Nissan - 370z :: 2011 - Dead Battery Suddenly?
Jan 18, 2013
I have a 2011 Nissan 370Z, base, 6 speed stick, just over 7k miles.On Saturday I washed the car, then took a short drive and put the car away unlocked.On Sunday morning the driver's door was locked, nothing responded to anything. The battery was completely dead.I charged the battery for a couple hours and the car started normally and ran fine the rest of the day and every day since.The dealer checked everything and found no problem.No, I didn't leave the lights on...they would go off automatically anyway.
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We got a certified used 370Z about 4-5 months ago from a Nissan dealership. The car was great until we happened to look underneath at around the 3 month mark and noticed that there was a TON of corrosion under the front passenger side. We had not even had the oil changed in the car- it was exactly as it was when we got it from the dealer. We took it back to them, and they said the battery had been overfilled and had leaked all over the car. Now it is in with them, and they say they have to remove the engine in order to sandblast it. They also happened to mention that they wish they had caught it before because if they had they never would have certified it.
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My 2013 has been problem free until this afternoon when I went to leave work - it simply wouldn't start, maybe a dead/low battery? It's a 2013 Prius II and just hit 40k this week and now due for service, so maybe I'll have them look into it?
Today was very hot around 100*, around noon I went to get something from passenger side and decided to crack the windows. Instead of going to the other side I reached across the console and pushed start which gets it into whatever mode it's called. Pushed the brake with a hand while pushed button again to turn on and operate window controls. Then I pushed start again to turn car off, which turned off display as normal. When I went to start it 5 hours later I got nothing.
No dash light up, dim dome light, door open light was on with door open so I knew there was some measure of power, I think I saw a check engine light near the door open light lit up at some point in my attempts too. I popped hood open to see where the battery was at, lol, it's not in the engine bay. In my frustration I finally started noticing a "buzz" sound of some part in the engine bay. Tried to figure out what it was - all I know is it's mounted on the firewall in front of driver, about knee height, behind/below the brake and power steering reservoir. I was kinda able to get my hand far enough to confirm it was buzzing/moving/active by touching a finger to it. Was able to get it to turn off with sever pushes of the start button - maybe the car was cycling the different "on" modes without turning on?
So I decided to try and jump the car. Friend who's borrowing a car luckily had jumpers - the weirdest looking jumpers I've ever seen. They were thinner gauge and super flexible, they were also two separate strands instead of being connected like normal jumpers. Anyways, I got nothing out of it. Was about to give up when someone id called showed up - used their jumpers thinking maybe the weird ones were bad. Immediately got a spark when I put the negative on the strut bolt, confirming I had juice.
Prius started immediately as "normal" (no idea how a hybrid starts after a jump...). Stereo was working, headlights, dome lights, windows - basically like nothing happened. I did notice the battery indication was a little lower than normal, but still had just below 1/2 bars. If it were low I'd imagine it would be lower. It never gets above 3/4 bars for me unless I'm coasting down a mountain for a while.
Dead/low 12v battery? What's the part that was buzzing?
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So recently my service engine light came on suddenly and I saw my tachometer acting a little weird along with my car vibrating slightly at stop lights. I know I should get this checked out because it's better to nip this problem in the bud early on before the problem worsens or starts to affect other parts of the car. My questions are,
What the problem is? I've read online that sometimes the service engine soon light comes on because of small issues that can be resolved by e.g. tightening the gas cap etc etc or it may be something that requires professional attention. I don't want to have to see a mechanic if the issue can be resolved by myself.
I've had terrible experiences with mechanics, what often happens is that I get charged for work done and the problem isn't solved. This happened once with an individual mechanic and I'll probably look at certified dealers such as Mossy Nissan. But that being said, the reviews of all the Nissan certified service centres in my area have horrible ratings and reviews so even going to them is a hesitation for me.
How can I protect myself from getting ripped off? What information should I ask for or tell them? Do i ask them for the codes when they run a diagnostic test and what should I expect to get charged for and what should I expect not to get charged for.
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2012 Azera with 29000 on the clock. Dealer replaced the battery last July. I am now having problems again with the battery going dead. Taking it back to dealer on Tuesday. I thought it was the 90evening it was only around 80 and the battery was dead again.
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I got the ECU Update Friday.. Today my 12 volt battery died. (got it started after a jump)..Any correlation?? Toyota service days no. Is there any kind of a warranty on the 12 V battery? 2011 with about 40k on it seems way low for the battery to die. No changes in driving habits since ECU update either...
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My Mom purchased a new 2011 Lexus RX350 last spring. The dealer installed a remote starter at the time of purchase (we live in Alaska). We've had a continuing problem with the battery going dead if the car has not been driven for a period of time (like 4 days). When she does drive it, it is for short trips (3 miles round trip to work). The original battery was replaced in fall with a heavy duty one, but the problem continues. Its been to the Lexus dealer (130 miles away) several times, but they claim everything is within the tolerances and "there is no problem".
They did note that the remote starter was drawing more than it was suppose to and reinstalled it. Their finding was that she was not driving it enough and recommended a battery tender, which has been installed. That works as long as she plugs it in daily. However, if a plug in is not available (like at the airport, hospital or if she is visiting) the battery goes dead after 4 days (even after it has been driven 100 miles).
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I have been out of the country for the past 3 months and I left my car at my parents place. I have a 2011 Sonata SE with Nav. I got a call from my dad saying that my car is dead (battery) and the doors have locked. He previously was able to jump the car since he was able to open the doors with the key fob remote. Now the doors will not open. I assume the battery has died beyond where the key fob can open them. I return back home this week and would like to be able to deal with this headache before I return and come back to a working car. How to get into the car or at least popping the hood without being able to get in the car? I've read up about other cars having a backup battery or special mechanism on the door handle for these situations so I would think Hyundai thought this through...
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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My 2009 Hyundai Sonata's dashboard readings suddenly went "dead" yesterday that is - the fuel gauge read empty, the speedo wasn't registering nor was the tachometer and the led display couldn't be altered? What might be wrong and whether I can do anything to fix it?
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2005 camry
The auxiliary power outlets suddenly went dead. I swapped fuse with no luck.
The ign switch provides power to fuse 25
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I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder and the Car Key FOB did a strange thing last week. Car is locked, keys are INSIDE the house and [TaTa] on its own, the FOB started to "beep" like when you click it to lock the car, made that kind of sound. Funny thing and wonder if this could be a coincidence, down the street, 8th of a mile away [or less] a house was being built. Could someone have had [maybe] an alarm system or two-way Nextel phone or SOMETHING [???] that could set it off? What can be done about it BESIDES enclosing the FOB in aluminum foil? We did that. Strangely, the beeping has stopped, which gives me the idea that it MAY have been what I suggested in the first place . . . something "signaling" it from wherever to go off!
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I have Nissan Maxima 1997, yesterday I was not able to start my car and so my mechanic replaced Starter. After replacing starter car is starting but now when I start driving it just starts for few feet's and stops suddenly. When it stops engine also stops, I can start car again and it again drives and than stop completely. This is happening continuously when I do reverse or fwd driving both. I suspect that this has something to do with replacement of Starter, during replacement my mechanic dismantle few things to reach the starter and I doubt that some part is not loose and not plugged in properly. I never faced this issue in the past.
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Took it to the dealer today to have the seatbelt replaced, which they did. As I was leaving the lot I noticed the airbag light was still blinking so I went back. Tech brought out the OBDII and ran a scan. No errors. Went through all menus and cleared everything only to realize his OBDII had the wrong 'code card' in it. So he went and got the right card and came back, ran it again, still no errors. Went through all menus again and cleared everything including what he called an old error but not one related to the airbag. As he was walking away to go get his manager the light... just went off on it's own. (Think it was mad at the tech, NOW I know why.. then I didn't.)
On the way home, on the highway, in Texas, going uphill... the accelerator suddenly becomes unresponsive. The car starts slowing down, 65, 60, in a 70 where everyone passing me is doing 80... So, I goosed the gas, revved it over 4k and ... the gear shifted and the car sped up... WTF?! Now this car ONLY has 83k miles on it. It was mint. No problems AT all, ran smooth as butter until I let the dealer touch it. NOW, it drives like gramma's jalopy and I can't for the life of me figure out what the heck the seatbelt has to do with the other issue but THAT drastic of a change is NOT coincidence.
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I have a 1991 Nissan Sentra with 151,427 miles. The past several months I will be driving along and suddenly the car will stop working and it won't restart right away. The following parts have been replaced within the past 2 years: 2nd transmission, new starter, new alternator, new fuel pump, new battery, rack & pinion steering, and a complete tune-up just last fall (2012). What would cause my car to suddenly lose power when I'm driving? I want my Nissan to come back to life!
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Totally stumped. Replaced the head gasket in Nissan 03 Sentra 3 months ago and car has been running great since with good power. Car suddenly completely dies after coming to a stop without any warning or any loud noises.
No compression in all cylinders. Seemed to be lots of oil in all four cylinders according to the bottom of the spark plugs. Pulled timing cover, timing marks still line up perfectly. Leak down test suggests valve problem.
Pulled the head and see all the exhaust valves are bent and the intakes are bent on pistons #1 and #3. (which is also odd as pistons #1 and #4 run in the same positioning) Question is how can all the exhaust valves suddenly get bent simultaneously with the timing chain still registering perfectly on the marks it's supposed to?
Things I've checked: I checked to see if the camshafts have sheared through the key, but they seem fine. No deep grooves found to indicate they slipped or anything.
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Came out one morning went to start car, daily driver, 180k, completely dead. Figured since battery was never replaced went to Toyota and got a new battery. Left on vacation came back 3 weeks later, installed battery, went to start car and still completely dead. No dome light, no brake lights, no head lights, no anything.
Checked battery, full charge under load. Tried to jump start (correct polarity) using my 4x4 Dodge Ram 2500
Never had a single issue, warning light etc. I am going to get my multimeter out on Monday and check the visible fuses.
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Well my two weeks of Touareg bliss just ended with a dead battery. I guess two weeks out of car is all you can expect. I know I'm not the first... but seems pretty unbelievable in that I have never had such a problem with any other car in 35 years.
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I got my V8 back from a dead battery for the 2nd time. As usual, they have not found the problem. They said that there isn't any battery drain and the battery holds a charge. This time I took it back to my dealer I purchased from, not that it means anything.
I know there have been a lot of talk about different things that are causing the problem/ fixing the problem, but I have noticed that it may not be some of the ECU's, Navi/radio, etc. but could it be that when the vehicle is actually running the Alternator may not be charging the system significantly while driving when things are turned on, as in multiple things like AC/Heater, Fogs, heated seats, etc at the same time? Reason is that I have noticed with my V8, if you turn off all of these things the voltage gauge reads very close to 14 Volts and when you turn them on, it drops/cycles to about 13.75-13.5 volts. The dealer loaned me a V6 Touareg and with all these things on, the Voltage Gauge read 14 Volts solid most of the time or pretty close to. Meaning that the Alternator may be keeping up with all the things turned on (Current Draw).
With my V8, if you have these things on and you are running around town starting/ stopping without driving it for a period of time the Alternator may not be sufficiently charging the battery and then when you park it like overnight with the normal drain on the system in off state you may not be able to start it. Could there be something there or am I way off? Since they are always looking at the battery and if there is any drain on the system when it's off, is the alternator keeping up with the Touareg's requirements when it is running?
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My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
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The battery went dead on my 2010 Prius and when I had AAA jump start the car the clock plus the display with odometer, mpg, hybrid battery graph etc, no longer light up. Everything else seems to work.
Is there any easy way reset it other than taking to the dealer? (Could a fuse have blown etc.?)
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