Kill the engine for 3 to 5 minutes, can start it up & go once again. Going 40mph increases the odds of the car not moving quicker.
When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
View 5 RepliesI ran into a new one with my 2000 1.8T Auto. When pulling out of my garage when I move the shifter from P to R, I felt a very strong jerk and the whole car shudders. Same from R to D. I drove straight to AAMCO which was the nearest repair shop. Although the drive was smooth (no additional noises etc) the acceleration was noticeably slow.
Recent work on the car:
-Timing belt replacement 3 months back.
-Battery replacement last night.
Engine light is on and came on 2 days back.
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
we have an 2006 Mazada 6 automatic transmission with the option of manually shifting gears. we have had it a year and the only maintenance is work on the air conditioner, oil changes, and new tires. when accelerating on an incline or sometimes during/after a curve as it shifts into 4th gear it makes a terrible noise and the whole car jerks. the best way I know to describe it is it feels as if the bottom of the car is about to fall out! when we first purchased it, it done this a couple times and basically quit doing it for a few months.
It seems to be getting worse though. we have never had a check engine light. we sent a can of "sea foam" through the gas tank and this seemed to work. a local mechanic examined it and test drove it but couldn’t find anything wrong with it. (of course it didn’t act like this when he drove it!) I called mazda dealership and they cant tell us anything without us bringing it in and charging us no telling how much just to look at it. no one seems to be able to figure this out….
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 Hatchback. We recently had new tires put on and an alignment both were needed pretty bad. Before the work the car had a pretty bad vibration to begin with. After the car ran smooth for about a week and then my described it having a vibration and thought something fell off. We took it back to the shop and they checked it over and rebalanced the tires and suspected that maybe a weight or two fell off.
The car ran fine again and then this past weekend I was driving and noticed that around 60-70 the car vibrated but not consistently, as it slowed from 70 to 60 it seemed to vibrate more. I also noticed around 25 that it had the vibration occasionally and could feel a slight jerking or tug to the left.
My guess is I have a broken or cracked motor mount since its not consistent at any speed. My reasoning is that at the lower as I accelerate the engine rpms are causing the jerking and as I slow down the decrease in rpms is causing the vibration.
I have a 2006 Mazda 6 that ive owned for a year now. It has this random problem tho.... when accelerating into 4th gear it makes a horrendous racket like the bottom is falling out of the car or something and sorta jerks. it has been doing this a long time. other than that it drives fine! i have no mechanical knowledge about cars so im totally clueless! this seems to happen when accelerating on an incline.
View 3 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
Well today I have moved on to the next project on my 02 v6 4X4 Santa Fe, which is the rough running. When I got the car, it had CEL with codes for misfire #5 and lean condition codes. I noticed the wires were in need of replacement (one had black tape wrapped around it) so changed the plugs and wires. The 2 hoses, one that goes between the valve covers on the pass side and the hose between the valve cover and throttle body on driver side were both cracked so replaced them along with a few other vacuum lines, just because I had access to them. Cleared the codes and it still runs like crap, but after 112 miles, town and highway driving, there are no CEL codes. When its first started it idles at 1500 and sounds like its missing and has very little power going down the road. When it warms up seems to run a bit better but still nowhere close to what it should. Equal compression on all 6 cylinders and has power to all 6 injectors and tested to be sure there was a pulse to them as well. Coil packs all tested well. the exhaust is in bad shape and don't know if that would have any effect on how its running.
View 6 RepliesA few weeks ago my car was running perfectly fine, i filled it up with fuel and then it started running a bit rough. Would drive ok but could feel it surging and if i backed off on the accelerator it would try stall.Also the fumes in the car were a lot stronger than usual. Got home and it stalled, started it up and was idling rough and blowing black smoke :/ no engine light has come on though. I did the typical thing and googled possibilities, the mojority said that it was the purge control valve so i replaced that with a new elantra one (part numbers were the same) and its still running rough We are now thinking it could be the oxygen sensor? Have checked vacuum lines and stuff for air leaks and cant find any. Unplugged the oxygen sensor while car was running and it made no difference at all.. If the oxygen sensor was working properly it would of affected how the car was running, right?
View 1 Replies2001 Santa Fe with 2.4 engine auto FWD 198k miles. When it is started first in the day, the engine sounds good and shifts well. After a few minutes and also after stops, first gear works well but then the following gears do not work well almost as if the engine and the transmission quit talking to each other. Traveling at 60 mph starting up a medium hill, the car downshifted and could not pick a gear. Although I pushed the pedal harder, the car did not respond rather continued to slow down. It acts like I lose 2 of the 4 cylinders in all cases. I replaced the spark plugs and two of them had oil on top of the plugs and also all around the threads. I replaced both coils thinking that one of them was the issue but no change has been observed. I replaced the throttle position sensor; no performance change. I do not believe it is the transmission as I have not notice any clunking, or bad shifting when starting out. While coasting at 40 mph in neutral and my pedal pressed at a certain position, the rpm gauge fluctuated from 3k to 3.6k many times for the duration of 20 seconds.
View 2 RepliesI'm considering a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8T with 135,000 miles that the owner is selling for $1,000.00 because it is "starts and runs but it's difficult get it accelerated and it's just running rough ". I haven't yet looked at the car or pulled the codes, but before I do, is there a common point of failure on these cars that leads to the symptoms described?
If it is something such as a crankshaft position sensor, then I could potentially have a good car for a lot less than the book value. If it's something such as the timing having jumped a tooth, then that's probably not something that I want to mess with.
This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
View 8 RepliesMy 03 Sante Fe is running a little rough and is stalling. My Mechanic said this P code was going to run me $1300. I'm not very mechanical , but this just seems very high. He said that aftermarket sensors would not work and only Hundai parts for the fix.........
2003 Sante Fe, LX, 3.7 l engine
When firing up the engine cold it runs really rough, smells very rich all the time, even warmed up. No codes set, fuel trims are within 5-10%. I've replaced the front O2 sensor, swapped crank & cam sensors, Map sensor (have lots of spare parts) & I'm sure there was more things I've changed but can't remember. I have a snap on scanner and everything is within parameters.
I have not checked the EGR valve or solenoids yet. It's a 2006 Santa Fe 2.4l 5 speed, new timing belt & balance belt replaced when I dropped this engine in. Is there a common problem with these that I could begin looking for?
My wife was using my truck and she felt it lost power and ran rough, so she pulled over can contacted me. We both are deaf, but I can hear some and it sounds really bad. So, I had it towed home and I recorded it.
2001 F250 5.4 V8....
I have a 2005 Mazda6 4 cyl manual transmission, purchased this past holidays. Last week the clutch disk totally wore out and the car was not moving at all... AT 68000 miles only. I am a new manual transmission driver and I think I might have been part of the problem. My mechanic, who is a family friend, has replaced already the clutch kit and he found out that the clutch disc was not only worn out but actually damaged, shattered on a side. So I got scolded by him and my father as they suggested that I damaged it by doing improper shifting. They suggested that I went from 4th or 3rd gear to 1st thus damaging the clutch disc for the car to totally stop moving.
However that's very unlikely in my opinion. I don't know if Mazda included some sort of safety feature in the transmission, but the car never let me go in 1st gear if it was already in motion, the shifter would lock if I attempted (found that out when driving in stop-and-go heavy traffic). I thought my problem was due to my foot frequently flirting with the clutch pedal in order to keep my driving and shifting smooth. In fact a few friends of mine who drove manuals in the past complimented me on my driving becoming so smooth in a short time. I also think that I bought the car with the clutch kit carrying some sort of damage on it, since in the first weeks of ownership, my practice period, I would often smell a burning odor when I was not doing things smoothly. Once I got better I never smelt the odor again until a few days before the clutch gave out.